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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Hey up, I'm not sure I understand you. These are pic's of my throttle cable (1992 G60) - does it look like yours [assuming yours is G60]? Phil

Check for vac leaks

You sorted it, so a great result

I don’t know 16vs tbh. from cold it will run ignoring lambda until a set temp, I’d be looking for an air leak. maybe drop Crasher a pm? He knows 16v engines and there issues

This is what Cressa is referring to: The definitive VR6 cooling guide - Engine Bay - The Corrado Forum. Most of it carries over to the 4-pot cars (radiator switch, fan controller and sensors) - just ignore the auxiliary electric pump. The blue sensor tells the ECU the temperature. If you can get to it, disconnect the housing and measure the resistance of the sensor with a meter. Cold values are larger resistances (250 Ohms) and warmer values approach zero Ohms. (If I remember it correctly!) Or if you have VCDS or such like - see what temperature the ECU believes it is. Looking further the 16v seems to have both sensors in one 4-pin sensor..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126331388530?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S_62K1mTR2C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=SuQ1hX6ZSQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Seems a good price for a genuine set of mats. 3 available. I have rubbers so am torn between the two...

Started the re-assembly

Be sure to follow the Bentley when setting the CoPot and things of that nature. Only reason I say this is because, I had played with my CoPot at one point (set it to 500ohm because it was in the thousands for whatever reason. I am almost positive one of the previous owners set it that high but I am unsure) and mine did not run very well. My AFR was way off. So just be sure to follow the Bentley when it comes to setting that mixture up. If you don't have one, I recommend getting an AFR gauge as this will make it easier to set the CoPot when adjusting everything. If you need help with it at all, feel free to PM me here or on the Vortex as well (same username on there).

I asked in VWVortex like Popeye775 said and the first answer said yes it is factory.

Looks immachttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155661035229?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Df316b4877e9f4f779d675eb8bf24e0bc%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D155661035229%26itm%3D155661035229%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042ulate, 58K miles £24,000

That is my thought as well. Try to track down a busted wire or connector in there somewhere. Try testing the wiring and while you are testing it, wiggle the wires around a little bit to see if you have a drop in voltage or not. If you do, then you know that you possibly have a short somewhere in the wiring

If you have the K brace you will have to drill though mate . The trimport looks bolt on bolt off . Here it is anyway. https://www.bafmotorsport.co.uk/products/volkswagen-golf-mk2-k-brace?variant=38007283056793&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-27&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J-SBhCrARIsAH0yMZjAbYUnFPLhMC0SmwT_08eJK1ib2D-MiDne2-yM2Ps38PuBa2dXty8aAuriEALw_wcB This video is how they mount fittings etc.

Brilliant, I can’t wait to see this. Looks like weather behaved as well 🙂.

I'm sure Fuzz appreciated your input Kip! Plus seeing your absolutely astounding car would give the guys a target

Done now - deleted attachments. For the record, the VR only has the one in tank fuel pump - the 16v and G60 had an in tank lift pump and the main pump mounted underneath the body where the fuel filter is. The ECU relay is #109 and the fuel pump relay #167/67 - look at the side, they will have a diagram showing the wire and terminal connections and how the relay is switched.

Finally fitted a stainless washer to the ARB drop link. Hopefully if it ever fails it can not spin round and rip my CV boot, again. I love preventative maintenance .Top tip Just need to do the other side sometime

It's a good question and to be honest - it's hard to say! I did the fans at the same time as I did the engine rebuild so I haven't got a direct comparison on a fresh engine. They are the same size as the stock fans (11"); you might just be able to squeeze in 12" if you wanted to go bigger. Currently my engine temp sits at about 100 C in slow moving traffic in this weather which is OK I think. To be honest I thought it would be a little bit better than that what with the engine rebuild, but I don't know what would be considered low and high temps; however, I'm sure you'd get this with a stock fans as well. When I first got the car 10 years ago I am sure it ran fairly cool in traffic, around 90-100 (memory might be playing tricks there though!). I'm sure other people could confirm but 100 doesn't seem wildly low or beyond the realms of the OEM ones, but then who knows, if I had stuck with OEM fans I might be getting temps of 110 or so. I did have issues with engine temps sitting in traffic for long periods in the couple of years before I started the rebuild, to the point where the engine would start to run badly, and be on the verge of cutting out. But that was with a tired old engine so not really a good comparison. I also need to do an engine flush as I think deposits have built up in the rad (the old pipes I took off were coated) which won't help, so the fans might be battling against that. For the moment I am a little bit sceptical about whether it was worth it: It was a bloody hassle to sort (although would be a lot easier now I've done it once and got a guide), it's not really that much lighter (if you were thinking of that - about 1kg less), and doesn't seem to be greatly cooler. Think they might be a little bit quieter.

