Leaderboard

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Started the re-assembly

Sorry Chiswick, my bad memory! Haha yup I'll pop over and get them, if they're at the same price 😉 Post up some pics of your car whenever you have time Hasan

That looks fine. 👌 Does the job and is protected

From the VIN number, mine was produced 342 from the end of the production run so they were probably using up the parts they had left, and I’ve owned it since it was less than five years old so I expect it’s the original one too as it was too new for things to have started breaking! No UK cars were built with a/c but mine is definitely 2 plug and I’m sure that both plugs were wired when I fitted the Climatronic, I just had to add extra wires to the smaller plug.

The OEM FRP is 4 bar, and sits on the right hand side of the fuel rail - from your picture it looks like right location and clip, but there should only be a very small vacuum host attached to a nipple, not that big hose. To remove it, take out the clip and use plumbers pliers to gently rock it out - use some silicone lubricant or penetrant spray first - but don't lever it with a screw driver as the circular housing is very soft metal and can deform easily. I guess if you are replacing, it doesn't matter too much if you damage the old one a bit.

Hi, My G60 pump is the same 4 bar VDO unit, , it was bought from a e-bay trader more than 10 yrs ago who sold dealers old stock etc, it was a Genuine VDO Unit, I didn't fit it for 10 years (!), and it had acquired a couple of tiny cracks, they had not been there when I looked at it a few years ago, so must be an plastic aging issue ( probably the same rubbish plastic used for the headlamp adjusting screws holder), no cracks around the fuel pipe junctions though, I will be taking it out again to redo the fuel hoses in tank, so will check again, may have to think about replacing it again! Attached a couple of pics.

No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!

What I normally do is cut off the original metal crimp and remove old rubber hose, then slip a brass fuel ferrule inside the rigid nylon hose which will prevent it crushing when you place your new rubber hose over the rigid hose then crimped with a stainless crimp or similar, this way ensures maximum fuel flow through the joint.

Welcome Jensen! I have just returned onto the forum and also looking forward to some shows and cruises this year with likeminded members based around the East Midlands! Finally finished my restoration late last year! Late 95 conversion also in black 😉

Got to love 11” discs on the rear,only just go under 15” wheels,(bit of caliper shaving) [emoji1]

Can’t be many of you one owners left. Looks like you’ve been looking after it well too. I’m guessing coil overs to make it so pretty and some body work done at some point and didn’t put the bump strips back as you liked the cleaner look, as do I.

Late bulged bonnet. Late wider arched front wings. Late bumper - body line goes straight and tapers out. Late headlamp again Rear arches are the same early and late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thread here. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/does-your-mk4-g60-flywheel-and-vr6-clutch-engage-too-closely-to-to-the-floor.141405/page-3 Everywhere I look says the c number is compatible . Whether you have to change another part for it to be compatible Im not sure.

This is why deals should be done in plain sight on the forum, then go to PMs for payment and addresses etc

A quick hello from a returning Corrado owner, although it was 25 years ago! Picked a Vr6 up in March, I’m a member on the Corrado club and It was well known on there and I think the previous owner posted on here too. Although already a clean car wanted to take it to the next level so have been refurbing all the underside slowly. Hopefully get it too some shows next year to meet you guys 😁

Also I'm thinking of running BKR5EKUP plugs, any different recommendation? I pu those in mine, very happy with them 👍

Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425

I looked on the website and for you and could not see one in Spain. Maybe call them and ask for help. https://stockpiezasvw-audi.com/en/

