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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Sorry Chiswick, my bad memory! Haha yup I'll pop over and get them, if they're at the same price 😉 Post up some pics of your car whenever you have time Hasan

Injector leak-down is a good shout, also worth checking residual fuel pressure is not dropping too quickly. Some on here had some success resolving long crank times using a non-return valve on the fuel pump feed, but there are so many variables and components that could be old and faulty in the loop that it can take a bit of time to track down.

There was a short write up from Chris de Bono in the Autumn 1996 edition of Sprinter followed by the for sale advert in the Summer 1997 edition. I seemed to remember seeing photos in colour at the time but guess they must have been somewhere else. Dusty Mauve.pdf Campaian.pdf

Sent you the email they sent me. You’ll note the guys name. He’s the one you want to deal with.

I’ve no experience of this, I read the above as.... boxster “S” Rear will fit over 25mm disks rears need not to be reversed - Rear right fits front right - the nipple will remain at the top to expel air in the system when you bleed them (using front callipers you’d need to swap left to right to have the nipple at the top? Ie reversed). thats my take on what’s written in your quote, don’t shoot me if I’m wrong....

I’m sure Chris will reveal his method, but when I did this on my car, I used a wallpaper steamer with a nozzle attachment to soften the wax, and then wiped off with a cloth. I then used a degreaser and a cloth to remove the remainder. You can keep going with panel wipe if necessary, but I was happy to just reapply some fresh clear wax.

Looks Sherry to me too. I think the front of both sills could do with a in person look at as well

No worries bud glad to help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks got mine today best quality loom available and a good price.

Parked my car at the local farm shop earlier then stood drooling over a 997 GT3 a few spaces down before I nipped in the shop. When I come out there’s a guy stood looking at the Corrado, “Love the car” he says, goes on to tell me he wanted one in the day but never had one etc etc. I get in to leave and he gets in his GT3, wish I’d realised, he might have done a straight swap!!!

I’ve got to say that your reply was pure quality. It’s still tickling me now

steps 🤪

How comes you was rolling around on the floor taking pictures, had you fallen over. 😂😂🤣😂😘😂

Done now - deleted attachments. For the record, the VR only has the one in tank fuel pump - the 16v and G60 had an in tank lift pump and the main pump mounted underneath the body where the fuel filter is. The ECU relay is #109 and the fuel pump relay #167/67 - look at the side, they will have a diagram showing the wire and terminal connections and how the relay is switched.

I have the protective strip decision to make as I collect my car from paint this week - I will be putting some ABT rep side skirts on so in in all likelihood will leave them off. On my VR that is black I left them off as they always look crap on an a black car.

Can’t be many of you one owners left. Looks like you’ve been looking after it well too. I’m guessing coil overs to make it so pretty and some body work done at some point and didn’t put the bump strips back as you liked the cleaner look, as do I.

It’s a minefield mate. Do a lot of research and get an idea of what you going to do or you’ll end up like me with two sets of fans. I also made a double 11” set up before I went for 12”. That’s in the loft 😂😂🤣🤣

This is not based on experience with VR6s. Mine comes from living with generations of Saab engines. If you havent - drastically - increased the rev limit to - say 8000 rpm, or added a supercharger or turbo to boost beyond 1.6 BAR, as long as your rebuild - if you've done one - finely balanced the moving mass of crank, rods and pistons, the basic pulley should be fine. Was there a reason for not refitting the original pully back into place? Did it get destroyed because the nut wouldn't budge? There seem to be a few second hand pulleys on the market - here's one.Corrado 2.9 VR6 Genuine VW Crankshaft Pulley | eBay I cannot see the of a lightened pulley to a road engine. Mk3s seem to have a lighter pulley. Perhaps one of the R32 chappies could chime in here- it seems to me that the R32 pulley fits straight on - looking at the parts spec on paper. Second hand it seems to cost around £60, or £350 ish new.

It's a tick box in your notification settings.

I use AMOS who is unpopular on here but he always has about 8 cars and years of supplies in his garage. Last time I went he had a nugget with a usa tailgate and third brake light. I would say he has the most parts in the UK- although I wouldn't take my car to be worked there as only let Vince work on my car.

