dinkus

I think the default camber for a VR6 is either -1.0 or -1.5 degrees, (bottom of wheels out), but I can't remember. cheesewire's posted a lot about the various different settings he's had so there's probably something if you have a search.

That's a lot of money for a job badly-done, but I think VW charge something comical like £300 for a proper 4-wheel alignment. Might be worth asking tho. If the place is worth their salt they should give you print outs of all the readings before they did anything and all the readings after they adjusted it all. Preferrably with diagrams showing the angles on the car too. The place I used to use charged around £80 to get the whole car done on a laser rig, so £160 is rather steep. But as everyone's said - if you're not happy, take it back and get them to do it properly, FOC.

Yeah, that'd work too - I don't think there's any arrows on them to suggest what they do :oops:

Yeah - essentially if the motors are going the wrong way, the voltage is inverted so you need to swap it around somewhere. If it looks right at the fusebox end, then I guess the plugs into the seats is your next stop.

Incorrect polairty somewhere. Not sure what connectors you've got at the fusebox end, but I'd swap them over and that should fix it.

If you've got switches on the seats for adjustment, then you've got Recaros and they'll be at least electrically adjustable and may also have heating elements in. If you've got no switches, then the wires will be for heating and you'll need to get yourself a loom, set of relays and control switches which are rather hard and/or expensive to get hold of :(

The pins on the rear of mine are starting to wear, but that's mainly the seals that the boots fit onto, rather than the pin distorting.

I'm not sure how much movement they should have, but I would have thought it won't affect the grip on the disk. However, the common cause of them sticking is the end edges of the pad backing plate scraping/jamming against the little slide it runs in. (hopefully that makes more sense if you're looking at the calliper in front of you). If you clean up the sides of the pad backing plates and the edges of the bits they slide against, then you should be ok. A bit of copper slip on there won't hurt either.

I try to avoid sniffing cat piss :lol:

As above - the beeper only goes off for the engine oil, but it's quite common for the sensors to die. They're about £7 each from VAG and pretty easy to change (don't even need to drain the oil on a VR, not sure about the valvers). Gearbox oil wise (mmm nutty smelling) then MT-90 seems to be the favourite choice, but as above - you really shouldn't be losing any so check for leaks/cracks in the gearbox housing.

They didn't stuff it into a ditch halfway round, so it's nothing at all like my Corsa... And please bear in mind that the last forum expedition to the 'ring resulted in two very bent Corrados verging on write-off status...

About 13mins of casual driving :lol:

I have to say, I do get very excited by Mk1 'roccos. They are beautiful, but no way I could drive one on a daily basis. You'd be surprised about the Polos... in fact any modern VAG car with a TDI in it. I thought I'd have a very tatty-looking A3 TDI the other day going down a slip road and I just couldn't drag past it, despite having my foot firmly in the carpet.

As it's starts with 536 it's RHD Corrado-specific, so that should narrow your search a little bit. I've not got ETKA here to look it up, but a pic would probably help...

Buying a Z4 definitely screams mid-life crisis, regardless of how old you are. An Evo has even worse connotations (even if they are blindingly quick) :lol: There are all kinds of ages of people that drive Corrados. A lot of us lot on here are 20s/30s but there are lots of other people I see driving about who aren't on here and just drive them because they're nice cars. You could go out and buy a newer car (Mmmm) but I look at my Corrado and it's worth maybe £3k tops... what else can you buy for that kind of money that will keep you as happy? Any cars that I like and would consider replacing the Corrado with are all at least £30k+ even second hand (Lotus Exige, Audi A5/S5/RS4/RS6) and that's a fair old wedge to spend on a car! Plus, have you driven many modern cars? They're very different beasts. The new cars I've driven/been in are all nice quiet, comfortable armchair type affairs. Even the quick ones don't feel very quick when you're inside and they certainly don't have any zing to the feel. Go drive one for a few days and then get back in the C and say you'd honestly sell up :D

I've just bought that one on ebay... :lol:

Ah but if you use/have the proper then they're better than jubilee clips as they don't dig into the pipe and always maintain the correct pressure.

Now that is a genius invention!... gotta love how their "but this product from an online retailer" link just sends you to google tho :lol: Any idea on where the best place to get one from is? Edit: This looks good to me.

You need to look at what's on the car now really - if the suspension struts look like they've got big screw threads on (and they're not rusty as hell) then you should just be able to wind the ride height up. If it's stupidly low, then that is hopefully the case. If however, you have normal suspension with no threads on it, then I'm afraid it's new suspension time...

I'm still a bit confused about the car bra thing - surely they must lift up at speed and get dust/dirt under them that then scratches the paint? And/or doesn't the paint fade more outside the bra than it does inside, thus leaving a mark should you ever take it off. Edit: and awesome blue tape thread on vortex! :lol:

I've never seen that one, but there's a vid from the launch of the Corrado floating about with Tiff driving the G60. I think it's on fastpurple along with the more recent TG clip.

I'd guess it was just masking tape too, but you can buy clear sticky-back laminate type stuff to stick to the front edge of the bonnet/wings. No idea where to get it from tho...

what are these 'mills' you are on about? I haven't come across them anywhere! windmill.jpg[/attachment:e2f78]

It's strange how cold those headlights can get :lol:

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/em_k3.html ;) :lol: If you used one of those do you still get the use of the instrument led guages etc? I'm really toying with the R32 engine option but can't bring myself to start messing with the electrics behind the dash, I wan't a 'mainly corrado' car if you know what I mean......or else I'll get beaten for modifying a storm :lol: .... Which ECU do you have then Stan? I've been having a gander at your thread but still can't see it. From what I can see most people reckon that you have to use the 24v ECU but then have to use the Key etc to go with it which means either fitting the clocks or just the backplate into the corrado. All I want is the bare minimum of 24v components, and i think the only way i can do that is with an aftermarket programmable ECU... Your oil temp is not connected to the ECU, and I thought the MPG was driven off the vacuum pipe? I believe Staniel is running Emerald, but even if not - as he says, the clocks will all work, the only bit that doesn't is the oil temp and MPG which both come from the ECU on the VRs. It may have been a vacuum thing on other Cs tho.