Corrado VR6 Storm in Mystic Blue. Car was bought from an enthusiast, I found it after 2 years of searching. To go over the car itself : Standard parts : Standard Storm parts, Mystic Blue paint, Black Leather interior, Storm detailing, BBS Solitaire wheels, Steel kickplates.... ALSO and not part of the standard extra's the dealer option Air Con, which is still in good working order. Done before I bought it : AMD work done within 2 years of it being bought, still produces 10-15hp more than standard, checked with Stealth rolling road a few years back. Silicon hoses where needed. Schrick Inlet manifold. Koni Suspension. Alpine head unit. Performance HT leads. Corrado Storm mats. And what I have added : Headlamp loom upgrade. Front and rear brake upgrade - front to 288mm and rear to MK4. Heater Control illumination. SWG Scuttle panel. Steering wheel refurbished. Replaced alarm with Cat 1 as previous alarm was malfunctioning. Chains and clutch done some 40k miles previous. Gearbox rebuild at approx 140k miles. Bare metal respray and new windscreen around 155k miles. New Bosch Battery. The car has a full service history having covered some 177,358 miles, I have 2 large binders full of history. Rear Spoiler works without a problem- both manual and automatically, Sunroof works sliding and tilt, although internal panel does not go up with tilt. Wing Mirrors work without a problem. Car drives and accelerates without issue. Leather interior in good condition considering age. Only draw backs are the heater that does not work on '2' which is a copper connection issue, a new heater control module can be sourced from German Heritage. Internal sunroof panel does not lift on tilt. Repaired rip in bottom rear of front passenger seat which I inherited from previous owner, never caused an issue, size of about 50p. MOT'd until April 2021. I have some extra parts as well for this that could be offered to the purchaser at a greatly reduced price. It breaks my heart to sell this but I am in a position that it needs to go, I will NOT accept silly money and can hang onto it as long as is necessary to get the right price. I think this is a very rare beast, not just because its the best Storm colour combination - Mystic Blue with Black Leather but also because of the Schrick manifold and the Air Con. Don't miss out... Offers over £7250. NO offers from outside UK will be accepted, all monies paid whether cash/cheque/bankers draft/Paypal will need to be processed by my Bank before the car is released. Car is advertised elsewhere so I reserve the right to withdraw this advert at any time. Buyer to arrange collection upon payment clearance.

It’s behind the battery to the left as you look at it from the front of the car. Take the battery out to get proper access. Mine looked like this before I cleaned it up.

Thanks and your right, you know how special they are when the lorry driver who comes to pick it up is nearly in tears when he sees it, then spends 20 mins telling you what a brilliant car they are. Normally his fist pick up's go on the top deck but he said they can get damaged by trees so he was going to reserve that spot for all modern boring crap (his words) he was picking up next, didn't want the Corrado to get damaged. ( nice gesture but i think your too late mate).

No not from factory, should be an early bonnet for 1991 so must have been replaced in the past. May or may not be an issue depending on why it was replaced, without really looking at the car that's hard to judge. The bonnet is open in the pics that's why there's a large gap. I'm with you on the gear knob though, not my cup of tea but then two of my Corrados have had aftermarket gearknobs fitted (until I replaced them back to OE), doesn't really mean anything it's just like replacing the steering wheel and down to personal taste.

Santa came early! (Or late!!) Pretty pleased with the powder coating, for £120 it seems like a bargain! There is some pitting on the rear axle & tank straps but that obviously couldn't be helped, they're not new after all. The subframe and smaller bits look brand new though, really pleased with how they've come out. Most of the bolts have been picked up from VW (the ones that were available) or delivered from Heritage or further afield - had to get some from Germany which is as mental as the delivery cost! Still a couple to come but almost all there now. Brand new genuine grille as well so I now have all parts to de-Storm it. Don't think I will now though, just because I don't want to damage the paint removing badges! New sump as well cos mines looking a little rough. Hopefully finish the underseal/painting this weekend so I'll get some pics before reassembly begins!

I have my fan out the car still. The only markings on it are A52/C2. I could happily send people pictures, but have GIVEN UP TRYING ON HERE ...

Only just noticed this thread, the linkage on my wife's corrado went about a year ago and I used one of the clips that you posted above wipers still work great and the car gets used daily

I'm very new to the scene as just been able to get to the age where I can insure my valver for a sorta reasonable price, I've paid my subscription to the CCGB and like the members that we have, also on the Corrado forum too. I'm sad to see this situation, as I'd love to get going to some meets and see some cool cars and being able to show my car too (as you lot are the only ones that will appreciate it lol). Problem is as I suppose it is with most members is getting the cars to shows, being the drive or the fact that the car has broke again. I'm in that boat unfortunately, lots of work to do and recovering from a motorbike accident doesn't help either. I like the CCGB site but I do spend most of my time on here, but I do find I struggle to interpret the calendar on the CCGB website and how I'm able to sign up to events (probably it's very simple, just me being an idiot). And again, I'm from Oxford ways, and some shows will be a struggle to get too but you can't really seem to help that as we have members all over the place. And Jim as for the magazine I didn't even know you had one! I'd be very interested to have a read and also add some content to help out. Hopefully once I'm a bit more mobile I'd like to do my car up and I'm even going down the air ride route so some members might be interested.