This is why deals should be done in plain sight on the forum, then go to PMs for payment and addresses etc

as luck would have it there is one spare loom available as he made an extra one it would be £83 posted & is as the other with OE connectors all round pls let me know if you would like it 🙂

Looks like the seller of the car has carried out some great renovation work to the car- pretty sure I can see a new rad in there. Looks like the paint if fresh to - I would say they have spent a lot of money on this car at least 7k plus/

Hello there, yes you can fit Corrado VR6 70ltr fuel tank into Corrado's with 4 cyl engine's and vice versa, the early Corrado's had the 55ltr fuel tank, then in 1992 the tank volume was increased to 70ltr. The problem you're going to have is the fuel pressure, as the 16v as you already know has two fuel pumps, low pressure lift pump in tank roughly 3 bar of pressure, then high pressure fuel pump under car in swirl pot, which pumps at 5.2 to 5.6bar for KR 16v or 6.1 to 6.6 bar for 9A 16v, the 16v injection system is multipoint but is mechanical injection, final fuel delivery is via fuel distributor, which is controlled by fuel differential pressure governor/regulator, if the high pressure fuel pump doesn't deliver pressure as stated above, then the fuel injectors won't open as they need the correct specified pressure range. The VR6 injection system including the 2.0 16v ABF only have the one fuel pump in fuel tank, pump pressure is roughly between 3 and 4 bar, this system again is multipoint injection but has electrically operated injectors, that receive signals via ECU. I think you can possibly fit a MK3 Golf fuel tank into a MK2 Golf, but I've read on other forums the filler neck doesn't quite line up fully with fuel flap opening, but then others have said they fit fine, so regarding MK3 Golf tank into Corrado yes it may well be possible but how well it'll fit I'm not sure. But like I say you'll still need the high pressure fuel pump under car for your K-jet 16v injectors, unless you're able to fit high pressure pump in tank. MK3 Golf with VR6 (AAA) and 2.0 16v (ABF) I think use same fuel tank as the ABF fuel pump is very similar to VR6. Corrado fuel tank Part number 535 201 075H Length 910mm Width 630mm Height 620mm 55 litre tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1988/89 to 1992 (weight 6 kg) Corrado fuel tank Part number 535 201 075AB / 535 201 075AE Length 950mm Width 630mm Height 615mm 70 litre tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol. From 1992/93 to 1995/96 (weight 9.5 kg) Hope this helps Si

I'm sure there's another thread on this regarding the handbrake cable lengths. From memory I think what I've listed below is correct ? Handbrake cable (up to VIN/Chassis 50-S-000361) Part number 1H0 609 721A 1988 to 1991/92 1605mm cable length Handbrake cable (after VIN/Chassis 50-S-000362) Part number 1H0 609 721E 1991/92 to 1995 1613mm cable length Hope this helps Si

No not from factory, should be an early bonnet for 1991 so must have been replaced in the past. May or may not be an issue depending on why it was replaced, without really looking at the car that's hard to judge. The bonnet is open in the pics that's why there's a large gap. I'm with you on the gear knob though, not my cup of tea but then two of my Corrados have had aftermarket gearknobs fitted (until I replaced them back to OE), doesn't really mean anything it's just like replacing the steering wheel and down to personal taste.

