seanl82

Good to hear it was a quick and easy fix. 👍 Bit of a bugger there on the rear axle, but at least there is good access and it won't throw your geometry out if it was a millimeter or two out. Moving along nicely. 😉

I can bring up most historic threads when searching Google, though a lot come through Tapatalk so you may need to install that to be able to view them. Toobes or whatever his name is seems to have done a disappearing act since taking the initial wave of joiners. If the CCGB bought back the forum, it really would leave this site with nothing to offer. I feel like we're getting nothing for our money here at the moment. Can't say I'm particularly happy with the way this site is being run, and I know it's only £15 but that's not the point.

Yeah has been 3 previous members. The second of those bought it up to show standard, but it's been round the houses since then with shithouse dealers. Still looks in very good shape though.

There is a metal circlip holding it in, that's it. Once that's removed, either give it a good tug (ooh er!) To release it from the vacuum, or apparently if you pump the brake pedal that works too. Very quick and simple. The longest part of it is removing the inlet elbow for access. 👍

Speed sensor will always show up with the engine not running. If it's almost immediately cutting out it suggests immobiliser, though that should show up on VCDS as well. Is fuel pressure good?

"No real rust to speak of, apart from a 6" hole on the passenger sill". 🙄

I had the wrong set too. I don't recall it sitting too low though, but it was much firmer from what I remember. I did have to run them for a couple of months, and on replacement the bump stops and covers were undamaged. I tried to sort the replacement springs myself, only to be met with the absolute worst customer services in Bilstein I've ever experienced. I got onto Demon Tweeks who supplied them to me and they were amazing, getting them sent out within 2 weeks direct from Eibach.

It's not so much the going back, as the coming forward that's the issue. It's common for the mechanism to break on the LH side and start raising as it gets halfway closed so scratches the panel. As mentioned, do it manually then remove the motor but leave the cable connected, and try it without the load of the mech to see if it works.

Welcome to the forum and congrats! Looks tidy that. I do like a sherry pearl I've got to admit! 👍

That's where the pump is - sandwiched in a styrofoam casing. Could be that you have a minor leak somewhere so it's continuing to run....

See I thought the point of a supercharger was that it's constantly turning and therefore no lag - meaning power delivery is much more linear compared to a turbo which lags low down....

The Bentley is the best we can hope for too. Some are lucky enough to have dealer manuals but they're few and far between. The Bentley is pretty good TBF, and the wiring diagrams are accurate so shouldn't present any problems for you. There were slight differences in early and late looms and 93 was the last for early, so you should be ok using the 94 diagrams.

I'll confirm if I'll be in attendance early next week mate. Won't be staying overnight but happy to spend a good few hours there and enjoy a nice roast dinner! 👍

Temped to make the 2 1/2 trip actually. In the interest of long distance road testing, obviously...... 😁

Top man James, great to see you're cracking on with it and (hopefully) the worst has been dealt with. A long and manotonous road for the bodywork, at least it's the school holidays and you can rope the kids in! Best of luck mate, glad it's in your capable hands. 👍

Good find and best of luck with this one. The paint on your white one looks incredible so always good to know you have a very competent body shop to deal with that stuff. Shame the same can't be said about auto electricians, that looks a right mess and reminds me of mine when I bought mine. Lots of electrical gremlins due to previous bodges and awful stereo and alarm installs. I'd see if you can get a few looms from breakers and just replace what you can in its entirety. That way it makes it easier and quicker, and gives you the peace of mind knowing it's unlikely to occur again. Good to know it's in capable hands (not that I'm saying previous owners weren't capable) but you'll give it the time and work it needs to get it back on the road. Think the KR or ABF cams will bring it to life too. 👍

Changed the fuel supply pipe from the filter as the hard pipe to rubber hose connector was a little rough. Just need the one from tank to filter now and underside complete.

There is no difference in lift or duration for any of the VR6 cams, the top end is effectively the same with only difference throughout being the cam pickup between early (dizzy) and late (coilpack). The bottom end is where the difference lays, ands it's only in displacement with the 2.9 being marginally bigger bore. The inlet manifolds differ and obviously management, and this is more to do with emissions and mapping.

Said barn. 😆

Transplant too being on a G plate (1990?) Has early exterior as well so not even sure the bonnet will close!

No worries mate, yeah my bolts are standard.

Yeah correct wishbones. They were all over the place between +1° & -2.5°, just couldn't make adjustments minor enough to get it correct. One side is -.57° & the other is -.65°. I'm gonna take it to another place in a few weeks anyway, there just aren't any with a Hunter setup near me - I have to go to Exeter which is 38 miles away. None are specialists either unfortunately, just the big tyre companies who work with modern stuff day in day out.

Rear was fine, I set that when fitting. There isn't much adjustment on them, just the brackets slide forward/back a few mm. It would feel like the car was crabbing if it was off. I just left them finger tight when refitting, dropped the car down and did the bolts up so mine were good, although camber was obviously a bit off (neg) due to it being lowered. No adjustment for that though.

Hi guys, just got home. They had a mare with camber. I'm at closer to .5 degrees than 1. Hopefully it settles a bit. It was difficult to make the adjustment in fairness. They raised it, adjusted it, lowered it to check and repeated about 5 times to get it there. I have standard bolts though and every time it slackened off, it would go out again. It was a young guy doing it with an old pro coming in and out to help him a bit, but I think I'll go somewhere else again in few weeks just to double check. Toe was set perfectly according to the print out (I was watching the whole time too) but it still feels like it's pulling to the left a bit - even taking camber of the road into account.

Thanks bud, it's fighting back and not making it easy for the guy to adjust the camber. Think he's just struggling to get the tools between wheel and bottom strut nuts. Enjoy your drive back too! 👍