seanl82

I don't think a huge amount, though I can't remember specifics tbh Rob. Have a search, it was a thread on here a while back iirc.

The E30 blades aren't flat, so give a bit more of an OE look. The benefit is in the spring tension on the arms, so they hold it to the screen better than the standard Corrado ones.

They aren't shouty when your just cruising at steady speed like cone filters, but you don't half get a great sound when you plant your foot! As far as intake temps go, I'm not sure on how much it really makes a difference, but there was a back to back test using a standard paper in the standard air box vs a K&N cone vs the BMC. The BMC gave a bit better power output than the paper panel filter, and the K&N actually reduced power. Would I pay full asking price for one - probably not. I got a decent second hand one in the end with a spare filter, mounting bracket & the intake adaptor/coupler hose for £100 which I was reasonably happy to pay.

The ratchet type are fine as long as you don't over compress them. You'll need them to remove your springs anyway, as the station won't be any good until they're off the car (may be wrong but I don't think they'll fit under the arch). You only need to take up a bit of slack from the springs when removing them to stop it pinging off when you remove the lower securing bolts, so I wouldn't worry mate. The station looks great and would certainly help when getting it all back together before fitting, but its probably a bit overkill unless you're doing it very often.

ISV not exhaust muffler. I think you can still buy them new, although iirc they're mega expensive for what they are. I'm sure if you ask around you should be able to get a decent second hand one. If you've got a vac leak around there, it certainly won't run right though.

Welcome along Ian. There are a couple of Irish folk on here I believe. I know prices of Corrados in Ireland are pretty steep due to the shear lack of them, so I doubt you'd have much luck unless you get the ferry over. Good luck with your search either way, I'm sure you'll enjoy the drive!

Such a shame Jim, but understand with what you've gone through. Never say never with regard to getting another, but hope to see you around still in future. Best of luck and don't get too swept away with the Fiesta! :lol: :thumbleft:

Doesn't sound good I'm afraid. Water pump is would have to be pretty knackered to cause it unless its simply not pushing any water around. Yes its cam belt removal to replace. Should be changed with every belt replacement anyway really. I can't remember where the thermostat is on these engines but unless it was jammed shut (default position is open when they go as the spring tends to force it open), so unlikely its causing this pressure, but its relatively cheap to replace so worth a shot. Its obviously pressurising quite a lot and if there has been no work on any of those areas recently, it can only point to failure of one of the components or head gasket.

That's not from Fareham is it!? Looks very much like one I was thinking of buying a couple of years ago judging by the houses and car. That was sherry, as is this one.

If you have a look in the wiki section, there's a guide to cleaning it. Includes arms and motor including brushes. Yeah that's very hot oil temp, and I wouldn't advise running for any extended time until you've got to the bottom of the problem. I'd replace thermostat and water pump as a matter of urgency, giving the whole system a back flush and fresh coolant, then go from there mate.

Looks great! Nothing a good cut and polish with a good layer of protection shouldn't sort out though. 3 Months is pretty regular. A good wax/sealant should keep on top of it if you do it yourself though. Some very good products on the market and a couple of hours dedicated to cleaning and detailing the car every month or 2 should see you in good stead. Winter months take their toll, but summer (although aid the fading process of paint) should give you the opportunity to protect it. The wax/sealant acts as a sacrificial layer so provided its applied regularly, you should be able to keep that deep red shine without much bother! :thumbleft:

I want to be a brand snob and say I'd rather push a Volkswagen that drive a Ford, BUT, those are some extremely impressive and nostalgic cars indeed. I must admit, I'd seriously think about swapping my car for either of those, and they're probably worth more than twice what mine is too! Best of luck with your newest venture, although I'm sorry I can't offer any advice. :thumbleft:

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your purchase! First off, was it the coolant temp (gauge) or oil temp (MFA) that was reading 105? Coolant would be pretty high, especially at this time of year, but oil temp would be pretty much bang on. Spoiler on later models should come up at around 56mph, (as opposed to 46 for pre 93 model cars). Mechanism may just need a clean as its slow to come up and you didn't notice as you were rising through the revs! lol. Where are you located? Can't be too far away if only 150 miles from Cornwall? Worth getting a diagnostic scan if you're worried about loss of power, could be a simple sensor or as you say, an exhaust leak, but always nice to get the diagnostic scan to know theres nothing wrong on that front. Look forward to any updates, All the best!

Yeah there should be a small hex screw on the rail. Never really wondered what it was for, but I suppose that could well be it!

This is quite possible too. As the car has been sat for so long, its possible that the injectors have become quite gummed up.

VR6 only has the in-tank fuel pump so thats correct. Maybe worth replacing the fuel pressure regulator. They're not too expensive although I've not heard of them failing to let anything through, its a possibility. Also worth checking you're getting 12v to the injectors to see if they're operating correctly. Other than that, its pulling the rail with injectors still in, and sticking each in a bottle whilst cranking to see what happens.

Yes mate, both exactly the same.

You sure it's an early wing you're after? I thought the purpose of the later wings/styling was to accommodate the vr6 having a wider track.......

I didn't think it mattered what you have engine wise on a pre (March 91?) as it's before cats became a legal requirement in the UK. Worth googling and doing a bit of research into the subject though. What was the level recorded?

Only 1 car I can really compare that too, and that had a couple more owners than yours, and its being advertised for over £20k!!!!! Get amongst it!!!! :thumbleft: Mine is agreed value of 7k, although I'll probably try another k on top after the next instalment of refurbishment.

Lots on ebay, or have a look in the breaking section on here. If you're after a brand new one, I'm not sure if they're still available, but try VW heritage or VW classic parts. If they are available new, make sure you're sat down when you check!

You'd need to uprate the turbo from an AUG. The K03s is a smaller Turbo than the K04 used in the BAM (and the other 225bhp stock cars), so if you're aiming high to start with, better to get something originally designed for higher output as I very much doubt the K03s would be capable.

It doesn't need to be a G60, any narrow track (4 stud) will do. You'll need a lot of modification even from a BAM to achieve 350 too. I think about 285 - 300 is the limit without internal work, so not much saving from a VRT.

Wow, lucky escape there by the sound of it! What size fuse are you using for it? It should blow long before a relay melting if it's drawing that much current.

Rob, yeah it's sits at a bit of an angle. It kicks in on the passenger side a little bit mate.