seanl82

I don't know tbh mate, I may be exaggerating a bit with the price! I can't remember where it was I saw them but like I said, I simply couldn't see the use for it so was a tight arse and didn't bother! :lol:

I thought the same when I did mine Rob. I couldn't bring myself to buy a new one as the old one had completely rotted off, and I think it was about £35 for a piece of tin that I couldn't work out its function anyway!

TBF, it's probably my fault in that they've been sat with the handbrake on for 10 months.

So, just had the MOT but it failed unfortunately. Rear brake and handbrake efficiency, both linked to the calipers I think. I've got a set of mk4 calipers and conversion hoses I've had for quite a while, so I'll get them on and should have a clean ticket hopefully. 1 advisory was O/S/R brake pipe slightly corroded, so a wire wheel on the Dremel and some stone chip should sort that until I get around to replacing all the pipes eventually.

Have a look around hose connection points. The water may be evaporating off if the engine bay is hot, but you'll have a pink/white Crystal type substance left over which is the antifreeze. Other than that, thermostat housing or radiator are worth investigating further. Try to get you head around them all and underneath whilst the engine is running and up to temp so the system is pressurised, as that's the best time to notice anything amiss.

Yeah just gently prise it off. There's a little toothed metal clip that keeps it tight, so don't lose it as it has a habit of springing off.

I was looking at the V5 starter motor the other day, as mine occasionally clunks so think it's on its way out. The V5 one is a direct replacement and the only difference I can see, it the VR starter is rated at 1.7 kilowatts whereas the V5 is rated 2 kW output. I've heard they're like little turbines starting it and much better than standard, so it's the way I'll be going.

Changing the heater matrix will only make a difference if it's leaking or very blocked, and takes a long time to warm the car. Someone mentioned a kampa damp buster the other day which looks excellent, so may well be worth the investment.

Yeah I'm registered Daren. I'll be starting work somewhere New in May though and don't have the programme yet, so fingers crossed nothing conflicts.

I'd imagine this is advertised on most VW forums, so it's surprising more haven't registered, unless they're on other club stands?

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your purchase Simon! It's a very reasonable price even if it does need a little work. Like Jim I too love the 993, and is a car I aspire to own, even if it is way out of my reach currently! Where in Sussex are you? Seem to be quite a few down here on the South coast between Dorset - Hampshire - Sussex, so it's an ideal time (when the weather gets a bit better) for a meet. Always good to meet new owners and new cars! :thumbleft:

They're not off yet I'm afraid mate. Not sure when I'll have time to swap them over to the Bilsteins either to be honest, sorry!

Managed to get the first 5 drive shaft bolts off with the impact gun, last one rounded off though. Grinder with a cutting disk saw to that and I had a couple of spare spacers and bolts so all was well. All sorted and back on the ground now, so I'll phone the MOT station Monday and get it booked in. No other obvious problems but I'll see if they find anything as they usually do. (Slight play in rear wheel bearings almost guaranteed!).

No it's not connected to anything on UK cars. It is for the US market iirc but forget what it's for specifically.

There are a few possiblities unfortunately and its hard to diagnose without seeing it. Does it judder when light throttle is applied in neutral? If so, unplug the maf and try again. If you can, I know its an early car but see if someone local to you has vcds and a 2+2 adaptor to plug into yours, and try to read the codes.

How sure are you its getting fuel? Worth checking the basics if haven't already done so. Fuses, fuel pump & ecu relays are a good starting point. You should hear a slight hum from the fuel pump when ignition is in position 2 if its good.

Worth adding a few other bits that they sell too to justify the shipping cost Ron, as they come from Germany. Thats what I did anyway as shipping isn't cheap! They do have some extremely hard to get hold of parts though that simply aren't available in the UK anymore.

B&B components sell new aftermarket ones on ebay. About £35 iirc mate. Theyre made by topran which is a decent aftermarket manufacturer, the sellers ebay name is tierod69 and theyre £36.99 with free delivery. Excellent seller from past experience too so you should get ot quickly.

Your clocks wouldnt reset if it was ignition switch. You generally just get no sort of cranking. My bet is still with the battery or charging system. If the battery was completely dead which your symptoms suggest it is, jumping it will not matter. You need to rwmove the battery and charge, or remove battery and hook the jump leads you were using directly to the pos & neg cables on your car mate. If it starts no problem, the battery is dead.

AVS mate.

Aux water pump was replaced for new with no change. I have a spare sensor so will try that first, as sods law would have it I sold a fuel rail with fpr from a low mileage vr Las week!

Mine is similar. Never fails to start, but cranks for 5-6 seconds when warm before firing as opposed to 1-2 when cold. Its fine for about 15 minutes the there is a sort of window between 15-45 minutes where its a bit more difficult. Where in the fuel system would the non return valve be fitted, directly in front of the pump on the feed line?

ECU is a bit of a faff but do-able, the trim can be removed but does have retaining grommets along it and clips you should be able to see on the lip at the front. That is unless a previous windscreen fitter hasn't bonded it back on when replacing the screen as often happens. Just be gentle when prying it off so as not to snap it.

If you remove the battery, you'll see the neg lead is bolted to a stud on the chassis leg. That's the one.

Its the dim dip resistor with the yellow plugs. It needs to be disconnected when fitting an uprated loom. Best thing you can do is try to wrap them up and hide them away so as not to corrode the connections, but doubt you'll be able to incorporate it into the loom you're making Sean. Prices will just start going up and up if you start adding waterproof boxes to fit these into, so its better that prospective buyers do as they see fit with them. I've wrapped mine and hid them up inside the battery blanket so they're not exposed to the elements.