fendervg

You need to trace the path of the spark then - if the starter turns, then there should be current going to the ignition system. This is usually battery/alternator>ignition amplifier>ignition amplifier>distributor>spark plug wires>spark plug. Or something like that. Do a test with a spark plug to the block as described above first on each plug - this will save you having to work the other way and will rule in or rule out the whole system. If you don't have a spark at the plug, work your way back up the line. You may have a coil pack instead of a distributor, depending on engine version. A faulty crank position sensor will also cause a no start scenario, even with fuel and spark present. But check for spark at the plugs first, then at the distributor etc. someone else will no doubt correct me on this!

Too much to be worth counting!

What relay number is it? Relays are generally cheap to replace, so could be worth a shot. If you want to test it you'll need the wiring diagrams to find out what's what. I have diagrams for the 1993 VR I can send you if you want to PM me your email address - some of them are in German though! And they are not fun to read and trace, so it might be easier just to replace the relay as a first port of call. Maybe someone on here can even lend you a known working one for a test. Did you check that you are getting current through the loom to the seats? It's more likely to be a break in the wiring somewhere.

Braided lines will help - I have them on mine - but the main thing they do is stop the dreaded MOT/NCT fail on "bulging brake lines". I've got 288s with VAG calipers, discs and pads, braided hoses and ATE Super Blue Racing fluid, and have pressure bled the system countless number of times, and still not entirely satisfied with the feel. They are much better than standard, but there is relatively long pedal travel until the pads bite and you need to stomp on them to brake in a hurry. I think it's about as good now as it will get with those components, and have decided to live with it. I want to keep my Speedlines, so don't have the option of going to larger calipers such as 312s as they won't fit. Some on here have converted to the ABS system off a Mk3 Golf, to solve both ABS and brake feel issues, but it's a big job and I can't comment on it. Try driving a Mk1 GTI or Mk1/2 Sirocco if you really want poor braking! They used a lever to the master cylinder on the other side of the engine bay for the right hand drive conversion.

Cheers

Hi Chris - the one I'm looking for is the kick panel/footrest to the right of the accelerator pedal, between that and the door.

I just use VW's own 288mm discs on the front. No problems with them so far. ATE do them as well, and I think you can even get 288mm discs with the non-corrosion coating on them. I'd see no point in grooved or slotted discs for increased braking performance unless you are running huge calipers and performance pads and do a lot of track days. All they tend to do is create more brake dust and wear faster. Some I've seen are also of questionable quality and are liable to crack. The real limitations of the system are the pedal to servo/master cylinder mechanics which limit the amount of force you can exert on the disc and gives a spongy feel to the brakes, even with 288s, although they are definitely an improvement - at the end of the day they will never match a modern car, being a 20+ years old design.

Test it with a multimeter - try on the plug from the loom first - I'd say one wire is 12 or 5 volts with the ignition/engine on, one is an earth, and the other one for the fluctuating signal back to the speedometer. Usually the outside pins are voltage in and earth and the middle signal, but I could be wrong. What colours are the wires? I don't have any wiring diagrams handy at the moment. Earth is usually brown or brown and another colour. Your sensor is probably part#191919149D, the others seem to be for automatics and for the VR6.

Are these the shelves that sit under the passenger and driver' side including the fuse box cover? I'm actually after the driver's footrest part in grey if you have it in good condition? Mine has a crack in it.

What car do you have? I think some are electronic and some cable driven? The family album shows two different systems - gear driven by a cable from the gearbox up to chassis # 50-L-035 000, then electronic after that. The electronic version uses a two-pin sensor. My guess is either the cable is old and is sticking (WD40?) or you need to check the wiring and earths for the later system.

Great news - very interested in these as I'm collecting parts for a full body respray.

There's less every year - if you do a search on here this topic comes round every six months or so. Many cars (especially VRs) have been bought up and broken in recent years, hence the relative availability of second hand parts on ebay and on the forum. There were never that many 16V and 8V cars sold after the VR came out. In fact, for rarity the 8V cars should take the trophy after the Campaign and the Storms. G60s are just that much older, so that fewer make it into retirement. Then there's always the once off ones that VW made like the Corrado estate, 16V G60, convertible etc. I'll leave you to find them on the Interwebs.

