seanl82

I dunno, I've heard strange things about Chris & Matt with regard to sausage though.............. :scratch: :lol:

The list could grow and grow tbh Chris. If there's nothing that springs to mind or looks in obvious need of replacement, leave it alone unless you're prepared to spend considerably more time and money getting it near mint!

Tis true, very easy job. Made easier for a garage if you remove the parcel shelf supports too, and shouldn't take them longer than an hour or so provided you have all correct parts needed.

VW still stock them, and you could get them zinc plated to prolong their life. Its relatively cheap I believe. My plan is to use stainless items on all fixings that aren't load bearing, and get either the existing ones plated if they're in reasonable condition, or get new from VW.

Smaller one is for ESP on the US spec cars iirc, so not connected to UK models. If all seems well at the moment, just monitor it over the next few days to see if it re-appears. If it does, get it scanned as codes will be stored so you should be able to find out what is causing the problem.

The light should still go off after a few seconds even when ignition on but car not running. The system does a self test as soon as it gets power, and should go off if it passes. If you push your foot down on the brake when you turn the ignition on, you'll feel it pulse as the valves inside the pump operate. If the light stays on, you can test the resistance of each sensor without removing the wheels, and you can visibly check the ABS ECU plug/pins as they often get water damaged. Other than that its best to get it scanned for faults using VCDS. Where are you located? Maybe someone close by can offer to help you out?

Yeah I'd say a connection problem to start. Pull the light unit out, you'll probably see it disconnected. Its probably been done to hide a fault though, so be prepared for further snags.

I don't think you'll be able to completely cure it Rob, as yours lives outside iirc, so when its when due to rain or you washing, the disks get that surface rust very quickly indeed. As soon as you begin braking it always creates some dust, but shouldn't be excessive. Pagid are the I've found for price, quality and performance by far.

Yeah, c&r enterprises do goodridge set too - also on ebay, and it's worth doing the full set as it'll give a weak link in the ones that aren't done, and accelerate wear.

I wouldn't bother mate. Drilled/grooved disks just create a lot of dust, so unless its track specific and with pretty big power, its just not worth it. Same for pads, if you're using the car mainly for road use, most "performance" pads are pretty pants when cold, and thats when you'll need them most for day to day use.

Its electrically from an in-tank fuel pump. First things first though, pop off your fuse box cover and check the fuel pump relay (above the fuses). You should hear/feel it "ping" as it energises. This makes the circuit to the pump, and you should hear a light hum as the pump primes. The relay is a common failure item, so worth checking if you're getting no fuel. It should be numbered 67, or 167 depending on date of manufacture.

G60 calipers are exactly the same as standard VR6 calipers (280mm), so yes they fit under 15" wheels with absolutely tons of room.

Just pop it off and have a look mate. Takes seconds.

There are 2 types. The closed ones are for the cooler climates to aid in warm-up, and the open ones obviously for warmer climates. Have a search as its been asked before, but you may find one for sale that doesn't have them if you don't want to cut it up.

I think you'll see a better return with a sound car even when offsetting the rebuild costs than you would selling as is mate. Get it done then get shot. Lick your wounds and count it as an lesson learnt to never be repeated!

That's nor the one mate. The one I had clips to the pickup and hangs vertically down, almost like sectioning the Sump off into 2.

I can't see the link at work, I'll have a look on my phone at lunch time mate. The clips form part of the whole thing so can't be replaced.

You'd know if your heater matrix failed. Aside from a sizeable puddle in the footwell, your windscreen would steam up instantly so you'd certainly know in the first instance!

There can be a number of things that can contribute to the low oil alarm, not just low oil so worth a check. Obviously check your level regularly, and make sure its within the correct level marks on the dipstick. If this is ok, replace the senders. If it still persists, perhaps try a replacement set of clocks, as these have been known to cause the alarm to go off. However, I had the same problem as you on my 1.8 16v a few years back, and it turned out the splash shield/baffle that attaches the the oil pump pickup (its a plastic baffle), had gone very brittle so a couple of the clips that attach it to the pickup had snapped, causing it to tilt when cornering aggressively, and momentarily block the pickup - thus starving it of oil. It'd only come on for a few seconds, but its not particularly quiet, and becomes very annoying and quite worrying that it could be causing internal damage. I'd suggest doing the above in that order mate.

Leave the filler cap off whilst you run it up to temp, as if the system is dry you'll end up with air locks.

Just use water to see if there is anywhere visible you can see it leaking from. Chances are if it is a leak, you'll have to drain the system anyway so you can top it up with the anti-freeze then.

Oh dear! Can you see any hint of mayo type substance on the filler cap? If not, I'd suggest filling the water up to top, and running the car up to temperature at idle, and have a look around for any leaks.

Yeah, there are quite a few. Not just pretend ones either!

Stuart, the Green ring indications you've quoted there are for the standard switch mate. I believe the one supplied by Matt stays on in both positions.

Fair enough mate, any time you need a hand just give me a shout. Look forward to meeting up again soon. :thumbleft: