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Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Totally agree, looks worth the money. Can only help Corrado prices 🤞 GLWS

Great looking motor and price. Too much for me but I am sure someone will put it in their garage. I always enjoy an advert for a standard car and then read the tasteful modifications

Corrado Number 2 Or 4 actually in ownership count. I had seen the car advertised on Facebook but was so disheartened from other cars I had viewed that I discarded it without even looking at it. Later the owner and I were trading some parts and by chance I gave him an incorrect wiring loom for a leather interior so went up to see him to swap over looms. I saw the Corrado and it had virtually none of the issues I had expected and it was a very nice car at a very fair price. 91k, VW and specialist annual servicing from 1994 - 2021, a long term owner between 2005-2021 and all original. The car had sat for over a year out of MOT as the previous owner had picked up abother dream car. I could see the car had some bush and brake line type MOT advisories so I asked for it to be MOTd and if it passed I'd buy it... it did pass.. so I picked it up on Sunday. It does have 2 areas of the rust - see pics - little scab on the wing and a scab in side in the fuel door area. I will get these fixed with new metal before they get worse. The car was resprayed in 2009, for £2350 inc VAT - how times have changed - and came with old style photos to show windows out, back to metal in areas. The paint is excellent in my eyes, just some swirl marks to polish out. No imperfections under my LED garage lights. It had new window and trim rubbers all round back in 2009. I felt confident if the paint had lasted this long and still looked good it must have been a decent job too.

They are Corrado Recaro electric seats 👍

Thanks for all your kind words. Yes totally agree one would be crazy to think if you nut and bolt you will get your money back- I expect if these two corrado to out live many of us on here now if garaged and taken care of- all the salt and daily driving is that kills them- in fact renovation can be pulling back the clock of 25 years use . Im 100 percent moving onto buying a car restored or in low mileage - summer salt free car- just makes easier ownership and to come out of them- I just like the buzz of trying new cars so need to buy my cars renovation free in the future- easy to sell on and use straight away and not be double figures out of of pocket if i sell. I might well get a 16v runabout in a couple of years and enjoy if for its worts and have a comprehensive brake down cover. I will still be about though guys dont worry.

New forum title 🙂 Looks great from here. First Corrado I had was a 2.0 16v in white. Freshly polished in fading light makes all those lines/curves really pop. I said I wouldn’t have another white car, but I’d have that in a breath 👍🏻.

I thought that might be yours that went up this weekend. It’s easier said than done, but if mines sending me over the edge I leave it alone for a few weeks to build up enthusiasm and it’s always better to step back sometimes when you are chasing issues. When you come back to it you might look at the problem from a different angle or think of something you’ve missed which generally works out for me. Good luck either way

Looks good now, fingers crossed for you 🤞

If it’s been say for years as you say, it’s probably valve stem seals and such in the head that’s gone all hard. The block may still be good with that mileage and may not need a rebore. Stealth quoted in the region of £1500 for head refurb, chains and guides a couple of years ago. If the block needs work when he opens it up, your car is in the right garage for the work. Get the crank seals done while it’s in bits either way though. It’s well worth asking to speak to Vince and get a quote, he really does know the VR6 and doesn’t waste your money or time.

It’s great to see that they chose the best colour 😎 I’m bias !

good find m8 fastest owned - probably my modified VR but i think my modified & half stripped R53 supercharged mini would give it a run for its money. they both produce noise induced grins time after time! fastest ive been in - a few contenders; the nissan GTR i drove was crazy but then my old boss took me out in his modded porsche GT3, which covered ground so quickly it was incredible most interesting is a tough one - i still remember a ride in a 308 ferrari when i was about 10, had some great times in my uncles VW camper van but id go with my dads porsche 911 3.0 SC targa

The current wheels suit the car imo

As for the alarm, trace each wire and remove it. Join back any that have been interrupted by the Gemini system. Then see what you are working with

Done now - deleted attachments. For the record, the VR only has the one in tank fuel pump - the 16v and G60 had an in tank lift pump and the main pump mounted underneath the body where the fuel filter is. The ECU relay is #109 and the fuel pump relay #167/67 - look at the side, they will have a diagram showing the wire and terminal connections and how the relay is switched.

If the car runs when the relay is bridged, you defined to look at what switches the relay. And if you say there is a dodgy alarm/ immobiliser wiring then this is where I would be looking, and remove it. Make it all stock original and then you know what you are working with. Good luck 🤞

Aux. Pump is designed to run continuously whilst with the ignition on. 👍

Few updates Bought a facia for the centre gauges to make it look better, its 3d printed Glued the LCD mount to the back Filling the face to make it smoother Click on picture below to se the video Video Sprayed the bonnet, needs some flatting now Then fitted this centre visor and today, the screen got fitted Still waiting for the DVLA to update my V5, only been 9 weeks so far, when I called they said it may take another 3 weeks which is a shame as I wanted to take it to VW Whitenoise 😞

Just seen these at Heritage, got to be a good thing for us, instead of being ripped off in a bidding war

This was my method, tooling was supplied by Messrs Heath & Robinson! Getting the first side done took a couple of hours as I was trying every piece of packing for size to pull it in straight. Second one took a few minutes.

Get one whilst you can wont be long they will be up to to Mk1 GTI prices - yes private road on my Great uncle Barnicales in the Highlands of Scotland ha.

