seanl82

Yep, slide handbrake handle forward - there may be a retaining tab on the bottom at the back of hte handle. The cover then slides forward over the mechanism too mate.

I wish I would have kept it now tbh Rob, would have been perfect for the commute! I made it sound worse than it was in the first post(unintended). Just checked my photobucket account, and I've got more pics if anyone is interested and it looked pretty nice after I'd given it a quick machine polish. Mine was in far worse condition when I originally bought it!

I know what you mean mate. Not to the extent of yours, but just spent almost the purchase price doing a full service, cambelt and front pads on the crappy Pug I bought! I can't use it now either for a few days and I'm having to use the Corrado for commuting as when I replaced the drive belt, the slight bit of extra tension caused the idler pulley to start screaming like a pig! ECP/GSF etc want £80 odd for it! Febi one on ebay for £31 but wont be with me til Wednesday.

My "basic" tool kit takes up about a quarter of the boot space! lol. I always carry it in the Corrado "just in case"! Funny thing is, I've never had a fault with it in 3 years!

Well that was a lucky escape! Well done for investigating so quickly, I'm sure many would have written off the engine after suffering similar to this.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1993-VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-VR6-AQUA-BLUE-12-MONTHS-MOT-SOLID-EXAMPLE-/182269011716?hash=item2a70146704:g:2NcAAOSwknJXzUj6 Should have held onto it for 18 months longer, would have doubled my money - Well, quadrupled it for what I originally paid actually! Ad is almost cut and pasted from the original, and there are even a couple of the original photos I put up! Doesn't look like anything has been done since I sold it either apart from servicing and a new ticket. I don't mind though, hope it sells. It wasn't a good example tbh, but solid enough and ran very well for anyone interested. Wings could do with replacing due to very slight rust, especially the one I rattle canned.

Just the bolts and drains in the 4 corners Hasan. Undo the rear ones first working forward as the rear sits on brackets either side. Saves you having to hold the whole front end up whilst removing the rear ones. Use blue 3M detailing tape. Perfect for not leaving sticky stuff behind. :thumbleft:

Not sure it'll reach to be honest. It's 2 wires though so you should be able to repair it easily enough mate.

They're not particularly effective. It's either off for 90% of the travel, or on at full brightness when jammed to the stop. The whole switch is a common weak point, but there are decent aftermarket alternatives from a guy that does them on here (forgot his username). Do a Google search for Corrado headlight switch and you'll find the thread.

Check the interior dimming roller is set fully up on the headlight switch first mate. I've done it before and scratched my head!

Cleaned it inside and out for the first time since Harewood! :eek: Got to use it for work again for the next 3 days whilst I await delivery of a new aux belt tensioner for the Pug.

Outside air temp sensor?

Yeah JMR have plenty of experience with VR6s too. Have a surprising amount of Corrados in for work ranging from general servicing and repair to full on restorations. Have a look at their website, they post up pics of cars they're working on quite regularly (with owners approval of course). TSR had a very good reputation a few years back, then all of a sudden it went downhill very quickly. Think I remember reading they were bought out and thats when the problems started. Quality of work nose dived, and they soon disappeared. I have heard they're making a bit of a comeback though. Either lessons learned, or they've been taken over again.

Try to tape or bung up any open hoses/waterways Rob. And refit the sump with the old gasket, as moisture may get up inside the block. I know it should have a light film of oil on most things, but even the slightest bit of surface corrosion on something internally could have knock on effects further down the line. Other than that, should be fine mate.

Looks cracking that mate, hope you have a great day! :thumbleft:

Higher than what? I don't know whether its distance over speed or time, so unless you spent considerably more time on the motorway then it may reflect this. Use MFA setting A, and reset it regularly at different speeds to see if its roughly matching from there. That'll probably give you a better idea overall.

Programmer modules are generally common failure points on older machines.

I think £15-20 is reasonable. Pretty sure you can buy the newest ones from dealers for around this price so similar wouldn't be extortionate

You need indicators on the side for MOT. Your best option if not fabricating sometimes for the wing mirrors, you can get the US ones that sit flush on the outer side of the front bumper. Since you're chopping it up anyway, may as well do that! Good luck with the project, sounds good! :thumbleft:

Pm on way bud.

The diseasals ( 130 & 150bhp) should have GT TDI, none had a GTI badge as standard

Haha, welcome back, though I can't say I've missed your "witty" remarks. :lol:

Hey Rog! We can have another little get together now I'm back down this way! Saw Tris today Funnily enough and thought of you! Welcome back mate, will have to pop round for a gander. :thumbleft:

I did my front pipes a while back using the same kit Martin. Had no problems but did a couple of trial runs on some small cut offs first. Just experiment with how far you pass the pipe through and compare it to the original pipes.

Behind where the manual switch for the spoiler is? If so yes it's immobiliser. Multi pin one is spoiler control module.