seanl82

I've used Corrado graveyard direct through FB. Really well priced in comparison to some other joker who wanted £80 for a second hand throttle cable on there! I got a cable & front spoiler bar for about £50 delivered which I thought was really good. He supplied photos before I purchased too. Both items arrive well wrapped and swiftly so I guess it's luck of the draw.

Should have asked that before buying! 😆 Welcome to ownership anyway mate. As mentioned, the Wiki has a buyer's guide and although it's quite dated now, most things still stand. Parts are the difficult one as a lot of items are now obsolete. VW Heritage tend to have quite a few items and can order direct from VW classic parts which will save you cost on shipping if you went direct. Facebook CCGB page (very much worth membership) as well as here, and eBay are good sources of used parts and to research where to get things too.

Wow! I was gonna say £2.5k. I wouldn't necessarily bother with the centre caps. It's very rare they become available in this fitment so it's certainly a seller's market and you'll likely have people biting your hand off anyway. It wouldn't make sense financially to do them as you'll probably still achieve the same price regardless.

Get em banded too! They look absolutely superb with a lip. Timeless. 👍

Thanks all for responses btw. I did read that there are certain companies that can clean the ash out with various fluids etc but not seen much by way of evidence that it's actually very effective beyond the short term.

Collected it and the warning is now off. Hope it stays off for at least 24 hours as I'm chopping it in for a Tourneo Custom tomorrow! Lol

Nice one Martin, looks great! Bit of 1200 then 2000 grit sanding, then a good cut & polish and it'll stand up to even close scrutiny though. 👌

No issues with EGR as far as I'm aware and they've not mentioned it, so assume it working correctly. Yeah it's a euro 6 so adblue as well. That's all good as I get a countdown when low and it won't start if empty.

Hi all, does anyone know the intricacies of DPFs and can advise on the following?P I have a 2015 Pug 308 hdiBlue, and I recently had a 'engine fault - seek assistance' warning come up on the MFD. Not having a diagnostic system, I took it to the dealer who has said the EOLYS fluid needed topping up (£115+VAT) and also that the DPF needs replacing (£1100+VAT!!!!). Now the car has done 120k due to my 81 mile each way daily commute, and looking online it seems that 150k KM is pretty standard for them to top up with ash and need cleaning/replacing. The soot should have been burned off due to the length of time I spend on the motorway but that leaves the ash. The fact is that with the mileage, that price combined is probably 1/3 the value of the car which seems ludicrous to me. I've instructed them to top up the fluid but not replace the DPF. Now my question is, is it worth replacing with an aftermarket DPF (Are they reliable?), can it be effectively cleaned? Or are they spinning me a line to fleece me and it'll likely go on for a good while yet? I've actually been contemplating getting a transporter or similar recently, so if it'll last a good few miles then I can chop it in, but morally I don't like the thought of that if it could come back on and potentially leave someone stranded in short order.... Any help appreciated. Thanks all! 👍

Yeah the rear trim and C pillars will give you plenty of room. 👍

Yeah it's not difficult really, just need to be careful removing the pillar trims. It's back in but the sunroof is very stiff now. I can crank it back and forward by hand with a bit of effort as the mechanism is strong, but doubt the motor will be man enough. 😔 May leave it for a little while to 'bed in' so the foam compresses and softens a little.....

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Bit more on the interior today. Stripped the seats and door cards etc out ready to be re-coloured again tomorrow. Also took the headliner out as when I did it a few years ago, I didn't use a fabric that was foam lined so there were 2 bits on the edge around sunroof panel where the glue had bled through. (Only about 10mm each but it annoyed me!). The overlap of the sunroof panel wasn't as I'd liked either so it all came out to be re-done. Still a bit to do, but almost there now and done for the evening.

Yeah the handbrake mechanism on the Corrado calipers are what are prone to seizing. In all honesty, refurbishing your current calipers or replacing them for refurbished stock ones and also replacing the handbrake cables would be the best bet imo, and last for many years to come. I'm not sure about the Golf 2 and what manufacturer they use in all honesty. As long as the size is correct, I expect they'll fit. Usually manufacturer changes are due to size/model type so say a 1.3 might use a Lucas with a smaller disk, and the GTI might use Girling with a larger one. Just a guess but thats usually how it is.

Could have been either tbh. Where did you spray the lubricant? You wanna be careful it didn't go on the disk/pads, as it'll be absorbed by the pad material and end up useless.

He'll reveal all within the next few days, won't be able to help himself with the excitement! 😜

When you say busy Martin, I read checking forum & auction sites like a bloody hawk looking for the next bargain to get your mitts on! 😜 This is absolutely the right one to have mate, I obviously don't need to tell you that though. A little disappointed you only have one mind you! 🤣

Not me no. I have a Jetex but I did clean clean it up with some toilet cleaner which made a massive difference. 'stainless hack' in the car care section details. 👍

Great figures there mate! As much as you played it down I would have been worried after the first time around, but those lovely and tight. 👍

Hope it is the gauge misreading, cylinder 1 is pretty low. Iirc, anything between 160-180 is within tolerance.

Worth warming the engine a little beforehand as well. 👍

I did this using an engine support. Loads of room to get at the rear mount bolt (just the one accessed above). Remove the rack pipes and rack will come down with the subframe. Make a note of the length each side between two points of the rack/track rods so it'll be centralised when you put it back on. The spline nut can only go on one way so it won't be difficult to identify if it's out of alignment, but connect the pipes first before raising the subframe back up as they're a bastid to get on when in place (as is the spline because the boot gets in the way of your vision).

Here you go fellas.

Both of mine slipped straight out..... Just sayin. 🤐😂

The armature for the MK3 is different, as the Corrado one has an additional bit on it that raises the inner sunroof trim. The MK3 has a manual sliding inner panel so not required, and you can't do it on the Corrado cassette as it needs to lift up