Yandards

Still waiting on some stock according to their website.

If all else fails go a get an item 3 on that pic..

With 16v forced induction being supercharged or turbo this will def help or shall i say you need it. In a normaly aspirated 16v it can also help. Especially if you have a tuned 16v reving higher its something nice to have. If you look at other 16v or NA engines they all have a breather system on the valve cover ie the honda 16v engines, vr6 ect ect. For a bit of reading on the 'ideal' engine breathing setup and why click here: http://www.fusionfabrication.fsnet.co.uk/breatherdesign.htm

Hi, I assume you are trying to separate the tie rod end (right angle bit the bolts to hub carrier) from the tie rod arm (long bar that goes into steering rack) Not sure if the threads are handed or not so no help there but try clamping the tie rod end and turning the tie rod using the flats on the tie rod itself. The tie rod will not unscrew from the steering rack as it goes into a balljoint that is free to rotate. I can also recommend the use of penetrating oil (Halfrauds do some good stuff in their own brand) and a bit of heat. Good luck!! (Damn too slow Gixxer beat me to it!)

Not keen on these, showing a bit of brake caliper and disc is fine but the whole thing just doesn't work for me. Just because you can do a thing doesn't mean you should...

Nice find! Got the price coming up as around £20 but not sure if my price file is correct for the UK or the EU but it still works out around a tenner. Engine breathing is a right PITA on FI blocks and this looks like a very handy little aid to removing the problem. Do you get much oil coming out of the breather? I see the beetle set-up has it on a return to the top of the oil filter housing.

What annoys me about these hairbrained schemes is that when it comes to a car owned by an enthusiast they are usually in much better running condition than those owned by people who only see their car as a utility or appliance. My question would be how does this work for cars from other EU countries? (Can I take my C for a spin around Berlin for instance?)

How terrible, GPS unreliable? ;)

Plonker

No to the VR mounts making the car sit higher. Don't get GSF ones, they just do not last as long as the VAG ones. Vr ones are preferable due to the fact the early (late valvers had the 'vr' top mounts as well) 16v/G60s top mount setup has metal to metal contact from top to bottom so you can get a very harsh thump on our fantastic british roads.

I always felt the corrado fuel tank has a much more progressive indication than my mk.II. I can get around 400 miles out of the mk.II to a tank but it is into the edge of the red by around 200 odd. Supercharged the senders may be the same but as long as the tank is the same depth you should still get an accurate reading. Jim try this to give you a rough idea of how much you have left in the tank. Fill the tank up and keep going until you hit the next nearest full litre figure on the pump. Then reset your trip meter and drive like you normally would until you need to refuel - again around where you would normally feel the need to refuel. Brim the tank to the nearest litre again and note how much you have put in. Also note the mileage covered and the work out your miles per litre, if you put 50 litres in and you managed to get 350 miles out of those 50 litres then your m/l is around 7. I would not want to leave less than 5 litres in the tank due to gunk etc so you have another 15 litres of usable fuel remaining or another 105 miles! So reset your trip meter again and next time don't refuel until you hit 450 miles this time. Again brim the tank and if you have used about 65 litres, then you can safely leave filling up until a bit furthur down the road next time!

True but would you want a mk5 instead? :wink: The other thing is we are talking about a design that was being crash tested over 20 years ago, computer modelling for anything at all on the car was pretty much out of the question.

Sorry on nights brain not working properly!! You are quite correct but it is hard to find fully synth oils of a high viscosity and something like mobil 1 is no good at all.

My car generates loads of downforce, but only when I'm sitting it it :D PMSL

Jim, get a few miles on it before you get it all aligned again. Do you know when the back top mounts were last done?