I deleted an obvious spam attempt this morning. Watch out because the spammers will try to brute a moderator account to approve the post if they can - I had three attempts and lock outs over night. Maybe a good time to change your moderator passwords and make sure they are of a decent strength and complexity.

This is why deals should be done in plain sight on the forum, then go to PMs for payment and addresses etc

Something wrong there then, I’d put a proper fuse in and see if there is power to the switch. if the switch is goosed you can get one of these mk3 controllers, the switch is basically the same just upside down on the other side. I used one to fix mine. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/1h0820045c-fresh-air-and-heater-controls.html

Dox is the man for getting the background on any car!

L824 WLD grey Vr6 joined the M1 motorway travelling south 06:25. Looked in good condition, although the heater doesnt work as he had his hoody up 🤣🤣

Yay - we are up and running. I took the time to tidy up all the wires, ensured splices were covered and then I used that fabric type tape to wrap the wires up tidy. I have 3 issues to resolve... 1. I had a casulty in the fuel line going from accumulator to filter (the smaller lengthed one - believe to be PN 535 201 218 A - the black plastic shrink to fit pipe split. I have used some similar ish clear pipe my father in law has for his tractors to get it running but it seems to leak. Does anyone know of any options to buy replacements? Heritage do this but I'd rather not spend 85 quid on pipes: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Line-Kit-K-Jetronic-Fuel-Filter-to-Accumulator-Stainless-Steel/392370035642?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D33aba946907c435a8867d21042a272a7%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D372721072798%26itm%3D392370035642%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 2. TI am really struggling remounting the underbody pump unit to the car. I've bent the metal clips that locate around the rubbers to a 90 degree angle thinking I'd bend them back into place once pump assembly is mounted but struggling to get the clips bent over the thread and bolt on top. Is there a better way!? 3. And lastly my fuel and coolant gauge doesn't work. I dont know if they ever worked or if it's something I disconnected when sorting wires out. I did see the fuel gauge reading more than full whilst messing about getting the pumps to work. Does anyone know which colour wires relate in the fuse box area, if any at all? The rest of the dash and electrics (spoiler, lights etc) are working well. Here's a couple of vids of the car. Headphones work best!

All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado. Just kidding. Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems. Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure. The main grounds to check or replace are: 1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic) 2: transmission bolt to frame 3: intake manifold to firewall 4: firewall to hood hinge 5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down. Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation. All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.

Finally back in the car. Secured and sealed up. A difficult part was lining it up against the heater directional box. It was catching the hot to cold flap, which I turned to hard!!! So lesson to all, take your time and you won't have to reset the dash controls. Since working it out the Hot to Cold flap now turns incredibly smoothly. There is however no way of securing the two units together, so I used a tyrap to hold it up and in line, some sticky sponge to seal and close the gap, then gaffa tape all around. A very efficient system now. Fingers crossed that I can get it pressure tested soon and that it won't leak....... Be interesting to see if this converted mk4 golf evaporator does the job, especially after all this time and money.

Yep! Thought was a touch steep... Must be rare storm editions tax ;-) ... payment on way, Thank you. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Many thanks for your kind words - It's only because of the forum and the helpful, kind and supportive people that I've been able to make the progress I have - the number of stupid 'what does this do' type emails I've sent and 'please help' requests has been quite embarrassing but always well recieved. This forum (the people) has genuinely inspired me and made me feel I had the support when I needed to reach out for advice or parts (during what would otherwise been a very difficult time for me personally). I've learnt a fair bit in 7/8 weeks and look forward to continuing with my corrado journey. I have a 1986 xr2 in similarly bad condition that one day I also hope to 'save'..... Thanks again....

Congratulations, well deserved. This is one of my favorite Corrados. Let me know when you're selling!