Filling with petrol is always good when troubleshooting a non-start scenario 😉

You definitely want his next shit to be a hedgehog

Good to see Dox 👍

So I got ahold of BBM and they basically told me the same thing. I am also running that 4bar pressure regulator and all supporting mods for the stage upgrade. I just wanted to be sure that I didn't need to get a new cam for this chip or a new chip for the cam haha

Oh Keyo, all this extreme negativity, he didn’t want advise on a concourse show wining, body job cost estimate 😂😂😂😂

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Been tinting rear lights

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Car looks sick bro! Love the colour aswell and the colour coded wheels!!! Looks spot on! is that a cheeky bench i spot in the back ground aswell? Home gym and corrado storage attached to each other. DREAM COME TRUE I envy that

Hang on to it just now, I'm just not ready to buy just now!!

That's gonna be a sod to repair.. That bit rarely breaks, it's always the 'finger/plunger' that snaps. The main problem is that it has a pressed in pin that's bigger than the other, smaller pins that secure the finger bit that opens the lock, which means that it's a sod to drill out and then secure it back in. I've done one or two but after a bit, the pin always backs out again leaving you as you were before.. I've got a few spare if you want to try and repair the handle, let me know and i'll pop one in the post. Almost forgot a very important bit, always grease the components throughly and make sure that the components move freely without any tight spots, some of those repair kits available on the net are utter crap. Also make sure that the door itself doesn't shut too tightly as this will also strain the mechanism alot, loosen the striker if ness.

You bring up a very good point (PCD) and one which I had overlooked! :lol:

that g60's was a good deal, i love my mk1 golfs and remember seeing mass's up for sale on Facebook, lovely editions, but still nowt like driving the corrado....whats your thoughts mass? p3rks good luck with the hunt

Welcome, nice Storm Grey, bit of info here if you havn't already seen it >> http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?84779-Storm-Grey-VR6-with-B12

Looks a lovely example . Welcome along to the forum .

To put it simply: do you go to concerts and face away from the stage? Do away with the rear fills and focus on the best speakers and front stage your pockets can justify. Those rears will not be missed with a proper front stage setup.

Jim - it's £81 on Carparts4less and there is £10 off a £75 spend using a code on the front page!!

Spoke to someone called Moses. Friendly chap and managed to sort me out a much better price than any one else so thanks guys. Saved over £130.

I just remembered that I have a complete steering lock with new key which I'll sell you (for a very good price!) if you need it... it's boxed and has never been fitted, just sat on my shelf for god knows how long! Hope that there's not too much damage and you get it back soon... 8)

Worth noting that GSF sell these rubber bushes for a couple of pennies too! My old Rocco had a bush that was made of foam and disintegrated when I was doing 70 on a dual carriageway!....Had to limp off the road using only the old manual choke as a way of getting any power!

I was looking around for info and stumbled across this, it makes for an interesting read if you like the VW 24V V6 engines :-) http://www.scribd.com/doc/103127521/7/Crankcase-breather-system

Managed to dismantle clean resolder and repair this. Will post some pics shortly, but as David said they're glued together, as well as having a locking 'lip' on the inside. Heat with a hairdryer for as long as you can hold it. Then use some jewellers screwdrivers down each of the longer sides. Carrefully but firmly hold the washer nozzle and gently ease it out of the outer casing. On mine the connection had corrodes, but this was cleaned with emery cloth and the cable resoldered and supported with heat shrink. Be careful when removing the connectors that sit either side of the heater block as they can be easily damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ---------- using the hairdryer has the added advantage of rejuvenating the colour from a faded grey back to black! Also gives you a chance to polish the area where the nozzle sits.

I replaced mine today and it was very simple indeed. The only tool you need is a screwdriver and that's simply to prise off a couple of clips on each strut. There is no screwing involved and no spannering needed. I took some pictures as I did it so hopefully it will explain the process in an easy to understand way. The pictures are of the right hand side of the hatch. 1) Support the hatch - Open the hatch and support it in some way or get someone to hold it for you. Mine stayed open even on one strut but there's no guarantee yours will. I secured mine by tying a rope around it and supporting it from the garage rafters. 2) Remove the circlip - With the hatch open take a look at the strut where it meets the hatch by the window. It is held in place by a pin. The pin is prevented from coming out by a circlip on the outer edge. Prise the circlip off using a flat headed screwdriver. I'm afraid I don't know if they are special clips or whether you could use anything the same size. I'd guess you could use anything of a similar size but mine didn't break so I reused them. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51366[/ATTACH] 3) Remove the pin - Now the circlip has been removed you should be able to push the pin out. To remove it simply push it towards the middle of the car. I found mine came out easier by pushing the hatch upwards a little so that the weight was taken off the pin. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51367[/ATTACH] 4) Catch the falling strut - Once the pin is removed then get ready to catch the strut as it will swing downwards quite fast. 5) The other end is held in place by another clip- Now take a look at where the bottom end of the strut is held in place at the body end. It is connected to a ball joint. You need to pull it off the joint but it is held in place by a clip on the actual strut itself. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51368[/ATTACH] 6) Remove the ball joint clip - The strut won't come off until you release the clip on the back of the strut. I did this by sliding in a flat headed screwdriver and loosening it. The clip didn't come off completely but did loosen enough to allow me to wiggle the strut around until it came off. I had to keep the screwdriver pressed into the clip while wiggling it at the same time. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51369[/ATTACH] And it was as simple as that. Installing the new struts is obviously the reverse of that process. I used struts from Veedubmachine. They seem ok and much cheaper than the VW equivalents. I've not compared them to new VW struts but they seem fine to me.

No doubt the price does as well.

It was a very late VR so I'm pretty convinced the connector will be the same, wish I'd made a note of the P/N now :lol: I'll let you know asap :) No worries on the engine and box! Tom