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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

fb - I'm noticing more and more click bait, pages taking an age to load due to the amount adverts......... A1 created features with so much incorrect info........... On top of general poor advice / info being offered in groups (not Corrado groups ATM). Maybe the forums that survived could make a come back?

Dox, fendervg - Thanks very much for all your your help, am all done and lights are working as they should

As above - just test them with a 9v battery - the one that will be the switching wire that comes from the stalk will be the one that clicks. There is usually a small diagram on the relay as well. The feed will be permanent live from the battery. Check this page out - 86 is switched, 87 to headlights, 30 from battery (+, fused) and 85 to battery (-) https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Just to update on my banjo bolt situation.... After a short hospital stay I finally got a chance to look into getting the old girl sorted and to my surprise when I looked at the smaller of the two banjo bolts, the one I took off the car didnt have the small filter in it, so I presume at some point its been changed and not with an OEM bolt. Given the car ran fine, just going to run on that basis, so ordered a couple of HEL performance stainless steel ones and also ordered a couple of the large bolts from the LLL website, so thanks for those Matt it was very useful. No excuses for me now! Dougie

Well, a set of RS301’s became available so looks like the corrado won’t be standard for too long.

Good job 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 hopefully this solves your issue. Keep us updated when you do timing and adjust the CO pot on how it is running

Just to keep this updated, I have modelled an alternative to use with these circlips: 12mm x 10.45mm E Clips (DIN 6799) - Marine Stainless Steel (A4) (accu.co.uk) So I will get a test run done to try them out. Probably next month now, as I have been away and it's been an expensive month already. If they work OK, I will offer those for general sale. On the plus side the set I fitted to mine seem to be holding up well. Been on a couple of longer runs where they were needed in some heavy rain and don't seem to have any issues. All seem to still be nicely in place and keeping the linkage tight, with neither wiper fouling the windscreen trim. Very nice not to have the thuk, thuk, thuk accompaniment on a particularly rainy journey now!

Update, as I would have had to remove my "NOS", from about 2006 VDO Pump I mentioned I installed 18+ months ago to replace the fuel hoses (which I did change at the time , but stupid me, used the wrong hose, needs to be Submersible type, which I have now got Cohline 2190), it was just as well I did. The couple of small cracks noticed before install had spread like cancer, and given time probably the whole top cap would have broken apart, only the swirlpot top, where the return nozzle is affected, all the rest is fine, so its probably a different crappy plastic. See attached pictures, to me this evidence that the VOO NOS items, are probably not worth the risk, as even if the cracks are not there to start with, they could start sometime later. The Pump itself is ok, I have taken the unit apart completely to clean the filters, I obviously need to remove the old fuel (car has not been driven in 10+ years, has been started many times, but always on a low tank, and the fuel is now pretty horrible.! I may buy the JP Pump, and see if i can swap my VDO Pump into the JP casing, I would then have a spare pump.

Hi, My G60 pump is the same 4 bar VDO unit, , it was bought from a e-bay trader more than 10 yrs ago who sold dealers old stock etc, it was a Genuine VDO Unit, I didn't fit it for 10 years (!), and it had acquired a couple of tiny cracks, they had not been there when I looked at it a few years ago, so must be an plastic aging issue ( probably the same rubbish plastic used for the headlamp adjusting screws holder), no cracks around the fuel pipe junctions though, I will be taking it out again to redo the fuel hoses in tank, so will check again, may have to think about replacing it again! Attached a couple of pics.

yes i have nice yellow Billet 4s on my VR6 i absolutely love them, far superior to OE brakes & awesome performance i chose HiSpec as they were the only 4 pots i could get which would fit under the 15" speedlines as far as i know there are several reputable workshops that recommend HiSpecs for corrado's - pretty sure ive seen John Mitchell Racing fitting them to customers cars you can give them you full wheel spec & they will confirm if you can run 312's or tell you the max disc size for your setup i found them to be very helpful but i would say to not use their spacers if you need them as the cheap ones they did me were not hubcentric

I’ve no experience of this, I read the above as.... boxster “S” Rear will fit over 25mm disks rears need not to be reversed - Rear right fits front right - the nipple will remain at the top to expel air in the system when you bleed them (using front callipers you’d need to swap left to right to have the nipple at the top? Ie reversed). thats my take on what’s written in your quote, don’t shoot me if I’m wrong....

No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!

Thanks for the replies guys, It seems like there's a great deal of trust in Stealth Racing, but they are quite far away from me and it would cost a fair amount just to trailer it up there for a second opinion. As trust in the garage seems to play a big part in people's recommendations, I figure I'll let you guys know that it's at JMR racing. I've used JMR before for suspension work (back in 2007) and I believe that John knows his stuff, but I get the impression that he's a bit of a perfectionist and always starts off by recommending the premium option. I'm a perfectionist as well, but I'm not sure if I can justify the perfectionist price tag 😀 It seems like maybe a top-end rebuild rather than a full rebuild is the way to go,

It’s great to see that they chose the best colour 😎 I’m bias !

I don’t know the proper part number I’m afraid but couldn’t you use a speed nut or captive nut like below. https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/300330970?type=shopping&msclkid=d7e8d2334ec315c86d72b013b925bfc7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - Brands&utm_term=4579809529099503&utm_content=Shopping - Miscellaneous Engine Parts-1 - OE-Quality https://www.bing.com/search?q=captive+nut&form=APIPH1&PC=APPL

I have a bodywork guy coming to take a look at the car tomorrow. Once I have a price back then I will way up the odds of fixing up the car vs staying married!