Have a late style front indicator brand new in box surplus to requirements. £40 posted or £35 collect at VW Festival Harewood 😉 Thanks. Kip Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

Right, this is what I think you need per side: 3 x N 10657201 - oval head panel screw 6,3x16 3 x 443821699 - plastic clip for screw to screw into and 5 x N 01396921 - oval head panel screw 4,8x16 5 x N0116653 - washer 5,3x15x1,6 You can probably just get away with the first two line items. Get your dealer to show you the parts diagram to make sure they have the right ones.

Hi there I have one but would need to check wiring can do so at weekend if you haven't been sorted by then

After what feels like forever, I have some progress (touch wood!)... The newly rebuilt charger from Only Charged Dubs arrived yesterday so it was all hands to the pump to get it fitted before the weekend. Got the old one removed (again) and then fitted the new one, fitted the new oil feed and return pipes and carried out an engine flush and oil change with the correct grade of oil 10w40 Semi Synthetic. Primed the new charger as per the instructions, and then let the car idle and got the engine up to temperature to check for leaks etc. After a few adjustments, it was started again and after a few minutes I slowly increased the revs from idle upto 1000rpm, 1500rpm, 2000rpm and then 2200rpm when I heard what can only be described as a scary noise! Almost like a buzzing from the charger area. Checked the oil feed pipe, yep plenty of oil in there. By this time, it was getting late and I'd had enough for one evening, so I packed everything away and thought I'd tackle it again in the morning with after some sleep... Saturday morning and I started the car up and again let it idle up to temperature, another quick check in the daytime for leaks was also done. Increased the revs as I had done the previous day and the noise returned. I phoned OCD and spoke to Matt who said that you can sometimes get noises from the chargers after a rebuild, and to take the car for a drive and see how I got on, which I did. At first the noise remained, and I was ready to admit defeat when after a longer drive at a constant RPM, the noise got quieter! I carried on driving, and the more I was driving the better the noise got! Now I'm not sure if this is normal, or anyone has come across this before (would be good to hear if anyone has), but long story short I have covered 80 miles today with varying loads whilst keeping the RPM under 3000RPM as per the instructions for running in, and the noise has gone completely and I'm just left with the hollow G60 noise (hard to describe) that from what I can work out, is normal. So fingers crossed all is good now, and I can start to enjoy Corrado ownership again! I'm guessing that the oil just needed to get to all the right places within the charger and driving it more obviously got the lubrication to where it needed to go, and perhaps it was a slightly dry seal thats now been lubricated? Who know's I'm not that clued up on G-Laders but as long as that noise stays away and the boost stays within the engine then I'm happy!

Oooh ! . Well I've had two in a month . I must be good at something then.

Isn't it where someone ups your reputation? Say you are a constant source of useful nuggets then you up their reputation with the button below their user name info on the left (up and down arrow). This way a new user would be able to gauge how good/reliable the information that user is posting actually is.

The 02M diff shaft is bigger diameter than the O2A, so I don't think you can use O2M cups. For what it's worth, I used bog standard GKN replacements from GSF / EuroCarParts on my VR6 Turbo years ago and they're still going strong. But if you want mega strong, here are a couple of options: Best and strongest shafts / CVs - http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/volkswagen GKN do uprated shafts and joints too - http://www.gknservice.com/global/motorsport/cv_shafts_joints.html

Top tip Steve - thank you! Will order from there, rather than ECP then as it'll come out much cheaper. Though I'm now a little more less convinced it's the MAF. I took the car out this evening and prior to starting it up, pulled the MAF and it started at quite high revs (around 1200) and I could hear that same occasional pop / misfire once every couple of seconds. I reconnected the MAF and the revs came down a little but otherwise seemed the same. I decided enough of nannying the car tonight and did take it for a bit of a thrash without really wringing it's neck and it drove great - the engine pulls extremely well at all revs.. low down and higher up, though I never really took it past 5000RPM. Sounded lovely on song too - had forgotten just how good the VR6 sounds. There's definitely something not 100% and sure it's electrical rather than anything more sinister. It's just this noticeable, very slight misfire at idle, and also I find at lower revs and part throttle when driving at say 30MPH it feels a bit like.. not comfortable.. very slightly hesitant and a touch jumpy.. like it wants you to either be on the throttle or off the throttle and part throttle seems difficult for the car somehow? And lastly.. idle.. seems to take a LONG time to settle down to the lower VR6 idle speed of 650RPM.. it won't do it until the car is fully warmed up, and instead runs on a faster idle. And then when it has settled down to the correct idle, despite the revs being locked solid where they should be there's quite a lot of vibration into the cabin - like it 'feels' like the engine is misfiring a bit and you can feel it kicking through into the cabin. Will be interesting to stick the loan coil pack on and see if that improves how it feels. It does have this vague whiff of coil pack about it. Sorry for rambling on - just now having done the engine work, I'm on a bit of a crusade (or should that be folly!!) to sort out all the gremlins on the old girl and get her ship shape :)

