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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Hi. No problem, better late than never 😉. So this car tinkering time you speak of, do you have enough to share around ? Looking forward to more updates 🫡

Deposit taken so the car is now sold. Thanks for all the interest.

drop your name on here Triple relay uprated headlight looms - Page 14 - Forum Group-Buys - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net) i will send out some PM's to those who have put name down so far & try to get it moving along

I'm newbie soldering. I don't know how to do it better 😅

I’m sure Chris will reveal his method, but when I did this on my car, I used a wallpaper steamer with a nozzle attachment to soften the wax, and then wiped off with a cloth. I then used a degreaser and a cloth to remove the remainder. You can keep going with panel wipe if necessary, but I was happy to just reapply some fresh clear wax.

Thanks Geri a great friend of mine on here - always supported my builds with positive comments. I will be hanging about for sure mate - sure will drop down what I get - its an open book right now. Cars that I enjoy looking at shows. Merc 190 e cosy Sl r129 sl60 pre merger amg sl r107 e46 m3 cab saab carlsson 900 turbo ( love these ) very rare car . 911 perhaps but i tend to sell them after a year in fear the engine pops - bloody chocolate cylinders. Might even have a look at a Jap car for the first time- maybe even an alpha . Audi s2 coupe Audo coupe 5 cylinder red 177 bhp. Golf rallye blue Mk7 club sport S. Will have to be a finished project though im done with the 2 years process and costs of a project - the cars and new owners are the winners- I want to be that new winner owner now ha - get in enjoy and then sell on for the same price a few years later.

I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan

Parked my car at the local farm shop earlier then stood drooling over a 997 GT3 a few spaces down before I nipped in the shop. When I come out there’s a guy stood looking at the Corrado, “Love the car” he says, goes on to tell me he wanted one in the day but never had one etc etc. I get in to leave and he gets in his GT3, wish I’d realised, he might have done a straight swap!!!

good find m8 fastest owned - probably my modified VR but i think my modified & half stripped R53 supercharged mini would give it a run for its money. they both produce noise induced grins time after time! fastest ive been in - a few contenders; the nissan GTR i drove was crazy but then my old boss took me out in his modded porsche GT3, which covered ground so quickly it was incredible most interesting is a tough one - i still remember a ride in a 308 ferrari when i was about 10, had some great times in my uncles VW camper van but id go with my dads porsche 911 3.0 SC targa

Not for me mate, but a very kind gesture 👍

Aux. Pump is designed to run continuously whilst with the ignition on. 👍

It does look a clean looked after car. As Keyo says bridge the rad switch plug to bring the fans on if they don’t or one doesn’t there an issue with a relay unless he’s wired direct off of the existing fan plug. Do the above test and take some photos of the wiring, there’s a few ways he could have wired it up. When you press the override switch what happens then, do they both come on? You should be able to get both fans on without the ignition on as well simulating after run by bridging the rad sender plug.

no m8 im not far from birmingham - i will ask the guy next time i see him for you

I deleted an obvious spam attempt this morning. Watch out because the spammers will try to brute a moderator account to approve the post if they can - I had three attempts and lock outs over night. Maybe a good time to change your moderator passwords and make sure they are of a decent strength and complexity.

Merry Christmas one and all.

😂😂 great post. GLWS

This is the Gamma IV, same as what Keyo has above. This has some nice features, 4x20w, CD changer control, greem dimmable lights, code protection and red anti-theft LED, telephone mute, speed dependent volume control (GALA) when connected to the the blue/white speed sensor signal and can be retrofitted with aux in, bluetooth or iPod adapter using the CD changer inputs - there's even a guy in Germany who retrofits a hardwired aux in cable with 3.5mm jack and Bluetooth 5.0 module for a pretty penny, which means you can retain the CD changer. The cassette flap makes it a lot less attractive to thieves than a fancier unit - and you can even play you Awesome Mix Vol. 1! There is an identical looking radio with blue/red illumination rather than the original green, so be careful to check this when buying.

Normally £100 - £150.

Well after 21years my original has been sold. I had been contemplating for some time now so a chat with my brother resulted in a trip to Shrewsbury and a rendezvous so he could take it back North. We were open to sensible offers, fundamentally it was more about finding the right individual who would continue to look after her. We think that has been achieved. So she is now in Cambridgeshire.

Why? Ok it's a KR, but aside from a wing and bit of paint on the front bumper it doesn't look that bad. It's been off the road for a number of years granted and it's not a great ad, but that doesn't mean it's unsalvageable, far from it. Some people want a project and will be happy to pay 2 -2.5k (which is my estimate of it from the pics) for something they can slowly restore. It's not always about end gain, appreciation or the investment, it's about enjoying the hobby and someone will only have a budget that will stretch so far to begin with. It's a decent enough starter for someone and if they swap the Recaros for a set of leather in fair condition, it'll look like a bargain. I've been in ownership long enough to know what can and can't be done with a bit of knowhow and enthusiasm.

Santa came early! (Or late!!) Pretty pleased with the powder coating, for £120 it seems like a bargain! There is some pitting on the rear axle & tank straps but that obviously couldn't be helped, they're not new after all. The subframe and smaller bits look brand new though, really pleased with how they've come out. Most of the bolts have been picked up from VW (the ones that were available) or delivered from Heritage or further afield - had to get some from Germany which is as mental as the delivery cost! Still a couple to come but almost all there now. Brand new genuine grille as well so I now have all parts to de-Storm it. Don't think I will now though, just because I don't want to damage the paint removing badges! New sump as well cos mines looking a little rough. Hopefully finish the underseal/painting this weekend so I'll get some pics before reassembly begins!

