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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  2. 2 points
    There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.
  4. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  5. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  6. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  7. 2 points
  8. 1 point
    And now I’m very nearly there.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Totally agree, looks worth the money. Can only help Corrado prices 🤞 GLWS
  11. 1 point
    They are Corrado Recaro electric seats 👍
  12. 1 point
    That is terrible. Are you fitting a one way valve on the line as well as the new pump? Here are pics of my old pump that I changed last year. Which I assume was the original but not really any markings
  13. 1 point
    Just checked, no markings on the body but I've no idea if it is the original, car has 133k miles.
  14. 1 point
    It doesn't give you nearly as many options as on a newer car, but you can at least view and clear faults for the engine and for the ABS ECU. It's also possible to monitor a wide range of sensor values - basically nearly every sensor that talks to the ECU will show up in a measuring block. Are you seeing any fault codes? High RPM at idle would certainly suggest an air leak somewhere after the maf, or a fauly ISV. I think there is a trick somewhere in the VAG-COM interface for exercising the ISV solenoid - sometimes a proper clean will also help. Check out all your vacuum lines and hoses (to the brake servo, FPR etc.) and the EGR and crankcase breather system - there is also a black baffle muffler box connected to the ISV that often cracks and leaks air.
  15. 1 point
    TRW is a great brand do a lot for Porsche OE.
  16. 1 point
    Great colour and pretty rare. Lovely golden fleck. The only black id want. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    If the car runs when the relay is bridged, you defined to look at what switches the relay. And if you say there is a dodgy alarm/ immobiliser wiring then this is where I would be looking, and remove it. Make it all stock original and then you know what you are working with. Good luck 🤞
  18. 1 point
    I’d agree that you’d be better with two fans in operation as when the stage 2 fan engages as that’s the idea, one fan isn’t enough as the temp has gone so the rad sender engages the second stage, going from one fan to the other won’t improve your cooling one bit. It’s a nice little project sorting the fans and wiring out. Something else to bear in mind is the auxiliary water pump, you need to see how he’s wired the fans. If he’s bypassed the main fan controller unit chances are this won’t be running if the fans come on when you turn the engine off. You can tell if the auxiliary pump is working by just turning the ignition on without engaging the starter motor, you should hear the pump run for 30 seconds or so, no buzzing and it is duff.
  19. 1 point
    Did them last night mate- too spongy with a press- put it in at a slight angle the bush to get the first bit through the hole and then a large flathead screwdriver head to push/lever the other side through . Helps if you put the cross member on a vice wrapped in blanket to protect powder coat sp you have good access. .
  20. 1 point
    Bit of rust treatment. But I have pulled out some degraded sponge..
  21. 1 point
    Merry Christmas one and all.
  22. 1 point
    ...and when I bought it, completely stock:
  23. 1 point
    Just seeing if this picture works... my converted evaporator from a Mk4 Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    Hey Guys, I'm still knocking around, and today have been trialing a newer forum platform and trialing a migration. Once I am happy that its good enough to start on as a base, I'll read-only this and begin the real migration and transfer so there will be interuptions this week (hopefully it'll be more a you can see but can't interact). My short term plans are: 1. Read-only unless you are a member 2. Membership will be £15 a year 3. Wiki's will make a come back 4. I'm going to get some help in terms of moderators / admins 5. Considering working with CCGB - Need to reply to the owner 6. Tapatalk - I hate it, but I'll try to include it again and clean it up. Thats on day 1 anyway. I need a solid base with less issues before I start looking at new things!
  25. 1 point
    This. Still love my car(s), either running or not. But hells teeth, I’d give second thoughts to starting again. And I think that’s where a lot of the value is. Simply keeping one running is hard enough, finding parts and restoring one = serious hours searching for parts. Spending nearly a year trying to obtain a straight drivers scraper seal in fair condition, plus four months for head bolts and a brake compensator kind of knocks the shine off it a little. Hopefully it sells for strong money and makes the Corrado more visual to other petrol heads / collectors. That way we all benefit and with it more reason for manufacturers to provide greater part support.
  26. 1 point
    I have my fan out the car still. The only markings on it are A52/C2. I could happily send people pictures, but have GIVEN UP TRYING ON HERE ...
  27. 1 point
    My mechanic remarked my car felt a little lumpy when warm after he gave it a once over last week (I’ve only had it for a few weeks and hadn’t really noticed). We did spot the PCV pipe was split (Part No: 7M0 128 101) and I’ve ordered a replacement but yet to receive and fit. This is our first line of investigation as the car is showing no fault codes. An air leak would give symptoms of rough running though so maybe you have something similar. I find my car can be a little snatchy on the throttle – i.e when coming off or on of the throttle while cruising it doesn’t feel smooth but then at other times it’s fine. I don’t get exactly the same symptoms as yours but thought it was similar enough to post my experiences so far.