Hi everyone, not new to VW or Corrado's but time to give the old girl sone TLC and get some advice from all you experts 😊 This is my 2nd corrado VR6 and I've owned 3 mk3 Golf VR's and 2 mk4 GTI TDI 25TH Anniversarys over the years. Sold my old Corrado to my buddy @fishmaestro and he helped secure a tidy blackberry VR for me coming home from a couple of years overseas. Living in East Lothian Scotland and can honestly say I've only seen 2 other Corrado's since returning 18months ago. Maybe I'm not getting out enough, although the good one's are definitely getting harder to come by! Not got too much planned at the moment but I've spent the last few months trying to source a decent set of 16" BBS RX 5x100 to no avail. Any help would be much appreciated! Also looking to replace wing mirror glass as edges are tarnished, is there a how to thread on here? Last thing I'm looking to do with the weather change is a windscreen wiper/wiper arm upgrade, do people still recommend the Lupo GTI ones? Looking forward to learning some tips and sharing some pics n progress! Cheers, Matt

Nice looking car and even better mk1 in the background. Welcome

nice. like the colour & the plate make yourself at home :)

Your assumption is correct, I am on the East coast; born and raised in Bronx, NY but currently reside in Manassas, VA. It would appear as if we have a similar taste in vehicles; my main project is a Mk1 Scirocco S1, I was hoping to have her done by August but life throws lemons at you sometimes.. I have learned to make lemonaid with them. I know all about the Chevy vs. Ford crap. Personally I admire any well made machine. In terms of recommendation, I still stand with the 2.8 Vr6. You can do a mild and cheap build, the sound and performance will keep you satisfied until you're ready for more. When the time comes, you can swap in a larger 3.6l Vr6, and the rest is yours. You can also throw guru bucks at it and convert it to AWD, I know one day I may consider that swap. Have you heard of the Lugtronic Stand alone engine management system? That is the last big purchase I need to make for my build. As far as the Turbo vs. SC goes; both make great power and are good for there purposes. If you are after the numbers, I recommend Turbo, if you are after drivibility, I recommend a SC. Depend on where you go, who you talk to, and what you read, you can find supporting arguments for both sides. A lot of people go after Turbos to get that Cherp sound or the sound of the dwindling down after hard acceleration but both hurt performance and, more importantly, can damage your turbo. I can speak on both forms of FI and N/A motors very well and honestly recommend both, based on build goals; just as long as they are being used appropriately. You seem to be on the right track and I don't doubt, for a second, you will be able to tackle this with ease. Researching is your best tool, use and abuse that sucker!

Dave vw still got roll bar vw bones no late head lights corradorestorer pmd vr pete ill get pic tommorw

there is a connector that goes into the dizzy, 3 wires, using a light, inspect the wiring and remove old tape, ive seen broken wires there on a couple of cars. also check the three colant temp wires beneath the dizzy they have a habit of breaking as well, its because of the heat and oil that crack the outer wire casing. if thats ok, you can check if the coil is getting a trigger signal from the dizzy at the coil pack connector. also check primary and secondary windings using a meter on the coil pack. let me know how you get on.

I believe you can use something along the lines of: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-805-Volkswagen-Speaker-Adaptor-Lead-Cable-Stereo-CD-/150566801843?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 You may find this item much cheaper somewhere else thought.

Put a link up so to help people out in the future fella

OK I've done my baseline research and decided a torquey rotary with variable speed is the polisher for me. Only snag is choosing one. As per usual, 10 different people say 10 different polishers are the best. One make that does get mentioned a few times is this fella :- http://www.powertools2u.co.uk/sanders-and-polishers/makita-9227cb---180mm-sander-polisher.htm I can't find anywhere that sells this polisher as a 'kit' with various cutting compounds and pads etc. Any know of somewhere that does? Ta

A couple of sellers who come with the highest of recommendations: Matt (8vMatt): Offered a heater motor based on seeing a previous parts request coming to a dead end. Item exactly as described, dispatched and received based on an extremely tight deadline. I'm talking VAG Parts next day delivery quick. Extremely prompt responses on the PM's. Literally can not fault. Tom (PurpleTom): Have dealt with Tom from a selling point of view in the past and found him to be extremely amicable aswell as punctual individual. Roles have recently reversed and I have now become the purchaser and same holds true. 100% honest seller, items as described, arriving quickly after expressing urgency. 10/10/.