Interesting you mention this, but remember the previous mondeo shape? I seemed to see hundreds of those with split rear bumpers flapping around at one side on the motorways. It looked very much like the bumper was acting as a bit of a parachute.. Yes I do, still see some around suffering from the same problem. The Cs rear bumper is a lot stiffer than the mundano item though but I would still expect some flex at speed. Most of the underside of the C is not the best when you think about it. I suppose the front splitter helps to a degree but from the back of the floor pan back it is not an ideal shape to ensure smooth airflow, especially the scoop shape of the rear bumper. I suppose you could always fit rear bumper vents :pukeright: I still think the Corrado has excellent aerodynamics though, if you think about the amount of wind buffet you get on motorways when it is windy there is very little when compared to other cars - especially the modern trend for designing high boxes on wheels.

Quality thread this! (Plenty of anoraks John!) CDa is a type of zero lift drag, basically it is form drag - the shape of an object the creates drag. Surface friction drag is also a type of zero lift drag (get those clay bars out!) and so is interference drag - where to airflows meet up again, i.e. the air at the back of the car coming from underneath and over the top. It is a shame you can not model the underside of the C accurately as I feel that the shape of the rear bumper really does some nasty things to airflow at speed.

Yeah they are but the Philips ones come out miles in front. You can only get around 30% brighter in H3s from Halfords and they are not BOGOF. Still worth doing though as they will not be the best if they are OE ones!

Riley there is a link on the wiki to a wheel/tyre package difference calculation tool along with all the OE spec tyre sizes for a Corrado. http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/Wheel_and_tyre_sizing_information

There is another issue with running fully synth oil, and it is a big one as far as I am concerned. It all comes down to manufacturing tolerances; for those that don't know nothing (or very very little) is ever made to the exact size as shown in its engineering drawings/blueprints. The reason is that it is very expensive to do this, so you are given a tolerance or range that objects are allowed to be within. Tolerances are expressed as a figure and can be positive, negative, or both. So for instance say I manufacture a square flat plate of metal and the drawing calls for it to be 100mm along the side. I have a tolerance of +/- 0.5mm so the square can be anything from 95.5mm to 100.5mm in size. The problem comes when you take into account advances in manufacturing since the construction/design of all the components on or in a Corrado. You can now make components to a much tighter (less range) tolerance and as such modern synthetics are designed to run with less space between components - especially the oil pump. As such they need thinner oil to ensure correct levels of lubrication and more importantly correct oil pressure. By using a thinner grade of oil in an older engine you are not providing the specified viscosity of oil and you will loose oil pressure as the pump was not designed to run with thinner oil. Of course you may well find that you have a 'good' pump with tight tolerances from the factory and you can run thinner oil with no problems but I would not recommend it.

Oh dear, shopping list, bonnet and roof scoop just WTF was that guy thinking?

Yes on the mountains near Inverness yesterday. (Snow that is) If you look at the cross-section of the spoiler then you will see that it is not wing shaped at all, big curve at the back, as such it was never intended or designed to function like an inverted wing to produce downforce. It will produce a tiny amount of downforce due to the fact that it is a flat surface protruding into the airflow but the greatest effect will be the disruption of the airflow over the rear of the car which will only decrease lift by creating turbulence and thus drag. The Corrados spoiler produces a swirl effect at the back of the car hence the reason they get covered in crud below the spoiler. Dec interesting sounding project, wonder if it would be worth producing a curved insert to fit on the underside of the spoiler.. ;)

That is exactly why they used plastic. Injection moulding plastic is a lot cheaper than casting metal, which is why all the new VR engines have plastic manifolds etc. It's all about 'fit for purpose' these days, and not making things last like the good old days. Other manufacturers use plastic impellers in the pumps too and the same happens. It's a shoddy design since plastic and metal expand at different rates and the impellers are simply pressed on.... There are other issues with plastic parts too, the main being that contaminates in the water system (and they do get there) will cause a lot more damage to a plastic impeller than a metal one. It is just part of the 'lifed' cars that are being manufactured these days - everything is simulated/analysed so they can tie down failure points to within a tight mileage limit. Not that you would get them to admit it but I would put good money that most car companies don't expect 'new' cars to get past 10 years without major work. In fact as VAG's policy on spares is only to supply MOT parts for 7 years instead of the 20+ years they used to, there is a good case for a 7 year life expectancy.

Just goes to show what gains can be had by using improved engine managment.

Nice find!