Scott

One bulb? - so how comes two of my three knobs light up (Im so lucky!!! ) *:)

Ive just paid £53 for VR6 from VW: Oil Filter Air Filter 6 NGK Spark Plug Two cans of Synta Oil (10 litres) *:)

The worse thing is last week I saw a Corrado Storm in Manchester - same colour as mine and he pulled up at the lights next to me.... it was covered in dents, rust :shock: , and scratches and bad sprayed paintwork... he then had lowered it and added 'pimp mobile' dark black window tints..... I could have shot him :mad:

I like that *;) 8)

Looks shite!!!! :lol: :lol: - totally ruins the lines of the C ...

Yup spot on *:)

Well If the Corrado cant pull away I suggest he plugs in VAGCOM and finds out what is wrong.... I can pull away from my mates immaculate VR6 Golf quite easy from 50mph +..... and mine is bog standard *:)

Something strange about putting in spaces between letters when loading up post!!! mmmmm Never heard of one timing chain broken but have heard of people replacing them due to getting noisy...

What I was getting at is that the Corrado VR6 is not actually a 'proper V6' engine.... its actually a straight six engine with the chamber offset to 15 degrees giving the compactness of a proper V6 engine with the grunt of a straight six !!! VW was the first to do this and I dont actually know of any other manufacturer who have done the same thing to date! Straight Six Engine O O O O O O V6 Engine O O O O O O VR6 Engine O O O O O O Scott.

That looks total class mate! nice one!

WTF!!! *:) - so how comes its the most powerful naturally aspirated V6 engine of its time? VW were also the first people to put a V6 engine into a FWD power train!!!

Not as a rule no.... but the best way to do it.... Draining: Remove hose clip from top rad pipe and drain... remove bottom rad hose clip and drain... remove and replace stat (worth doing)... then connect it all back up - you'll find removing cap will help water drain out quicker...... Refilling: Connect all hoses back up.... fill up with 50/50 mix of anti freeze... mix it BEFORE you tip it in *:).... then fill up to full mark.... put heater on full blast hot... then start car with cap still off.... run up to full op temp (when stat opens) then switch off.... top up to full mark again and replace cap - job done *:)

situated on the back of the brake pedal - get down and have a look.... its quite high up... wires might have come detached or it could have broken....

Brake Pedal switch.........

Just out of curiousity what does the re-chip involve? Im pretty sure AMD re-program standard chips on the shelf to a set custom map and then plug them into your ECU when you go to AMD and remove your old one - they then put car on rollers and setup the car to optimum values.... This is my thought on this anyway - possibly Im wrong - I will be having it done myself shortly though *:) Scott Ps. Is it worth the £300 ?

Which is EXACTLY my point.... on the fuel flap it STATES use 98 RON Premium UL petrol.... now there is a reason and those knock sensors are also there for a reason. Nuff said *;)

Yep and whilst at it change the fuel filter!!!! If done all that and STILL got problems then would start looking at fuelling system in detail....

Well I FEEL the difference between new plugs and old ones... thats enough for me - I service my VR6 alot more regularly than some people can be bothered but thats personal preference... VAG service intervals are shite if im being honest... *:)

Well it looks like its total tosh although the rev limit starts at 6500rpm.... But in mine - no idea of the rest of you once you get to 6k rpms the power tails off.... ? Can any of you send me a RR chart of VR6 ? Scott

Well I have read into the VR6 engine management system in extensive detail being a qualified engineer myself - I stated my opinion from my knowledge although I agree 10bhp might be a bit OTT there is some advantage to be had from running different octane rated fuel.... otherwise why bother? I do agree with some of the points though... Roddy.... I change plugs at 5k intervals.... suggest you change yours anyway as worth a go... Have seen VR's loose as much as 15bhp due to dirty filters, dirty plugs, etc... and whilst you have not done many miles since last service.... if you have done town miles or do low mileage per year then you may be past the 'time' intervals... who knows - but as they say to cure the fault first weed out the basics - thats making sure the engine is running in top condition - until you have done that and tested the car again on RR no point guessing.... Also dont read into RR figures too much - they vary a fair bit... what counts is on the road... does it feel the same? Cheers Scott.

You should notice difference between Optimax and S/UL and S/UL and UL.... at least I can.... Have you tried plugging in VAGCOM to see if something is a miss? - although I assume AMD have done this? Perhaps time for fresh filters, plugs and fluids? Whats mileage now?

Mate the difference between normal UL and optimax DOES make a difference in excess of 10bhp due to knock sensors on the engine - when running UL the timing is retarded until the knocking stops... Optimax increases the timing... now if you look on the inside fuel flap it says premium 98 octane to be used.... hence why you lost power from the 95 UL.... Scott.

A common myth.... there is very little if anything in it as the Corrado is based on the same chassis...

Take your elsewhere is the first thing I would say... they are guessing and costing you money - what you need is a firm diagnosis! Suggest you try one of the specialists on here... not sure where you are based but Stealth and AMD ring bells....

LOL no its not easy to do!!! *:) Prestine Wheel refurbishment are supposed to be the daddies *:)