
seanl82
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Everything posted by seanl82
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Trouble is that both the texture and colours are different. I've seen people use it but you'd have to do the whole floor and there are much cheaper alternatives. The original stuff was silicon based (hence the reason it's obsolete), the new stuff is much thinner and water based.
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As above. I had VT fast road all round, but I've swapped the GB one back to standard due to cabin vibration and the fact I was getting paranoid about gearbox sounds! I don't think the rear makes any difference in all honesty. The front is important but the rear just acts as a pivot due to the weight distribution over the gearbox mount. The additional vibrations offset any benefit imo though, so as long as they're in good shape I'd leave as is.
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The wings don't weigh a huge amount in fairness. Bonnet, tailgate and doors on the other hand! 😳
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The UK cars had the seal at the bottom of the door. Not many of them are still in place as they often split and hang down so people removed them years ago. Not mine I might add, mine are still perfect. 😜
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I think it has a 2+2. You can read certain codes using the OBD2 and an adaptor. I don't think you can read much, but if you know someone close that has one you should be able to connect and at least see basic info which may give you an idea if the ECU is working. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143738230852
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I think Fla put pics of the check valve setup on his members gallery. Maybe worth having a search through.
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I've got a Rayne loom with OE connectors and it's pretty good quality TBF. Must have had it about 6 or 7 years now and had no issues what so ever. Only slight issue I could find with it is the cable that runs along the front from drivers side headlight to battery is about an inch or two too short, so makes it a little tight when trying to route it nearly. I mentioned it in feedback to him when I bought it so he may have improved it since then. The connectors do need a little force to 'click' into place, but I'm ok with that as I know they're on nice and tight then.
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Yes but going from 6.5 to 7" wheels may necessitate the increase in tyre width. You'll get away with 195 giving a light stretch but it's your choice.
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Sorry yeah, the spacers may be required to clear the caliper at such a low offset.
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I'd go with 205 personally, but you'll need 5-10mm spacers to ensure they won't rub on the arches. You could go with 195 width tyres which will give a light stretch, but I'm not particularly fond of that. Personal choice though.
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45 profile is correct for rolling radius, so it'll be 205 or 195 width but it depends on the offset of the wheels.
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Is that a new expansion tank as well Martin? MK4 type?
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Thanks mate, makes sense. Can't believe how lucky you got with that fire damaged one, absolute bargain with the options it had. 👍
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Great stuff! Did you do the gearbox bits yourself Martin?
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I'd say toe first, though the camber will put it out slightly whilst adjusting but toe is easier to correct and will only need a minor tweak afterwards.
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The synchromeshes are known to be weak, so if shifting down from 2-1 whilst the gearbox is still spinning, you will get the jerk or clunk of its had it. Common for 1 to reverse and 2-3 as well as these gears see the most torque.
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Bentley says -1° for camber. When I had mine done on a Hunter though, the system said -1.5°. I told them to aim for -1°, though they couldn't really manage it very well so still need to get it done again as I'm not overly happy with it.
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The Mercury ones didn't look great tbh. Ford Fiesta (can't remember which years) fit as well apparently.
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Good to hear it was a quick and easy fix. 👍 Bit of a bugger there on the rear axle, but at least there is good access and it won't throw your geometry out if it was a millimeter or two out. Moving along nicely. 😉
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I can bring up most historic threads when searching Google, though a lot come through Tapatalk so you may need to install that to be able to view them. Toobes or whatever his name is seems to have done a disappearing act since taking the initial wave of joiners. If the CCGB bought back the forum, it really would leave this site with nothing to offer. I feel like we're getting nothing for our money here at the moment. Can't say I'm particularly happy with the way this site is being run, and I know it's only £15 but that's not the point.
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Yeah has been 3 previous members. The second of those bought it up to show standard, but it's been round the houses since then with shithouse dealers. Still looks in very good shape though.
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There is a metal circlip holding it in, that's it. Once that's removed, either give it a good tug (ooh er!) To release it from the vacuum, or apparently if you pump the brake pedal that works too. Very quick and simple. The longest part of it is removing the inlet elbow for access. 👍
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Speed sensor will always show up with the engine not running. If it's almost immediately cutting out it suggests immobiliser, though that should show up on VCDS as well. Is fuel pressure good?
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"No real rust to speak of, apart from a 6" hole on the passenger sill". 🙄