Stainless is not strong enough as a rule for this sort of thing which is why I think you can only get locking nuts, as the other 4 will still be there to hold the wheel on. You can get nice plastic bolt trims if you are looking to tidy it up.

The central electrics are slightly different on a Corrado to a MKII as far as I know. The Golf got the CEII set up around 1990. You should be able to get it to work though, once you work out all the sensors. My old Audi Coupe Quattro also had a digital dash option (the Ur versions had one as standard) and many people have successfully retro-fitted one. My only problem with them is that they are not that great to use in practice as the digital dash technology was nowhere near as advanced then as it is now and it's a hell of a lot of work.Best of luck with it and if you need any wiring diagrams give me a shout as I have quite a lot of them.

Check the wiring continuity to the sensor with a multi-meter. Also you could try taking it out and putting it in hot water or somewhere warm and see if the resistance across the pins on it changes (this is assuming it has two wires to it, it's been a while since I've had mine off). It would be the same principle as testing a thermostat or coolant sensor. Hopefully it's not the dash unit that's at fault.

This my new plan B. Non return valve bought on eBay and some 8mm fuel injection hose. Refurbished injectors should be here next week. [ATTACH]82342[/ATTACH]

All I'm saying is that just because it doesn't have VAG stamped on it doesn't necessarily mean it's not as good. I've had plenty of faulty parts straight from the dealer. Just be careful what brand you choose, and as always, you get what you pay for.

VW design and specify the parts, or buy them off the shelf - they are then made by the likes of Boge, Sachs, Lemforder, Hella, Bosch etc. They are stamped with a VAG logo and part number and sold by the dealer network in a VW box. There is slightly higher quality control in this process because the car manufacturer will require additional checks. Exactly the same parts are then available as "OEM" from the supplier themselves. This is usually after a period of a few years and known as aftermarket or third party or spurious parts. Karmann did not make every single part for the Corrado in their factory, and neither were they all made in Wolfsburg. In fact many VR6 parts are also found in other makes that use the same or similar engines. Some forum members even found wings on their cars that had "Made in Mexico" on them.

The point I was trying to make was that the "original" oil filters are not made by VW anyway either - the likes of Hengst and MANN are OEM suppliers to VW - the filters are just re-branded and put into VW boxes. Provided you get one from a reputable supplier the quality will be the same. I have a Hengst one here for the VR and it's marked "Made in Germany". You just have to make sure that the filter is made by a reputable supplier. The same goes for suspension parts, bushes, radiators, electrics etc - none of these are made by the car manufacturer themselves - they are made by someone else according to the car manufacturer's specifications. You will sometimes get a longer warranty period and have a better chance of replacing a faulty item if bought straight from the dealer though. As for parts from China, there are two kinds - very good copies of excellent quality at a great price, and then you get absolute cr*p which is dirt cheap. Practically all parts are made in Asia nowadays due to economies of scale.

Agreed.

Looking to make a profit on the back of the Wheeler Dealers episode soon to be aired, I'd say. It must mean mine is worth the same then ;) I'll have to show the ad to my insurance company. Lovely colour though.

I love it when an electrical fault "fixes itself"! - you'll have nightmares trying to track it down though if it's intermittent. At least it's all working again.

Yep, a faulty CPS will mean the engine won't start at all - that might not be it but it's the first thing worth checking.

I meant to say is the crank sensor you replaced a known good one? Did you test it before fitting and was it new or second hand?

OK - maybe that's why Heritage take so long to ship parts over from Germany (perhaps they do a bulk shipment), whereas a dealer can back order from Germany in 3-5 days over the dealer network. Ah well. Once the oil filter is good enough quality I wouldn't be too worried about whether it has VW-Audi stamped on it or not - they tend to get pretty dirty quite quickly!