seanl82

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Looks great, good effort!

I genuinely don't see the appeal of these. Aside from the fact they're "rare", they are absolutely Fugly, and performance from the G60 in standard guise isn't exactly seat of pants thrilling, especially when bolting a heavy Synchro system to it. Definitely wouldn't be considering spending almost 40k of my hard earned on it anyway.....

The the rod is attached by a hook on the locking mechanism, so if you remove that it should give you enough movement to unhook it with the actuator screws out.

How did I miss the last one, great progress and it's looking fantastic! Really interesting piece on the coil pack, didn't realise this was done with VWMS - definitely one for Keyo and I imagine he's desperately sourcing parts! Lol. Keep it up, looking forward to more updates. 👍

Each small step adds to larger progress, good effort. It's having the consistent time to diagnose and repair these aspects which a lot of us struggle with, so despite periods where they're dormant it'll end in positive results. I had my brake master refurbished by past parts too. Good company to deal with and seemed very knowledgeable on the phone. Fixing some of the less commonly available parts (fuel pump) is a great thing to do now whilst there is still the possibility of acquiring them. Leaving it another year or so potentially ends any likelihood of sourcing OE type stuff so worth doing while you can. 👍

I had a Magnex on a previous project car, and aside from the waffle just inside the tail pipe it was identical to the Jetex on my current car. Maybe worth considering?

Does sound like starter motor to me. Perhaps try checking you have voltage at the starter motor whilst someone turns the key to be sure.

Keyo - I think even stock leather seats are North of a grand for a good set now mate.

I don't think this is as much an issue when starting from cold though, so a drop in pressure seems unlikely to be the cause. It's more often seen when warm. Mine fires within 2 seconds from cold, but takes probably 6 - 8 seconds when warm and tends to be between 5 - 30 minutes after switching off. It's fine in that first 5 minutes or so then again when its had chance to cool down.

The plastics are a slightly different colour. Have you tried deep cleaning the seats? There shouldn't be much difference in colour but sun bleaching may have lightened some parts. As mentioned, you can't buy replacement leather covers, so dying is the only option, which is all a specialist retrimmer would do or charge a huge amount to completely remake bespoke covers in the original pattern based off of your current ones. Your choice obviously depending on your budget.

They don't make original covers, so you would have to buy a used interior in beige. That would mean seats, door cards, interior plastics (A,B,C pillar covers, handbrake tunnel and trims etc), and also carpet if you wanted to get everything. Leather standard seats in good condition are extremely expensive in the UK, Recaro seats even more so. My advice would be to dye what you already have or retrim the whole lot but that is also very expensive for a good quality one. Remember, they don't make beige cows so the leather is dyed from the factory anyway.

YU is coming up blank on that site now for some reason, but that's the stock beige colour as in the photo. I bought my dye from here; https://www.liquidleather.co.uk/leather-dyes-c48/dyes-c91/leather-dye-1l-p144 In the options for checkout, it'll ask for the manufacturer and colour code. They have it on file so are able to mix it without you having to send something for them to match the colour against.

195 width. Not quite right for later cars unfortunately.

BG products have loads of different cleaners and additives. I've used the BG44k previously though can't say there was any noticeable difference. Much like Redex I suppose.

He's PMd me a couple of times on FB after I've mentioned I needed parts. After telling me how much he wanted, I've respectfully declined in all instances. 😆

The load bearing bolts are all 10.9. VW will stock some, but if you search Zap7VW you can obtain the part numbers for everything you need. What you can't get from VW you should be able to source from elsewhere on the net. 👍

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I changed mine recently too. Just need a brake fluid reservoir now as it letting the side down but alas, NLA. 🙄

Very Max Power! Lol

If the CVs are good, could just mask them up and rub down/wire wheel the shafts and spray some hammerite on them maybe? Same with sump maybe, and just change bolts one at a time torquing up to spec (25nm iirc) to save the hassle of dropping it with new oil and changing the gasket as well. 👍

Haha, just seems counter productive and much more expensive in the long run with the drive shafts, as they would have been removed to fit the gearbox and hubs anyway. Same with your engine rebuild, the sump would have been off with a new gasket fitted, so seems a shame not to have had it powder coated and new bolts put on is all. I understand you've got to stop somewhere though mate, costs spiral as it is without wanting to change every single component whilst you're there. Everything else just seems so shiny in comparison though! Lol.

There are 2 types/sizes of bolts. If you have an earlier fibre gasket it uses shorter bolts. For the later type rubber gasket, it's thicker so uses longer bolts. Can't remember the sizes of each but I'm sure you'll find them on Zap7VW. 😉

I think the majority will use Facebook for this purpose now anyway. It's only the more 'mature' person I imagine that would likely have been a member here previously, that are likely to think about the forum as an option to sell. I think even fewer would post here for the reason suggested - that they would prefer parts to go to an enthusiast rather than receive top money for the item on an open site. It's a good idea in theory, I just don't see it really making much if any difference in reality.

Yeah it great. I've got it as well as the clay bar, korrosol, autowash, and double speed wax as part of my cleaning gear.