YU is coming up blank on that site now for some reason, but that's the stock beige colour as in the photo. I bought my dye from here; https://www.liquidleather.co.uk/leather-dyes-c48/dyes-c91/leather-dye-1l-p144 In the options for checkout, it'll ask for the manufacturer and colour code. They have it on file so are able to mix it without you having to send something for them to match the colour against.

How comes you was rolling around on the floor taking pictures, had you fallen over. 😂😂🤣😂😘😂

Not for me mate, but a very kind gesture 👍

Oooo nice pic. We love freshly painted items more than xmas 😂

If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system

What a collection, love it My first car was a Land Rover. Stripped it down and put it back together with my dad. Sold it to my sister after 3 years and bought a XR3i, 3 years of that and then a G60. The Land Rover was a lot of fun to drive @ 18 but very cold in the depths of winter

Luis, I owned the car before C488ADO purchased it from me, it was an auto at the time but as far as Im aware never had porsche seats, It had grey recaros when I had it and i owned it for several years and used to show it on the cars stands at the VW shows im trying to remember when i sold it I definately owned it in 2008 as I have a photo of it at the house that I lived in then, I left there in 2010 and dont think I owned the car at that point, it was a very reluctant sale, a change of job meant I needed something newer and more reliable as I was going to see clients I searched for a long time before buying the car as she had to be a 95my blackberry vr6 the photo I have was taken 8th november 2008 showing the car 😉 also have a photo of her on the club stand at the tatton park show 4th jan 2009

This is what I had from back in the day: 357 919 369F - sensor for fan - in thermostat housing x 1 357 121 210 - plastic fan cowling x 1 1H0119137A - aux radiator fan belt x 1 171 121 276D - rubber washer for radiator x 2 N 903 059 01 - front bumper mounting bolts x 4 so 357 121 210 is the fan ring, I only needed one at the time - 357 means it's also used on the Passat, and I see some references to Seat Toledo etc.

The fuel pump relay also gets an ignition on signal from the ECU relay - if this is not there, then it won't bridge power to the pump - if you look at the diagram on the side of the relay, it will show you which pin is which, and you could check with a multimeter or test probe connected to a known good earth to see if this voltage is there - just checking, I think this is pint 85, the small one. I don't have the wiring diagrams to hand, but I think it's relay 167 that the signal comes from. Hope this helps - I've had a nightmare troubleshooting this stuff previously, but bridging is good to have the pump running permanently, lets you move the car and proves the pump is working etc., but you need to figure out if the relays are working and if the signals that switch them are there. Best of luck and hope it gets sorted.

Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425

The part number suffix (letter) can change to indicate a later version or substitution. Hella are a good brand - chances are the VW one is made by them or by Bosch, so I wouldn't worry about quality. The relay can go bad over time - a good way to test this is to jumper the connection the relay makes with a short length of wire - this should run your pump directly. It's a fairly common relay and should be easy to source.

Good to see Dox 👍

All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado. Just kidding. Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems. Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure. The main grounds to check or replace are: 1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic) 2: transmission bolt to frame 3: intake manifold to firewall 4: firewall to hood hinge 5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down. Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation. All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.

Oh Keyo, all this extreme negativity, he didn’t want advise on a concourse show wining, body job cost estimate 😂😂😂😂

The nothelles will be back.

Been tinting rear lights

Hey Guys, I'm still knocking around, and today have been trialing a newer forum platform and trialing a migration. Once I am happy that its good enough to start on as a base, I'll read-only this and begin the real migration and transfer so there will be interuptions this week (hopefully it'll be more a you can see but can't interact). My short term plans are: 1. Read-only unless you are a member 2. Membership will be £15 a year 3. Wiki's will make a come back 4. I'm going to get some help in terms of moderators / admins 5. Considering working with CCGB - Need to reply to the owner 6. Tapatalk - I hate it, but I'll try to include it again and clean it up. Thats on day 1 anyway. I need a solid base with less issues before I start looking at new things!

The bolts and speed clips are still available from all good VW garages.

Awesome. Payment and PM sent!

Hi all, Firstly - thanks for the donations - they do all help! I've always prided myself on keeping this forum clean - so I do try to keep the adverts and begging down to a minimum so you can all enjoy the site rather than get bombarded with pleas... But - to be fair - the link is at the bottom of every page - it's also in my and a couple of the Mods' signatures - so does get about the forum a bit! I think it's in the welcome PM too.... But, clearly not enough if you managed to miss it! Thanks again, though!

The colour looks sensational, nice and original. Welcome along

Go for them Mike, I'm in two minds weather to mod or not.

Boxed unused set of BBS RS301's Not rare corrado part but rare all the same.

I believe you can use something along the lines of: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-805-Volkswagen-Speaker-Adaptor-Lead-Cable-Stereo-CD-/150566801843?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 You may find this item much cheaper somewhere else thought.

That's the throttle damper, it plugs into the idle control valve (part #1) and stops the throttle snapping shut instantly when you take your foot off the gas. The little nubbin that connects to pipe #4 is solid - it doesn't connect in, it's just to support it mechanically. Pipe #4 is joined to the outer edge of the inlet elbow (the plastic or rubber bit in the top-left of the engine bay that connects the airbox to the throttle body), and once the idle control valve and damper have done their thing pipe #3 connects the air feed into the throttle body to allow it more or less air depending on how the idle's doing :) It's a pretty overengineered system and doesn't work very well, which is why the VR6 idle is so lumpy! They ditched it on the later OBD2 engines fitted to the Golf VR6es and did it all electronically :) Stone

Hi which part is it rod

i will have to have a look i think its just a bare hub

they look nice ive been thinking about doing a simler thing with a 2lt 8v vauxhall engine i blew 2 holes in the crank case :norty: one less vauxhall on the road :)