dinkus

Yeah, but what about the engine oil? :lol:

Mine was particularly grubby when I removed it, so not wanting any foreign bodies to be in the oil when I replaced the sender I got Goldie to turn it over. Several minutes later he'd finished laughing and I'd got the last of the oil off my face. :) :lol: ROFL. How many bar is the oil pressure again? :lol:

I believe that the Mk2 headlight switches look the same as early Corrado ones. The late Corrado headlight switches aren't like anything else (the Mk3 Goofs had a dial-type switch). I'm not sure about the early switches, but the late ones I'm fairly sure have a different connector on the back to the early and/or Mk2 ones. But if you've bought the right part for the job, go with the pukka Corrado one :) Fuses - the purpose of the fuse is to be man enough to take day-to-day current, but to pop if you stick something silly through it. According to that quote (from where?) the only current that should be flowing through the thin earth wire is the current for the little bulb inside the switch, which is 80mA (0.08A). This is a car, so it'll be lumpy and fluctuate, so you don't want a fuse that's exactly 0.08A, you want something a bit bigger so the fuse only pops when something goes really wrong. In this case, the only thing that could go really wrong is the switch shorts out inside - in this situation you're dumping pretty much all the current the battery can supply through the wire! :lol: So in this case, you can use anything from a 0.5A fuse (I think they're the smallest blade fuses you can get) all the way up to 10A or something silly. So TBH, I'd wop whatever you've got to hand in and use that :) Oh and the fuse holders - yup, either type of those is fine. The rating is just for the holder itself though (15A is more than enough) so you'll also need a fuse of the right type to go with it. Personally, I'd go for the first one, because it's blade-type so the same as all the rest of the car fuses and thus only one set of spares you've got to have. Also worth keeping always keeping a bunch of spare fuses in the car, just in case :)

Don't see any problems with that :lol:

I've got an old 160RLi which only has the one button. You can turn the bips on and off and TBH it works fine as long as I disable the cabin sensors. It's not ideal and does need fixing, but at least I can sleep at night :lol:

If you can, douse all of the brake line unions in WD40 before you start - they're gonna be cnuts to get off. You wanna make sure you don't round them off and/or twist and shear the hard line, because both result in needing to make up a new hard-line (not fun). Also probably worth squirting the front carrier bolts liberally with WD40 too. Gopher black or silver callipers. Makes them just look clean without looking bling 8) As Toady suggested when we did my car - if you can get someone to keep their foot on the brake pedal while you disconnect the old brake line and re-connect the new one, it stops the fluid pissing out all over the place. Keep an eye on the level in the resevoir and as long as you keep it full, bleeding the brakes is just a case of a few pumps on the brake pedal. Dead easy.

Hmm interesting stuff. My information was that the 3.6 is narrower angle, FSI the same as the 3.2 but bored out and had been told the Mk5 R32 was FSI. Could well be wrong though. I seriously doubt whether they would have done an FSI version of the old wider-angle VR, so any FSI ones are likely to be narrow angle (and thus no chance of fitting it or running it) and any wider-angle VRs will fit and probably aren't running FSI. Fun fun :lol:

So erm hang on - they've done a laser alignment, but not the camber? In which case they've not done a proper 4-wheel laser alignment and there be your problem..

I reckon Rumbongo pink! Rumbongo is yellowish?

Could do with bit of a clean,but you get the idea Are they electric and how much you looking for? fronts only Shirley you'd want the rears too? The cloth seats have matching Recaro-specific fabric front and back.

Firstly, are you planning on running without a rear bench or parcel shef? If so, you're probably going to have to lose the 6x9s or make some custom enclosures for them. The amp needs to have some space/airflow around it because otherwise it'll over heat, so you need to bear that in mind. If it were me, I'd get some Audioscape front door pods. They're expensive, but take your front door pods up to 6.5" so you get some decent sound out of them. That should compensate for having to ditch the 6x9s. I'd also go for an Audioscape sub enclosure which fits in the gap to the left of the boot hatch under the speaker shelf. Then you can put your changer either on the other side of the boot opening or under one of the rear windows. The amp could then go the other side under the window. The only problem then is that your door cards would either need modification and/or removing which is going to look a bit poo. Also sound deaden the whole thing because it's damned noisy without the rear bench and parcel shelf there to soak up road noise. Ideally some bitumen sheet type stuff (Dynamat/Skinz/Brown Bread/et al) and then a few mil of some sort of high-density open-cell foam on top. The sheet stuff stops vibrations and stops sound coming in from outside and the foam soaks up echos inside the car. Then cover the whole lot with carpet that you could easily cut to size. Again, you're still left with the issue of the rear door cards and it all depends on how game you are to get the MDF and fibreglass out and have a crack yourself.

?

Er *cough* I read the first post :lol: I'll get back in my box now...

Perhaps one of the Autometrix VW/Audi track days? Never been on one, but the ukmkiv's guys seem to go to a few...

Dishwasher?

Aye - the Emerald doesn't do DBW although apparently it will handle all the VVT and variable inlet stuff.

I concur. Yup, bit of a dodgy single-track road on the way up there and you'll scrape getting onto their driveway...

Yeah, it still runs fine and pulls well, if a little clattery when cold :lol: It's got 140k on it, but the chains have been done. I'm not breaking the old car though, so you'd need to buy the engine with the rest of it...

They didn't do it right, or they've missed that something is bent. They should have given you a print-out with it, showing you all of the values before and after and the range they should have been in. That'll show you if one wheel is pointing in a different direction to the other and hence causing your problems. Also, sounds silly - but have you checked your tyre pressures? They should all be set correctly before the alignment is done, but some places don't check and if they're not the same from one side of the car to the other, it'll make a difference to the handling.

The R32 engines seem to go for about a grand still, plus another couple of hundred quid for the gearbox if you so want. As engine conversions go, it is pretty straight forward, but it's not just going to cost you that much to do the swap. For a start you then need another £700+ for an after market ECU, custom gearbox mount, custom driveshafts, gearbox modification parts to make the 'box 2WD, custom downpipe, custom loom and it soon adds up. I priced up doing an R32 conversion on mine with the 6-speed 02M box, running on Emerald with a Storm Development exhaust manifold (£300ish I think) and the total for just the parts came to £5,000.

Yeah brakes, exhaust, wheels, gauges, some of the stereo, some of the interior have been swapped over so far and the old one will get sold as/when I'm done :lol: Engines are all staying put though, I'm not that crazy

Ah I gave up with the idea in the end - it was going to cost £5k for just the parts, so I just bought the new one instead :D

Oui - no piccytures of the fronts though..? :lol:

This is another one of those "Me and chrisvr6nos..." stories isn't it? :lol:

Sorry to disappoint, but you're going to cook those things if you don't put them in a box. They're designed to work in a box with back pressure, if you're not using a box then you're going to cook the coils. On top of that, you're going to lose pretty much all bass if they're just swinging free in the shelf. On top of that, the shelf is going to be huuugely heavy and still take up a considerable amount of your boot space. Audioscape do a nice sub enclosure that fits in the cut-out where the boot light is and can do you a deal for a sub and enclosure combo. Obviously that's just going to be the one sub, but if you're not looking at blowing the windows out, there really is no need for more than one prop sub. I've got a 10" poverty-spec Rainbow sub in an Audioscape enclosure and it's got more than enough grunt to shake the seats...