  28. 1 point
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  29. 1 point
    Good work guys. Great experience with your renewals team just. Firstly very open and honest and secondly, matching last year's quote, which will do me for another year at least. Fills me with the confidence that should a need to claim ever arise, you'll look after me in the same manner. Thanks, Waz
  30. 1 point
    Car looks sick bro! Love the colour aswell and the colour coded wheels!!! Looks spot on! is that a cheeky bench i spot in the back ground aswell? Home gym and corrado storage attached to each other. DREAM COME TRUE I envy that
  31. 1 point
    That's gonna be a sod to repair.. That bit rarely breaks, it's always the 'finger/plunger' that snaps. The main problem is that it has a pressed in pin that's bigger than the other, smaller pins that secure the finger bit that opens the lock, which means that it's a sod to drill out and then secure it back in. I've done one or two but after a bit, the pin always backs out again leaving you as you were before.. I've got a few spare if you want to try and repair the handle, let me know and i'll pop one in the post. Almost forgot a very important bit, always grease the components throughly and make sure that the components move freely without any tight spots, some of those repair kits available on the net are utter crap. Also make sure that the door itself doesn't shut too tightly as this will also strain the mechanism alot, loosen the striker if ness.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip. It needed a good tug to get it out, but wasn't difficult to get out. Mine was actually the connector in the end, but I bought a brand new PPS and fitted that, so I think I still have my original one that was tested good. I cant remember if it sold or not before I left with a few other bits, but if I still have it and you're in no great rush, give me a nudge around Christmas time and I'll see if I can dig it out.
  34. 1 point
    Also available at eurocarparts, also ATE so oem http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-hydraulics/other-brake-hydraulics/?130440270&1&7f5ca990775c260367ddb74d4ec0c04f1e7022b2&000417
  35. 1 point
    You will require a large spline boss for a '92 car, VW went from small to large spline across the range in 1990. Actually, all they did was to fit a sleeve to the small spline steering column which is removable with a puller. A Momo wheel will sit slightly closer to you but it will only be 'slightly'. An answer might be having a spacer fitted between the wheel and the boss if it really bugs you. If you do an e-bay search for 'Momo steering wheel boss kit spacer' you will find lots in different thicknesses.
  36. 1 point
    There's only one thing for it - lysholm charger :norty:
  37. 1 point
    To put it simply: do you go to concerts and face away from the stage? Do away with the rear fills and focus on the best speakers and front stage your pockets can justify. Those rears will not be missed with a proper front stage setup.
  38. 1 point
    Just having a look at the forum for old times sake. Not sure if you still have my old Corrado? If you do, the missing knob on the driver's seat you asked about is not a lumbar support, I think it is where a rather annoying arm rest used to be. I took it off as it just got in the way. It went with the car with all the other spare parts to the bloke I sold it to. Hope that helps solve the mystery?
  39. 1 point
    if your switch is broken, and doesn't work properly, u can use early style sunroof switch, it is the same as Recaro switch, only difference in front of the switch, but i think u can swap it with front part of Recaro switch,
  40. 1 point
    Correct assumption Campaign , it's very much a Glasgow thing, eternally optimistic :)
  41. 1 point
    Basically mr clumpy, if you reading carefully I just wanted to know what sort of price guide I should pay for a storm, thanks and sorry if I offended you
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Optimum no rinse Mic. Lots of pro detailers use it or another no rinse prooduct in the height of summer, or when a hosepipe ban is in force. Have a read up on it. I cant say Ive ever used it tbh, but it does get rave reviews.
  44. 1 point
    I have a late steering cowl in black you can have for nothing.
  45. 1 point
    People will tell you a grand for the interior as a full setup with door cards etc But in the current clim you won't get that For example everyone say a schrick vgi is worth £850ish but the last 2 I have seen sold for £500 and £600 so well off £850
  46. 1 point
    U1/6 will be at the fuse box in the footwell not engine bay.that green wire should go to the old digifant ecu.Have you not removed it?
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    here ya go mate, i'm actually thinking about seating them into the scuttle cover by getting the dremel out so they are more flush, but hey they work just fine.
  49. 1 point
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RkLsnbdRME Heres my video. Edited by my mate and uploaded by him, he did accompany me and did all the button pressing while i booted it. He's also edited it. They are the best little cameras ever. Edit: Woops added someones vr6 video instead of mine...
  50. 1 point
    Is there not a plastic tab held down by a a plastic nut you need to do undo first? before lifting up the res. Located down the side of the power steering bottle I think
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