seanl82

Bugger, if I'd have known the location sooner I might have come to have a look! I'm only in Witheridge!

All European Corrado VR6s came with the 2.9 ABV engine, Golfs had the 2.8 AAA as well as US Corrados. MOT & service history won't tell you if the engine has been replaced and aside from the block and intake manifold in early AAA, they're exactly the same (later AAA also had a different throttle body with OBD2 management iirc). I think it's more likely your engine has been replaced at some point in its life. If you have the original paperwork, you may have the engine number on it which would tell you for certain.

Yeah mine is the Rayne one too mate. Well I have a Degree in Electronic Engineering so with you sourcing the bits and me making them, we'd be on to a winner! Lol

One of my relays (2 relay system) has just died so I've disconnected it all. Need to investigate further but don't think is due to moisture as it's Velcro'd to the battery and underneath the cover. Imagine it's just sticking or a dry solder joint as it's been in place about 6 years.

I've got the 2.2 euro 5 in my Tourneo Custom, currently on 203k. It's all about servicing from the COG forum. Mine has certainly benefitted from being an ex taxi and being serviced every 10k. Like a sewing machine. If left to ford recommend intervals (16.5k iirc) they won't last at all! The euro 5 has its issues as with any DPF diesel with injector recall close behind, but the euro 6 is no different from any other wet belt engine (think VW also use this now?). Prone to delamination and blocking the oil pump pickup, or just plain snapping. There is a recall and inspection on these too, but with multiple manufacturers sharing multiple platforms and engines (VW & Ford collaboration on the Caddy/Connect & T7/Transit) you'll see much more of this type of thing in the future too.

As far as the rear beam is concerned, I wouldn't worry provided it's the same diameter head and tensile strength. You don't need to remove them completely at any point (other than removing the brackets as you are now), so when you put them back in, just do it with the axle removed from the bracket. That way there is no weight on it so they'll go in no bother at all. 👍

Have you looked for ones for a mk3 Golf? They're exactly the same fitment iirc, and were supposedly an upgrade a few years back as less prone to blowing and likely far more plentiful. Nissens ones on eBay for less than £23 delivered.

VR6s are supposed to be run on premium fuel anyway.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4M-10x9mm-D-Type-Weatherstrip-Seal-Strip-Truck-Car-Door-Rubber-Sealing-Trim-New-/203304494584?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4M-T-Shape-Rubber-Car-Door-Seal-Strip-Hood-Trunk-Edge-Weatherstrip-Moulding-Trim-/294230543860?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Haha, yeah they do Hasan! I got carried away watching the YouTube vid and bought them as well!

The sunroof motor stopped working and kept blowing fuses. Removal of the motor from the mech stopped the fuses blowing but it would click and not move. Had an old one that was a bit slow so stripped it down, greased the gears and replaced. Tilt & slide silky smooth and runs along nicely now. 😁 Whilst doing the sunroof though, I noticed my roof mouldings have really deteriorated over the past year. They were beginning to crack along the rubber edge but only a few small ones on the near side, now both sides are looking particularly bad so I've ordered the DIY seals that Ron had previously mentioned to refurbish them. £17 for the D type underside, T type edge seal and enough double sided foam to do both sides, as opposed to £360 for a pair of new genuine ones! Aux water pump doesn't seem to be coming on now either. I'll investigate that this weekend as well. Think she's punishing me for not using her enough. 🙄

Got to agree with this, once again taking it to the next level. Absolutely hats off to you Graham. 👍

Don't use electrical tape, it will leave residue especially if it gets hot. 3m masking tape (blue) is the best and leaves no residue which is what you've suggested - used by body shops. Comes in different widths too so you can get good coverage.

Looks to be where the track rod end fits into. I would replace it due to the fact it's on the stress point. You certainly wouldn't want that to break when you're thundering round a corner! 😬

There were a few PD engined Corrados kicking about 7 or 8 years ago. I think I remember Purple Tom offering to do the transplant all things covered for a pretty reasonable price. Mind you, you could pick a PD block with turbo and all ancillaries up for about £75 at the time!

You don't half know how to pick em Chris, looks lovely! You're a glutton for punishment though! How many drive trains and axles have you dropped now!? 😆

Not sure if it was the cause Graham, but I had to cut out and weld in a new inner wing due to rot. My car was very low when I bought it so my guess is that a previous owner removed the liners to "slam it". Even the oil pump pickup had a crack in it and had scored the inside of the sump! Surprisingly engine is still strong and in good health though!

I thought mine would be well past looking good when I sent them off to bigg red so it was a bit of a gamble, but I can vouch for them being magicians with the process, they looked stonking afterwards! Worth noting that a lot of the calipers from the likes of ECP, GSF and Autodoc are either refurbished OE or aftermarket - read the small print, it'll say if the specific manufacturer isn't in stock (which an awful lot of the time unless a newer car is the case) you will receive an equivalent part.

Early MK3 had 280mm as well so same as Corrado. Later ones had the 288mm upgrade. Think the change occurred around 95.

Alright Keyo, sorry for late response (been away as mentioned). https://www.liquidleather.co.uk/leather-dyes-c48/dyes-c91/leather-dye-1l-p144 When you add it to basket and go through the options, it'll ask for the interior colour code. Just put the black one and go from there mate. In other news, car back home and in the garage safe and sound! Performed flawlessly as expected really - a little sluggish turning over after 12 days but the battery is about 6 years old now. Had a slight worry with how watertight it would be as it's been a dry weather car for the past 5 years, and not a drop of water inside even after the torrential rain the week before last which was great. Had to wash the seagull shite off before I left though! Good wash & dry yesterday and tucked back away. 😁

Liquid leather (scuffmaster) is the best one Hasan. First time around I used Furniture clinic but the sealer never set properly so it was always mildly tacky and left clothes fibres on the seat. Liquid leather is perfect though. Just be sure to use a gun as it'll leave a far superior finish to dabbing it on with a sponge. 👍

Thanks mate. Haha, it's in a Naval dockyard so unlikely to be stolen, just need to make sure it's left in a far flung corner out of the way of careless people though! Lol.

Interior finished off. 😊 First time it's seen rain in about 5 ears though. 😓

Haha, thank you very much for the offer mate! About an 8 hour round trip though! I could get a train and taxi, but I'm 17 miles from the nearest station so unless I went back tomorrow night it's a no go (my commute is 83 miles each way btw). It is an excuse to finish the interior and drive it I suppose, just wish I didn't have to leave it uncovered in salty air.

I know Cressa, been away with work quite a lot this year and as the boy has started karting and limited time with the family has meant the car is taking a back seat. I'm supposed to be replacing a fence this weekend as well so just don't have the time unfortunately. Driving it to Plymouth at 5am Monday and leaving it in a car park for 2 weeks before driving home isn't how I wish to use it though.