Here's the quick vid I made last night just driving up the road and back basically. It's upside down as mounted it so I could press the buttons etc. As you can see, the quality doesn't seem as good, it doesn't handle exposure as well and the sound is crap! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kl9Vv2d6LUk

Last year I replaced all brake pipes right up to the ABS unit under the bonnet. The only original pipes are now under the bonnet (ABS to master cylinder etc.). I got all the bits from http://www.automec.co.uk. I bought their "Universal Light" flaring tool I think it was, which was around £100 but it's a lovely piece of equipment which makes great beautiful flares on your pipes. It's a lot of money but even if I only used it once it's paid for itself. You can get hand-held flaring tools much cheaper but in my experience, the force needed to make excellent flares is too great for a hand held tool. The Automec flaring tools are used in a vice. Hand held tools allow you to do a pipe in situ though, but I don't think that's really necessary or advisable. I bought the normal copper pipe from them. Some people prefer the copper nickel as opposed to the standard copper as it's harder, but that just makes it much harder to bend, so I opted fro the standard copper. It's advisable to get a bending tool too from the same website, as although you can easily bend copper by hand, there are places you'll want a tight bend. Their basic bending tool isn't very expensive. You may want to also buy the deburring tool to clean up the cut pipe. Oh yes, you'll need a pipe cutter too. I got one from a website that a guy on here started I think. The name escapes me, but any adjustable copper pipe cutter will do. I think B&Q even sell them. My original brake pipes failed the MoT and I'm actually glad the guy did it. I really like the MoT guy who does my car. He really likes the car, squeezes us (me and my dad) in to his schedule when he recognises the car on the phone and doesn't fail it on trivia that you can't prove otherwise. When I saw the pipes I was actually shocked. Also, my brake hoses were bulging at points. If you're going to replace your brake lines and your hoses are old too, then I would just get the full set of 6. I got mine from GSF but others prefer Goodridge braided hoses. Incidentally, you've got virtually no chance of removing the unions from the old pipe anyway, as they will be corroded on. The best way to remove the old pipes is with bolt cutters. Try to catch the fluid with newspaper. Fitting the new pipes around the car is surprisingly easy. Some bits are a bit tough because you have to get it behind heat shields for the exhaust, but be systematic and it's no problem. You may have to use cable ties to secure them to places as the original plastic clips will likely have broken off. It's a good idea to 'seal' the brake reservoir with cling film, then put the lid on as this helps to minimise leakage and prevent the complete emptying of the system. Another tip is to make a sort of plug with one of your new unions and a hammered down small piece of copper pipe (flared at the union, obviously) and place this temporarily in the ABS unit for the particular pipe you are replacing. This again helps to minimise leakage and air ingress. You need to watch with the unions, as most are the standard M10 male unions for German cars, but one of them is an M12. I'm not quite sure why this is but I think it's to ensure that you fit the pipes back in the same order. So you'll need to buy M10 unions and a couple of M12 (if you want to make an M12 temporary plug too) unions from Automec. All in all, I replaced all four brake lines right back to the ABS unit, all new brass unions (lovely quality), bought a brake flaring tool, cutter, bending tool and deburrer, with new copper pipe and new flexible hoses for probably around £150-170. Something like that. Most of the cost is the tools, but you'll always have them. Also, when you make the flares up, take care to make the right one. VWs use what I think they call a single flare, whereas the tool can make single or double. Basically, just read the instruction carefully and compare your flare with those on the original pipes and you can't go wrong. It's very important to remove burrs though before flaring as they WILL leak if you don't do this. Oh, another thing. You will likely want to replace the brake pressure compensation valve which is attached to the rear suspension and reduces braking pressure on the rear as the car tilts forward (to prevent rear wheel lock under heavy braking). Mine was original and was totally gubbed and just about seized. If you're replacing all your pipes then just get a new one of these. They are not that expensive if bought on the Internet. Be careful to note which pipes went where (there are two inlets and two outlets). After bleeding the air out, check very carefully for fluid leaks. New fluid is harder to see because it's clean. I had a very minor leak which was cured by tightening it up. I was worried about over tightening them and deforming the flare. Just remembered, you might want to get a brake pipe spanner. I'd buy one from Halfords for this. The Automec one is very cheap and not really up to it. One more thing, the hardest bit with the fronts is probably getting it through the sidewall of the engine bay. There's a rubber grommet that you need to remember to put on the pipe BEFORE doing the final flare. Likewise you need to remember to put the unions on the pipe BEFORE doing the last flare, otherwise you'll need to cut the pipe again to get them on! Aligning the pipe through to the engine bay, with this grommet such that it doesn't rub and follows the rough path of the old pipe can be tricky. Lasty(!) the size of pipe is 3/16".