In india !! With the unicorns

thats pants, great you got it back possibly soon.

Had a quick look at my car (9A) and thought its possible the dipstick might get in the way with the 8v one? I often find the compatibility tests are wrong, as are general listings. They go both ways-they say it wont fit and it does and more often, they say it fits and its the wrong part!!

I believe you can use something along the lines of: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-805-Volkswagen-Speaker-Adaptor-Lead-Cable-Stereo-CD-/150566801843?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 You may find this item much cheaper somewhere else thought.

Sounds like you've a sticky piston. Maybe the handbrake adjustment ? Worth checking them all.

Hi all, and welcome to THE Corrado Forum 2.0 :) What's happened?!?! I hear you cry. Well, we've changed forum software from phpBB (a free forum bit of kit, nice, but a bit lacking in features now) to vBulletin - a very comprehensive forum / site software suite that will allow us to give users a much greater experience (but sadly, isn't free!). One of the cons of this process is that, I'm sorry to say, your Avatars have been lost (please don't cry) but also you had to reset your password. This is due to the software not being able to copy the encrypted passwords from phpBB to vB. It's done pretty much everything else though. There are a couple of 'faults' at the moment which Dom (dinkus) and I are working on: The banner - yeah, work in progress! Attachments from the old software aren't being shown inline of posts Smilies from the old software not correctly copied There's a couple of other quirks too - if you had a font size change in your post or signature - it's gone a bit crazy now! You'll have to change that manually. But, to the pros - this is where this software will help the CF community become great: Blogs! You can create your own Blog - perfect for Builds, How-Tos Reputation - don't recognise someone by their username, or are you new to the site yourself? With this, other members can vote up or down your reputation - making you a saint, or a sinner, of the forum Coming Soon: Front Page site. A news portal highlighting great threads, VW news, and anything and everything that will interest users Coming Soon: Facebook Connect - login using just your Facebook ID, and 'Like' posts, threads, pictures, plus have links posted on your FB wall to share to your friends outside of the CF community plus much much more in the background which makes this site so much better for the Moderators and Users. So, have a look around, have a play - and please feel free to post back any issues you may have in this thread. Thanks!

Thanks for stepping up! I think it's just a case of everyone getting used to the new format- the forum was similar with past face lifts. Takes a few weeks for posting to get back to what it was before the change. Gonzo, any progress?

