tonedef

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Can’t help but notice the gin and coolant cocktail there…interesting 👍

Only one lambda probe on mine, post cat. It’s not the same at the original OBD1 probe though, bought it new from VW at the time, sure I can locate the paperwork for a p/n if you need it?

As you say, all the brake lines are all 3/16" or 4.75mm, also it is correct that you have two lines to the rear. All the fittings are M10 x 1.0 except for the two M12 fittings on the pump for the left side of the car. See the photo for which port is for which line, the ports on my pump are not marked so I needed this photo to check my piping.

Still hanging around here, wouldn’t know where else to go after 14 years.

That looks colourful, love it! You’re right about the space between calliper and wheel rim, from experience you’ll have to keep an eye on tyre fitters when they fit balance weight or you’ll be wondering why the wheels jam up!

Thanks for getting the wiki restored, it’s like having an old friend back, great work there!

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I had a full paint job about five years ago, it wasn’t in bad shape except for a couple of the usual culprits, bottom of the driver’s wing, around the number plate light and some damage where it had been jacked at the front. It’s a decent paint job but not too extreme that I’m scared to drive it, my mate’s just had his Mk4 R32 painted and it’s absolutely stunning…but I wouldn’t even dare wax it!

Scaff stand, now we’re talking, love it!!!

Carefully is the word! I took a few years out of engineering years ago and worked for a rally team on Mitsubishi Evos, I got used to making it easy to get in there! I made myself some wooden ramps that get the front off the ground to start with, then side to side, jacking a couple of inches more at a time, keep going up a bit on each stand. Once there are two stands under the front the back goes straight up jacking from one side. I normally push it up some more yet, another hole on the stands at least, it’s easy from here as I can get the jack in the centre under the crossmember! I keep looking at my garage and wondering if I’d get planning permission to replace the flat roof with a pitched one…I could put a lift in there then. There’s a guy a few miles from me has one, that’s the proper way to do it.

Cheers mate, might as well make it easy to get under there and do all those jobs…I need a step up to get under the bonnet!

Went for a bit of a drive this morning, home, washed and assumed the winter position (hopefully the coming spring will be a bit more normal than the last one was). Just about to declare SORN and writing the winter jobs list!

Might be worth dropping lilfuzzer a pm, he had a few headlinings for sale a couple of years ago, might have one left.

As easypops has said, the servo needs to be the one without the pedal position sensor, I bought a new one from onlinecarparts, VAG p/n was 358 612 107 B. I'm sure that given time I'd have picked one up from a breaker but I was in a hurry at the time and all those turning up on eBay seemed to be rusted within an inch of failing. A second reason that the existing servo can't be used is that the mounting studs for the master cylinder are at 45 degrees whereas those on the Teves 20 master cylinder are horizontal which is something of a deal breaker. I also had to source other parts as my original kit was from a Golf, the ABS dash lamp from the Passat 3AO 919 235 AF fits into the opening in the dash and you can install the Corrado lens to make it look original although the airbag lamp needed disabling as mine was permanently lit, the loom for it would also be useful although I couldn't find one and made my own, easypops was luckier and managed to pick one up! You'll also need the correct brake fluid reservoir if you're using Golf kit as the original will sit at a strange angle and rub on the inlet pipe, I used the non-ABS version from various models, part number 358 611 301. You'll also need to swap out the rear wheel speed sensors as the plugs on the existing ones don't match the loom, I bought a pair of 1H0 927 807 D as they had the longest cable on them (the Golf loom lands a bit short under the rear bench) although the sensor part itself seems to be a bit too long and rubbed on the sensor ring when I installed, I made some temporary spacers to cure this but will address it over the winter, I might make some up by cutting and soldering the two flavours together.

A few years back I bought a new headlining after getting a bit carried away cleaning mine and leaving it saggy in places. I looked at this thing sat in the garage for months, terrified of swapping it, thinking it was going to be the job of nightmares. I finally bit the bullet one day and set to fitting the new headliner...and an hour later it was finished, one of the easiest jobs ever faced! But as fendervg says above, you’ll not need any of that for the aerial base, remove a bit of trim and you’re looking at it!

See if you can find an alarm fitter has a Toad Ai606 in stock, you’ll not go wrong with that. It was the first job I had done on the VR over 20 years ago, and it still works fine!

I was just about to tell you BR for the 12V…I grounded at an earth stud in the tailgate. But as you suggest, 31 is always ground of course!

If you have any joy with this we need photos! This is one of my jobs this winter.

If you look at the following pinout for the OBD1 VR6 ECU you'll see these allocations: Pin 40 TPS signal 1 Green/White Pin 41 TPS Power Black/Grey Pin 33 Sensors Ground (including Throttle) Brown Click I also have a Golf wiring diagram which shows the same wiring,: TPS pin 1 to plug T42 pin 28 Brown/Green which joins a group of other Brown/(Second Colour) wires before becoming finally a brown which goes to ECU plug T68 pin 33 TPS Pin 2 to plug T42 pin 29 Green/White to ECU plug T68 pin 40 TPS pin 3 to plug T42 pin 34 Black/Grey to ECU plug T68 pin 41 Admittedly it's not a Corrado diagram but I've swapped enough looms around to know they generally follow, it suggests your wiring whilst maybe not the neatest is correct as installed.

Congratulations on the new motor!