seanl82

One 10mm cable should be enough depending on how much load and the length you're running, with a sub main at the bottom as it'll be more economical and neater than running 2 X 10mm cables (they're pretty big and expensive). There is a calculator on the TLC website that'll work the cable size out for you if you know the load. Bear in mind that the cable should really be buried (hence the mention of fussy Sparky's). Mine was run behind my fence and supported every 50cm with clips.

Also perfect for the mounting of the aux belt guard. One of mine was missing, so I bought a batch of 5 from eBay and the mounting points are now fully populated!

It's the modern equivalent of the oily rag refurb that you mentioned earlier Si! 😆

It depends how anal your sparky is. I used 10mm swa to a shed at a sub main about 30m from the house. Everything including the swa, sub main consumer & RCDs was bought and run by myself. Its 100a at mains, supplies a 63 MCB at sub main for 6a RCD for lights, 32a sockets & 63a for hot tub. I've got a separate iso switch for the hot tub in the shed, though it's not connected yet as I've only got a 13a tub ATM - future proof. I paid £200 for the sparky to drill through the wall (2.5 ft of stone), install a JB and connect at the main consumer unit (which already had a spare RCD) then test to get the sign off and certs for building regs. Took him about an hour, but he wasn't fussy in all honesty.

I was lucky by the look of it then! No pin holes anywhere and only one mounting stud that was starting the crumble/separation at the welds which I managed to grind back. I think the fact that the sump and lower chain cover had been leaking so long it saved my bacon and gave the underside a misting of oil actually paid dividends! The only bit that needed welding was a couple of blobs to a 5p sized hole at one of the filler mounts. A mate with a mig sorted that for me, and a 2.5mm drill bit and tap sorted it perfectly. 👍

I didn't use it Si, I'm just going by previous reviews of it. It's available in Black, Grey & white. My underseal is either a very aged white or more like a beige/very light grey colour, so I ended up just using Upol Gravitex as it had been mooted as more like the factory texture - which I managed to get with it using a brush and dabbing. It's much more rubberised as well like the original stuff. Unfortunately due to the colour differences though, I couldn't feather the top coat in like the factory overspray as it just looked like what it was, a cover up of repaired bits. I ended up just painting the whole of the underside classic green in the end. Note; I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning all the oil and grime off first using thinners. I wouldn't recommend just dabbing a load of underseal over the too! I also wire wheeled/ground back any rust (luckily mine was only surface around a few of the mounting studs and lip), used bilt hamber deox gel, and layed on a fair few coats of etch primer and top coat before re-undersealing and more of the top coat.

Trouble is that both the texture and colours are different. I've seen people use it but you'd have to do the whole floor and there are much cheaper alternatives. The original stuff was silicon based (hence the reason it's obsolete), the new stuff is much thinner and water based.

As above. I had VT fast road all round, but I've swapped the GB one back to standard due to cabin vibration and the fact I was getting paranoid about gearbox sounds! I don't think the rear makes any difference in all honesty. The front is important but the rear just acts as a pivot due to the weight distribution over the gearbox mount. The additional vibrations offset any benefit imo though, so as long as they're in good shape I'd leave as is.

The wings don't weigh a huge amount in fairness. Bonnet, tailgate and doors on the other hand! 😳

The UK cars had the seal at the bottom of the door. Not many of them are still in place as they often split and hang down so people removed them years ago. Not mine I might add, mine are still perfect. 😜

I think it has a 2+2. You can read certain codes using the OBD2 and an adaptor. I don't think you can read much, but if you know someone close that has one you should be able to connect and at least see basic info which may give you an idea if the ECU is working. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143738230852

I think Fla put pics of the check valve setup on his members gallery. Maybe worth having a search through.

I've got a Rayne loom with OE connectors and it's pretty good quality TBF. Must have had it about 6 or 7 years now and had no issues what so ever. Only slight issue I could find with it is the cable that runs along the front from drivers side headlight to battery is about an inch or two too short, so makes it a little tight when trying to route it nearly. I mentioned it in feedback to him when I bought it so he may have improved it since then. The connectors do need a little force to 'click' into place, but I'm ok with that as I know they're on nice and tight then.

Yes but going from 6.5 to 7" wheels may necessitate the increase in tyre width. You'll get away with 195 giving a light stretch but it's your choice.

Sorry yeah, the spacers may be required to clear the caliper at such a low offset.

I'd go with 205 personally, but you'll need 5-10mm spacers to ensure they won't rub on the arches. You could go with 195 width tyres which will give a light stretch, but I'm not particularly fond of that. Personal choice though.

45 profile is correct for rolling radius, so it'll be 205 or 195 width but it depends on the offset of the wheels.

Is that a new expansion tank as well Martin? MK4 type?

Thanks mate, makes sense. Can't believe how lucky you got with that fire damaged one, absolute bargain with the options it had. 👍

Great stuff! Did you do the gearbox bits yourself Martin?

I'd say toe first, though the camber will put it out slightly whilst adjusting but toe is easier to correct and will only need a minor tweak afterwards.

The synchromeshes are known to be weak, so if shifting down from 2-1 whilst the gearbox is still spinning, you will get the jerk or clunk of its had it. Common for 1 to reverse and 2-3 as well as these gears see the most torque.

Bentley says -1° for camber. When I had mine done on a Hunter though, the system said -1.5°. I told them to aim for -1°, though they couldn't really manage it very well so still need to get it done again as I'm not overly happy with it.

The Mercury ones didn't look great tbh. Ford Fiesta (can't remember which years) fit as well apparently.