Wullie

That thing is absolutely horrendous. Looks like the windows are held in with duct tape, more wrinkles than an elephants hide and...........I've just been sick!!!!

In Word they all had different numbers. The ants must have screwed them up. Need any ants? ---------- Post added at 1:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 AM ---------- I am not obsessed with ants. Honest.

Replaced the passenger side outer CV boot today. I was going to take pictures but dropped thewheel on my camera. For anyonecontemplating doing this below is the way I did it. Pour a glass of wine in an old glass cause it's going to get dirty. (Optional) Sip regularly during the following. Remove hubcap Remove the great big nut on the end of the driveshaft. It's tight! Tip:- I use a socket, a short extension and a T-bar. Get a jack or whatever, put the socket on the nut then place the jack under the outer part of the extension and adjust it to support it level with the nut. This stops the socket twisting when you put some weight on it. Get an extension for the T-bar and leap up and down on it till the nut loosens. Do not completely remove it at this point. Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Next undo the six splined bolts that hold on the inner CV joint. Use a thin screwdriver to clean the muck out of the spline sockets on the nuts, it builds up and prevents the spline fully locating. Stick a screwdriver into the vent slots on the disc and let it jam against the caliper. This prevents the driveshaft turning when you undo the bolts. Undo the bolts. I use a twelve inch extension and a four inch one joined together, brings the ratchet handle out where you can actually turn it, tap the end of the spline bit into the bolt to fully locate it. You will have to remove the screwdriver to rotate the joint to get at all the bolts. Remove the big driveshaft nut. Undo the pinch bolt on the lower ball joint and lever the joint free. This can be a really annoying fiddly bit. This will allow the hub to be pulled toward you while pulling the driveshaft out of it. A bit of wiggling may be required. Lift the driveshaft free and relocate to a bench, table or driveway. Remove clips from old boot and cut it off. Give the inner part of the CV joint a sharp smackwith a hammer, it's held in position with C-clip on the shaft, it should pop off. Make a note of the position of the spacer and washer on the driveshaft. Clean out all the old grease and crap from everything. Repack with clean grease. I fill the inside of the joint first then use the driveshaft to force the grease in from the inside of the joint using the hydraulic pressure it creates. Slip the new boot onto the driveshaft and replace the washer and spacer then the CV joint. Tighten the clips then reverse the above to replace. Refill wine glass and sit and look for ants while feeling smug that you've saved a few bob.

Replaced a split outer CV boot. Was going to take pictures but managed to drop the wheel on top of the camera. It'll take more than superglue to fix it. Bu**er. I needed it for tonight.

Well I went down the market bar, met a nice little lady. [ATTACH=CONFIG]68821[/ATTACH] Had a few drinks and everything went well, so well in fact we went for matching tattoos. [ATTACH=CONFIG]68822[/ATTACH] Unfortunately, later on, the condom split and we may be looking forward to some of these. [ATTACH=CONFIG]68823[/ATTACH] Any advice welcome.

Well done that man. Bet you can't believe you were thinknig of selling it.

Husbandsays to wife, "My Olympic condoms havearrived ... I think I'll wear Gold tonight." Wife says, "Why not wear Silver and come second for a change."

Don't regret it, I enjoyed it. In fact I'm off down to the local market bar to see who/what I can pick up. [ATTACH=CONFIG]68768[/ATTACH]

Good grief, I go away for a couple of days and come back to find the forum has turned into some kind of pork porn site!!!!!!!!!

Coming home from the Pittenweem Arts Festival today spotted a Blue one of unknown flavour. Reg started G50 I think, on the A92 going east out of Glenrothes at about 1:30 pm. Sorry it's a bit vague but I had been celebrating most of last night and much falling down juice was consumed.

Welcome to the forum.

Age is just a number, life is a state of mind. Though some people say my mind is in a heck of a state. Anyway, I defy anyone to drive a Corado and not feel younger.

Next time it does it gently touch each relay, you should feel it vibrating.

65 and been owned by my Corrado for almost 14 years. Getting in it keeps me young.

Remembered the other one, but it seems to be down. http://www.wagenstad.com/ At least my memory seems to be bearing up.

There's a separate scroll bar down the right hand side of the patrs number window. Not immediately obvious.

As title really. Coverage all qualy sessions from today and race on Sunday.

This is useful http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?49295-Online-Corrado-Parts-Catalogue-(not-VAGCAT-or-ETKA) There was also another site but the link was on my old PC. Drat.

I feel like chicken tonight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, but I disagree. Had my valver (KR) for over 12 years and have had minimal trouble with it. As with any car a bit of preventive maintenance works wonders. Any Corrado is an old car now and things will go wrong. In fact, due to the KR being less reliant on electical engine management it is probably less prone to problems than later examples, no MAF, an ignition module rather than an ECU. Prepares to be shot down in muti coloured pretty little flames.

Just in from work, knackered.

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?45452-Replacing-the-heater-matrix-non-canada-style-max-pics Read the whole thread before starting.

On a scale from one to ten? How long is a piece of string. It's not too difficult to be honest. Basically its a metal jigsaw, but, you get a manual to tell you how to go about it. Start with the first instruction and go from there. The biggest problem you will come across is stuck bolts though taking the head off the only ones that might cause problems are the exhaust manifold. Plenty of WD40 and allow it time to soak. Cylinder head bolts are splined heads so you would need to get the proper bit for that. Also handy are a roll of masking tape and a marker pen to mark stuff you take off or disconnect, combine that with a camera, phone or digi to take pics before and after removing bits. If you do have a problem there's always this forum. The last time I did head work on mine, new stem seals, it took about three to four hours start to finish. First time I did a head was many moons ago and I was terrified. Wondered what all the fuss was about when it was back together and running the next day. I would suggest you go for it, you will be pleasantly surprised.

On a slightly more serious note, have you spoken with the parents? May be worth a polite, considered conversation. Otherwise I have an army of trained ants.

Amazing anybody got out in one piece. http://www.carbuzz.com/news/2012/2/23/Ferrari-F430-Obliterated-in-Horrific-Car-Crash-Passengers-Survive-7707473/