Updated list: 1 ChrisL 2 Cressa 3 Robrado974 4 VW rule 5 Todge 6 1xshaunx1 7 VR6 South (potentially) 8 Ferny427 9 Corroda 10 Neil20vtc 11 Culshaw 12 Ferarrifeet 13 Dragon green 14 STU175 15 fendervg 16 jonnyHull 17 easypops 18 Erallus 19 James 20 blue95 21 volksworld13 22 spen 23 ger040 24 Keyo 25 g0ldf1ng3r 26 StueyB 27 Krishen 28 Mystic Rado 29 gotvach 30 edd (drivers side) 31 ben_wooduk (drivers side) 32 JamieG60Davison 33 Billzeebub 34 akacheesy 35 34jezr 36 Corrado16ved 37 kingKenny100 38 peacedub 39 kalzter 40 Storm Warning 41 1.8tCorrado 42 pfnsht 43 GUS 44 Timbo 45 Madnick 46 Carrots 47 gianlucavolt 48 ChrisDwyer 49 TimA 50 Duncan 51 1966robbo 52 stereomoe 53 branty 54 LikeaG60 55 Gublonge 56 EmGreenVR6 57 Jamie 57 is a decent amount, I’ll send the list to Classic Parts on Monday and start hassling them again.

I bought one of the all aluminium ones from eBay for £150 as I was having trouble with leaks from the elbow flange and these come with that flange welded on as part of it. Didn't need to modify the car, only make a couple of brackets to fit it in replacement of the small L shaped brackets. The fan assembly bolted straight on and the bottom locating pins are in the right place. I will post some photos of this Friday if your interested?

Hi all, I've been away from the forum for a number of years now after selling my last Rado. At the time, my wife and I (now ex-wife sadly, we even met here on the forum) found we couldn't have children, so opted to adopt a dog (less expensive than kids, so more money for cars). Sadly he wasn't too keen on being in the back of a Rado, and we didn't think it'd be fair dragging him along to meets etc, and trips to the Pod. So, we sold the Rado and bought a Land Rover. I'm now with someone else, expecting our second child. The current mrs isn't into the Landy and green laning, so I've been considering getting back to the Rado scene, as she's more likely to be persuaded into joining me on that front. Having come back to the forum, I thought it would be good to find out how my last ride is doing. We sold it to a fellow enthusiast (I think he was already a member here) who had plans for it (thankfully not like the muppet/con man that bought my 1.8 16v.......also a member on here sadly), and I'd love to see how it looks now. So, if you're the current owner of the Rado in the subject title, please feel free to post some photos on this thread, I miss the car and would love to see it again, even if just a photo or two.

They do crop up every now and again. You're looking at around £750-850 for a full leather interior inc door cards. I too was looking for a leather interior and a couple have come up over the last year to give you an idea. I've decided against leather though as I don't have air-conditioning and used to own a car with leather without air-con and it was a sticky sweat fest in summer! Instead, and sharing for options yourself, I thought I'd get my cloth recovered with some plaid/tartan trim or something period correct in the centres and go leather on the side bolsters. Other alternatives can be to fit Audi TT fron seats (c £150) but some fabrication is needed. Or source some recaro's from another car (c £200-300) and trim and fabricate a base. Or source some real Corrado recaro's but they are £1500-2000 which is just plain redicilous given the value of the Corrado compared to other modern classics these other recoro's come out of.

Hi all! One month ago, at the age of 40, and dreaming at this car for 20 years or so, I had the joy of buying my dream car. Yes, it is only a 2L 8V, but I do not need the power of the VR6, I also own a Focus ST with 300+ BHP, so I do not miss the adrenaline, but I still miss the sound of a VR6. No problem. It is a Corrado, it is MINE, and it's pristine! (Except for the damn "wet back carpet when raining" issue that just happened 2 days ago, that is :bonk: and :scratch: me.. Otherwise, so far, it is a joy. It turns heads on the streets (almost nobody has a clue what car this is..) , it raises people's interest at car shows.. Nice to see that people still love this piece of engineering and history.. Too bad such cars are not built anymore. Even worse that the number of Corrados gets lower every year...