Just seeing if this picture works... my converted evaporator from a Mk4 Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Hi all, I've been away from the forum for a number of years now after selling my last Rado. At the time, my wife and I (now ex-wife sadly, we even met here on the forum) found we couldn't have children, so opted to adopt a dog (less expensive than kids, so more money for cars). Sadly he wasn't too keen on being in the back of a Rado, and we didn't think it'd be fair dragging him along to meets etc, and trips to the Pod. So, we sold the Rado and bought a Land Rover. I'm now with someone else, expecting our second child. The current mrs isn't into the Landy and green laning, so I've been considering getting back to the Rado scene, as she's more likely to be persuaded into joining me on that front. Having come back to the forum, I thought it would be good to find out how my last ride is doing. We sold it to a fellow enthusiast (I think he was already a member here) who had plans for it (thankfully not like the muppet/con man that bought my 1.8 16v.......also a member on here sadly), and I'd love to see how it looks now. So, if you're the current owner of the Rado in the subject title, please feel free to post some photos on this thread, I miss the car and would love to see it again, even if just a photo or two.

Give them a call on 01273 444000 Think they're open tomorrow? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Right, this is what I think you need per side: 3 x N 10657201 - oval head panel screw 6,3x16 3 x 443821699 - plastic clip for screw to screw into and 5 x N 01396921 - oval head panel screw 4,8x16 5 x N0116653 - washer 5,3x15x1,6 You can probably just get away with the first two line items. Get your dealer to show you the parts diagram to make sure they have the right ones.

that g60's was a good deal, i love my mk1 golfs and remember seeing mass's up for sale on Facebook, lovely editions, but still nowt like driving the corrado....whats your thoughts mass? p3rks good luck with the hunt

Hello , thankyou for the kind comments. Yeah it is a great car, there are a good few rare parts on the car as you guys will know are expensive and hard to come by. And rightly so it has been on eBay 3 times, but no one has been serious or genuine in veiwing the car which I do find slightly odd. Perhaps it's just a bad time to sell.

Isn't it where someone ups your reputation? Say you are a constant source of useful nuggets then you up their reputation with the button below their user name info on the left (up and down arrow). This way a new user would be able to gauge how good/reliable the information that user is posting actually is.

Nice,welcome :)

Lovely! Looks super clean!

The general rule usually is that if there is no history then just get it done for peace of mind. Mine is well overdue, only boosting half a bar via a gauge (mfa readings aren't always accurate. Although i'm capable of doing it myself i'd rather have the documentation.

The 02M diff shaft is bigger diameter than the O2A, so I don't think you can use O2M cups. For what it's worth, I used bog standard GKN replacements from GSF / EuroCarParts on my VR6 Turbo years ago and they're still going strong. But if you want mega strong, here are a couple of options: Best and strongest shafts / CVs - http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/volkswagen GKN do uprated shafts and joints too - http://www.gknservice.com/global/motorsport/cv_shafts_joints.html

Hi guys, I'm from Ireland but now living in Cape Town, South Africa. Corrados are VERY rare cars over here (I have seen 2 in 11 years and now own one of them!) so getting a one owner G60 was pretty sweet. Actually the PO broke down in front of me and I stopped to help, we got chatting and next thing you know I'd bought the car! It needs ALOT of love but I've got all the mechanical bits sorted, now it's just the interior and paint to sort out. Cheers Joe

If i had rs301s id have 2 locking wheel nuts on every wheel

hence why female cars are 'powered by fairydust!' when I got the rado' I gave the wife my looked after lupo and sold her car so now the little lupo's her daily, put some hard work into that little beast, I honestly wish I had sold it and let her drive whatever she wanted. its like watching your best mate getting beat up in the school playground! :bonk:

Hi Have a look at my thread for the conversion - Hope it helps http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82498

I have a late steering cowl in black you can have for nothing.

Got my pair today, very nice model and panels seem metal not plastic, one for the desk the other to keep for spares!

Sounds like you've a sticky piston. Maybe the handbrake adjustment ? Worth checking them all.

People will tell you a grand for the interior as a full setup with door cards etc But in the current clim you won't get that For example everyone say a schrick vgi is worth £850ish but the last 2 I have seen sold for £500 and £600 so well off £850

Managed to dismantle clean resolder and repair this. Will post some pics shortly, but as David said they're glued together, as well as having a locking 'lip' on the inside. Heat with a hairdryer for as long as you can hold it. Then use some jewellers screwdrivers down each of the longer sides. Carrefully but firmly hold the washer nozzle and gently ease it out of the outer casing. On mine the connection had corrodes, but this was cleaned with emery cloth and the cable resoldered and supported with heat shrink. Be careful when removing the connectors that sit either side of the heater block as they can be easily damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ---------- using the hairdryer has the added advantage of rejuvenating the colour from a faded grey back to black! Also gives you a chance to polish the area where the nozzle sits.

:D It'll be back on the road in no time! Good luck Stu!

Christ! Thanks for that, really useful info there for all VR owners!