seanl82

Some very good points raised there Jim. I had wondered about it, but as you've mentioned I knew there would be some spillage/leaks at some point that would necessitate removal of cooling system parts as I'm always playing about with something (well, I used to be anyway!), so it didn't seem very economical due to that.

I think the early trim is smooth whereas the later trim is textured slightly. I'm sure someone will know for sure though!?

He changes his username every so often too. Beware!

I've got 288mm on the front which will fit behind standard wheels, so there is miles of room now! You'll get 312mm disks behind without a problem.

Have to agree on both counts with this.

17x7.5 ET35 is what I have with a small drop and it's absolutely spot on. Good stance imo and never once had rubbing issues, even with 2 in back and a boot full. Can't offer any advice on 8.5 ET20 though sorry.

Hard to tell from the photos but looks in good knick, so a great price really!

Wow, that was quick!

Can see that...... Its a summer anti-freeze, so won't have an all year round temperature range - therefore very unlikely to the correct VW spec. The G13+ coolant is pretty cheap from the dealer (about £10 for the 1.5 litre bottle iirc), so its worth just using that as you know the anti-corrosive properties are correct as well, and it'll last you a couple of years before you have to do it again.

I just don't think they've ever been refurbished before tbh Jim. They quickly deteriorate when curbed and water gets behind the paint. Anyone know the car? CCGB membership card in the photo!

You'll need a 555 timer or something similar with various resistors and LED etc to get it to work. I used to have a wiring diagram with all the values required (as I may have had to do it myself some time ago), but since I got it working and it was on an old laptop that died, I haven't bothered trying to find the info again. I got someone at my old workplace to design it for me, and I wired it all up with a small bit of biscuit board that fitted inside the light unit. It came on for the 3 seconds about every 2 hours or so as its essentially on a loop.

Same as any other car really, not great tbh. Possible stem seals or piston rings/bore wear. More likely stem seals though. Is it more noticeable when cold, revving, or coming off throttle?

I've re-used them on a couple of cars now. Just use thread lock when re-fitting.

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?53172-Genuine-vw-corrado-brake-lines-remanufactured Just PM him with which pipes you require. He's still about and made some up for someone fairly recently, though I'm not sure how often he actually checks in on the site. His profile suggests he's been on in the last hour though!

Bear in mind that the paint is 20 odd years old now too, so unless it's been cut back and well protected recently, it'll show some signs of age/fading. Inside the boot where it's not or has less lacquer is best for Base coat colour, and door shuts where you'll get a good idea of what it was like at factory.

New? If the OP doesn't want it, I'm interested.

I think they're obsolete now. I'm after one too.

Chris, think its come down around a fiver for 5L iirc. Discount code is 'CORRADO'

The cables do run close to the downpipe, but should run under the heatshield just underneath where you can see. Not much you can do really. Have a look at this first. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?32297-gear-linkage-adjustment&p=415342&viewfull=1#post415342 There is also a circlip on the side of the shifter on the pivot arm, pull up the gaiter and surround, and ensure this is in place. Cant really help with the tensioner bolt, but there are later style bolts for use on mk4 Rabbit engines which can be retrofitted. I'd go a little further though, as its the top tensioner that fails most. You can use the Mk4 tensioner too and its pretty cheap. Only thing is you'll have to remove the top chain cover. Details on how to do it can be found here http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_clutch_and_timing_chains_replacement_part_1.html This also shows how the top tensioner can wear, and I've seen them in even worse condition than this before so definitely worth replacing if you're not going the whole hog and doing all the chains etc. You'll be able to see down to the lower part too and inspect for any further damage.

Congrats! Now onto the next in what is likely a long list of problems we all suffer with! lol.

Some do, but only if you remain with them. It doesn't transfer over to another company. Some also offer to mirror your NCB on your first car (if its a second car). In all honesty, it doesn't seem to make much difference regardless. I've consistenly been quoted around the £200 mark for a classic policy with agreed value. That obviously depends on their own made up risks etc and your postcode.

Front (for VR6 anyway) are still available from the dealership. This is what I used, although with both top plates it worked out at over £80! Rears are obsolete, so the next best offering and which I believe is what VW use if genuine parts aren't available, are Lemforder. I think it was AVS / VW Spares that I got them from when I replaced mine last year.

Yeah the later cars wheel arches are flared further out. Grille, headlight, slam panel, front bumper, fogs & indicators and the door handles are also different.

Probably my favourite wheel on a Corrado. Look incredible on, great choice! :thumbright:

Haha, yeah Fired up garage, he's still there with his crazy eyes! lol.