so now all the prep is out of the way i turned to the engine wiring. firstly remove the engine plastics then the accelerator cable unplug and remove the isv unplug the connectors on the throttle body 6mm allen socket gets the four allen bolts off the throttle body, remove the body , 6mm allen bolt on the side of the manifold which holds the earth bracket and one again into the back of the head remove these. 6 x 6mm allen bolts that hold the front of the manifold on remove these disconnect the oil breather pipe on the right hand side disconnect the air temp sensor on the right hand side disconnect vacum pipe on the right hand side the manifold can now be removed. while i was at it i had an old metal rocker so i painted it to match the obd 2 one just so it look neater this job takes ?? 10-15 minuets engine bay looked like this with rocker removed get the obd2 engine wiring harness and familiarise yourselves with it, its going to be manky and oily i removed the multi pin conector from the metal housing as i wanted to paint it and it was manky i then removed the fuel injector plugs one at a time and replaced with the obd2 plugs one at a time. i used the vr6's fuel rail and injectors from the obd1 set up. again unplug the blue and yellow temp plugs from the housing and pull the loom out from under the coil pack around the back of the head and it should all come away quite nicely. plug in the obd2 plugs from the end of the fuel rail relocate the loom all the way around the head and place the multi pin connector back in the housing (i did this with the housing removed from car 3x 10mm bolts) at this stage you should replace the rocker cover and refit the manifold the loom then will be easy to put back into place connect up the obd2 throttle body and make sure all the plugs on the obd2 engine wiring loom are plugged in and everything is nice and secure. double check you have the accelerator cable guide on the inlet manifold. you can refit the cable now if you like its an easy task. now the best bit get the new and improoved obd2 chopped up loom but the loom hasnt been taped up yet?? i know its a ball ache but i think this is the best way as there are a few plugs still left on the loom which you dont know you might use and a dummy run just to make sure everything works is justifiable, pass the obd2 plugs through the bulk headand dont worry they only plug in in certain locations due to the way the plugs are deigned!! now the important bit all four plugs are in the fuse box. the white wire with purple tracer (this is the speed sensor wire) on the inner corrado loom needs to be connected to the golf loom (same colour wire) this bit of wire will need to be extended by about 6 inches. i cut the plug off of the corrado loom that we took out of the car, and added it to the golf loom, this then just plugs in nicely. look for a twin yellow plug it will have a grey wire with a white tracer and a yellow wire, the golf loom will have a grey wire with a white tracer, this needs to be connected to the grey wire with the white tracer on the corrado loom this connects the obd diagnositcs PLEASE NOTE IF YOU ARE CONVERTING A PREVIOUSLY AUTO CAR THE GREY WIRE WITH WHITE CHASER STARTS AT THE BLACK CONNECTION BLOCK BEHIND THE CENTRE CONSOLE WHICH IS CLIPPED TO THE METAL PLATE THAT THE CONSOLE IS SCREWED INTO. THIS WIRE WILL BE CASED IN A BLACK PLASTIC SHROWED. TRACE THE WIRE FROM HERE AROUND THE SHIFTER ACROSS THE CENTRE TUNNEL INFRONT OF THE DRIVERS SEAT , ALONG THE DRIVERS SILL AND IT WILL TERMINATE IN THE AUTO ECU MULTI PIN CONNECTOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WALL BEHIND THE BONNET PULL. TAKE OUT THE WIRE FORM THE MULTI PIN CONNECTOR AND CONNECT IT TO THE GREY /WHITE WIRE FROM THE OBD2 LOOM THAT STICKS THROUGH THE BULK HEAD. the big fat red wire with the blue tracer on it that comes through the bulk head on the obd2 loom needs to be plugged into the top right hand side of the fuse box the blue wire with the white tracer also has a blue plug on it this needs to be plugged into the small block of four connectors attached to the front (top) of the fuse box again this wire might need to be extended ok with everything connected in the fuse box double check and make sure you have plugged everything in on the engine side of things this is ready to fire up now , make sure nothing is dangling in the way of anything in the engine bay connect the battery back up . turn the key listen can you hear the fuel pump? do the relays click on turning the ignition on? can you hear the throttle body make a humming noise? good fire it up so its running all thats needed to do now is to tidy things up lets start with getting rid of this get rid of these the yellow one can go with this done you can start wrapping the loom i used self amalgamating tape 2 x rolls cost £10 i started with the plugs down by the starter motor and worked my way back to the fuse box yes the loom was still in the car as i wanted to get the loom back into the most original position i could... top tip start at the plugs by the starter motor and work up to firt join. then start from multi pin plug on engine loom and work back to first join then wrap the joint and continue up to the 2nd join work from th eecu plug back to 2 nd join and then wrap that join ....you get the idea . right so by now you might have already put back in the master and slave cylinder , this is ok if you have , the self amalgamating tape pulls the loom quite tightly together and now you have stripped out the crap it also makes the loom quite skiny so starting from the engine bay side wrap up as much of the loom as you possibly can even if you gently pull the loom through the bulk head until it wont go any further, then go in side the carand pull the loom back into the car wrap the loom in there and you will have then fully wrapped the obd2 loom place the gromet over the loom stick it in the hole and job done! replace all interior plastics and use existing cable ties to hold firm the loom in original position and your done enjoy your conversion! please feel free to add to this thread as my train of thought isnt exactly normal!! hope this has helped somebody out there..

bought myself some new coilpacks from tps, not cheap but better than being off the road again. Ill fit all new ones to the car and keep one use one as a spare and sell the others on. Struggled to get a heated seat loom so Ive got the parts to make one up instead.