_leon_

@coullstar - yes, great bit of kit. Did you keep the 02a as well? @Matt - :D

Cheers Yes - but fitting an 02M was a lot of work/change - so preferred to stick with my 02A. I didn't want to use things like blanking plates for FWD - or source a FWD 02M...

@Hasan - theres a few of each going on at the moment - so maybe wait and see how easy each go first and decide from there? @Rob - cool - think I've about 25 questions/answers to capture at the moment!

i knew it! Did you get the car running today? Yeah - going to try and make a full FAQ to capture all the questions/answers I'm posting - and document the basis steps taken to do it all. Mods - how can I create a wiki page for the knowledge base?

awesome help Rob/Karl - thanks a lot :) I'll just use my 12v bracket and tensioner in that case - as the tensioner is nearly new. A pic would be great Rob - I've been looking at pete_griff's hi-res pics and I think I know what to do with the pipework now. Not quite following you on the temperature sensor - are you referring to the water temp? On the 12v the temp and pressure senders are beside each other on the oil filter housing iirc. Just wondering if the same is done on the R32? Belt number - you're a star Karl :) You rattled that off the top of your head? ;) After looking at pete_griff's pics - I have a feeling the mocal plate can be fitted straight onto the 24v housing. Will give it a go!

Good to get inspiration! Those looms are what I'm after - they're superb.

Hi mate - if you're wanting to redo your loom - take a look at these looms JKM have made up - http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/gallery.htm You can buy the nylon and shrink wrap sleeving from www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu for little money.

likewise - would have to test run it!

Cheers Doug - been following your thread closely too! Good to meet you at Ed38 btw So in other words i won't be needing any of those

Well, I've been acquiring quite a few parts recently and on the fence whether to stay 12v or 24v.. Finally decided a month ago that the answer was R32. Having seen how relatively straightforward Rob (herisites) conversion was going, my mind was made up really. So picked up the R32 motor and 02M gearbox at Ed38, now starting stripping the bits I don't need and cleaning up whats staying, also goign to start posting questions! The plan is to: Clean up the R32 and sell off the bits not needed[/*:e3n594re] Get the Gemini kit fitted into the gearbox along with the rebuild, new cables and Peloquin ATB diff at JKM - the same place that did StormChargedVR6's gearbox. Jim there will also do a custom short shift - Shaun seems very pleased with his :)[/*:e3n594re] Remove the 12v and fit the R32/Gemini box, ancillaries, pedal etc, keep as much 24v parts as possible, including the bay layout from the Golf - basically get everything mechanically done and fitted[/*:e3n594re] Have the Mk5 loom converted at Stealth and Mk5 downpipe adapted for the Corrado, ECU defeats, mapping etc and drive out... Else I'll follow Rob's approach[/*:e3n594re] Strip back everything, cleanup subframe, rear beam, refresh of all running gear and brakes[/*:e3n594re] Paint time :)[/*:e3n594re] refit everything again = done![/*:e3n594re] So - have started the R32 cleanup/stripping down - and have some questions which I hope someone can help with please!! Its hopefully ask a load of q's in one go :) Can you use the 24v starter motor with an 02A gearbox and 12v flywheel? Now sure what differences there are to the 12v one...[/*:e3n594re] For those of you who have used the 4Motion bracket (for fitting the PAS pump primarily), but bracket have you used? The pictures I've seen look the same as the 12v tensioner?[/*:e3n594re] The oil temp sensor on the 12v can be fitted directly to the oil filter/cooler housing on the 24v?[/*:e3n594re] The oil pressure sender is lost when converting? Have people found the best way is to get some piping made up using a t-piece allowing a sender to be included in-line? Wasn't sure if other's had found another way yet..[/*:e3n594re] Have people removed the air pump, black correlated tubing from the back of the head to the front, and the valve(?) unit above the matrix pipe with the silver disc? See the pic with the arrows/letters. If so, I'm wanting to get a blanking plate made up to replace the valve unit, rather than leave it fitted. If anyone else wants one made up let me know.[/*:e3n594re] Theres 3 water pipes on the front of the engine (A, B, C). Please correct me if my understanding thats following is incorrect. A goes from the block to the Aux pump = block it up since the Aux pump will be moved (however I may keep it there since I want to retain the original pipework if possible). B goes from the crack pipe to the Oil cooler. C goes from the Oil cooler to the block. Since I'm removing the oil cooler entirely, can I just put a pipe going from the crack pipe (B) to the block (C)?[/*:e3n594re] Does the oil filter housing/oil cooler allow fitment of a thermostatic plate straight on - that would be used with say a Mocal cooler?[/*:e3n594re] For Mk5 engines without aircon, what belt can you use?[/*:e3n594re] The plan is to run engine as standard with some mapping at Stealth, but not long after will be fitting cams and pushing for 300bhp. What advice would you guys offer towards what fuel pumps to use? I know the external pump feeding the main fuel lines is the standard one, but have a feeling Nick (previous owner) fitted a Walbro in-tank pump. If thats the case, would I need anything else or leave alone? If not, then should that be the route I follow?[/*:e3n594re] Theres two pics I've attached showing 4 brackets - can anyone say what they are?[/*:e3n594re] Where do the water pipes shown by the arrows/letters in the two attached pics go to? I've got the hard pipes on the heatshield - do they mate directly to those?[/*:e3n594re] I know thats a comprehensive set of questions - but hoping to minimise the complications through the conversion - if anyone can help I'll owe you a pint :) And I'm more than happy to document the work and answers to the usual FAQs along the way. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfIMG_0013.JPG[/attachment:e3n594re] Corrado92.pdf_MG_0020.JPG[/attachment:e3n594re] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf_MG_0021.JPG[/attachment:e3n594re] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf_MG_0041.JPG[/attachment:e3n594re] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf_MG_0040.jpg[/attachment:e3n594re] I'm busy building these up at the moment too! Take quite a while per wheel but the finished product is a thing of beauty! _MG_0049.jpg[/attachment:e3n594re]

Wow thats full on Hasan! I've got loads of spare heat shrink wrap if you want some for the wiring extension. I think www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu should have the wires youre after - reputable shop i've used several times now. Do you want me to check anything on my car to help out? Not sure if you sorted the selector issue?

cheers mate - need 2 myself

How much were the lambdas each btw?

The RS' look perfect on the car IMO

Someone will be happy reading that! When you want to swap to 0.5" then ;)

Love the 1" lips. Pics are great

;) something in mind Hasan?

superb mate - very pleased for you!!

stunning progress! man you work fast!

get the running shots up Zak ;)

Shaun you kept that mod quiet... :lol:

wouldnt the bolts differ though per block? there werent any with the clarke stand from machine mart

cheers Karl - got a new stand - just need the bolts now. where did you get the bolts you used?

cheers - ive read you should use grade 8 bolts - any idea where to get them? I have to go mail order for everything given my working habits

Have any of you had a VR6 engine on an engine stand? If so - 1) How did you mount it? 2) What bolts did you use and where did you buy them? Thanks for any help in advance