Good work guys. Great experience with your renewals team just. Firstly very open and honest and secondly, matching last year's quote, which will do me for another year at least. Fills me with the confidence that should a need to claim ever arise, you'll look after me in the same manner. Thanks, Waz

For a G60 I would highly recommend John Mitchell / JMR based in Littlehampton on the south coast. Website is here: http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk/ Alternatively, I think The Phirm are very well regarded too. They are in Camberly: http://www.thephirm.co.uk/

Cheers Much appreciated.

Hi everyone, not new to VW or Corrado's but time to give the old girl sone TLC and get some advice from all you experts 😊 This is my 2nd corrado VR6 and I've owned 3 mk3 Golf VR's and 2 mk4 GTI TDI 25TH Anniversarys over the years. Sold my old Corrado to my buddy @fishmaestro and he helped secure a tidy blackberry VR for me coming home from a couple of years overseas. Living in East Lothian Scotland and can honestly say I've only seen 2 other Corrado's since returning 18months ago. Maybe I'm not getting out enough, although the good one's are definitely getting harder to come by! Not got too much planned at the moment but I've spent the last few months trying to source a decent set of 16" BBS RX 5x100 to no avail. Any help would be much appreciated! Also looking to replace wing mirror glass as edges are tarnished, is there a how to thread on here? Last thing I'm looking to do with the weather change is a windscreen wiper/wiper arm upgrade, do people still recommend the Lupo GTI ones? Looking forward to learning some tips and sharing some pics n progress! Cheers, Matt

You get adjustable bosses too. Never used one but this looks like it may help your particular situation. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-40-70mm-ADJUSTABLE-boss-kit-spacer-fit-MOMO-OMP-aftermarket-steering-wheel-/181601243109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a48470fe5

There's only one thing for it - lysholm charger :norty:

Jim - it's £81 on Carparts4less and there is £10 off a £75 spend using a code on the front page!!

I would guess you'll need a new ignition barrel, ignition switch and possibly a new steering cowl. There are various sources for a new barrel and switch, there's a few ebay dealers that do them, or you could try somewhere like TPS if not your local VW dealer themselves... The steering cowls are more than likely obsolete now (try TPS though to see) so either a breaker on here or an ebay search is your best bet. HTH Mark

I'm fighting the temptation to strip one down and make a replica of my Corrado.

Good work so far on the tear down. Water may also be from the door membranes so worth checking, especially if you end up in the general area when renewing any speaker wiring. Dim dip resistor needs to be disconnected for uprated wiring so that may be the reason that isn't plugged in. Also, good call on the immobiliser if you do take it out. Some cars are now suffering from alarm/immobilser install on top of install (and even on top again in some cases) and it's quite satisfying taking it back knowing that you won't be stranded due to electrical gremlins. Good luck with progress.

win!

Because it makes me smile when driving back roads or up the west coast. Because it's easy to maintain Because it's been very reliable Because it's the best value for money out there in my opinion when you take everything into account Because it's different Because it has a V6 Because parts are cheap (compared to an Audi S4 for example!) I could go on :)

I think theres only so long you can blame this new look for the lack of interest people seem to be showing at the moment. There are the popular group on here which i would imagine know each other outside of the forum and they reply to each others threads consistantly but seem to ignore others? I mean this thread had a large number of views but nobody posted anything and it seems unlikely to me that nobody had any answers to give!? just a thought thats all, were all enthusiasts trying to keep corrado alive, so help a brother out!

A couple of sellers who come with the highest of recommendations: Matt (8vMatt): Offered a heater motor based on seeing a previous parts request coming to a dead end. Item exactly as described, dispatched and received based on an extremely tight deadline. I'm talking VAG Parts next day delivery quick. Extremely prompt responses on the PM's. Literally can not fault. Tom (PurpleTom): Have dealt with Tom from a selling point of view in the past and found him to be extremely amicable aswell as punctual individual. Roles have recently reversed and I have now become the purchaser and same holds true. 100% honest seller, items as described, arriving quickly after expressing urgency. 10/10/.

bought myself some new coilpacks from tps, not cheap but better than being off the road again. Ill fit all new ones to the car and keep one use one as a spare and sell the others on. Struggled to get a heated seat loom so Ive got the parts to make one up instead.