coolrado

Maybe this should be in the events calendar, or at least a global announcement :lol:

At last something on tv worth watching, rather than big brothel, x-fuctor or britains got no talent :sleeping: Top Gear returns next sunday at 8pm :clap: :clap:

Had the same with my last TDI caddy van, it turned out to be a tiny leak in the main fuel line as it goes into the engine bay where it had rubbed on the return line hose clip, parked it nose up it would suck in air and drain the fuel line back to the tank, park it nose down and a small amount of fuel would leak out of the hole but it would start fine as it stopped air being sucked in. check for air in the fuel line when the engine is running as if there are any holes in the fuel lines you should see a stream of bubbles (if it has any clear sections like the caddy)

the brake fluid cap isn't actually air tight though, it has to allow air in as the fluid level drops and allow for expansion if you heat the fluid up too much, the engine bay is also quite a hot and humid place at times, which doesn't help.

ah didnt know that, can you buy any other tools directly from them?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture, if the fluid hasn't been changed in a long time the chances are it will have quite a high water content, the more water the more spongey and less effective the brakes will be. you can get a little tester that you dip in the resevoir to detect the moisture level, or just completely bleed the system through.

personally i dont really rate it any more than halfords professional sockets, i have snapped a snap on and teng 3/8 ratchet trying to undo a bolt and the halfords one coped with it fine, fair enough i did have the tube handle from a trolley jack on the end of them :lol: but the point is the halfords ones cope with that sort of abuse. I also prefer the handle design on the halfords pro stuff seems more comfortable to use. and it's a lot easier to swap a halfords socket if you damage it, walk in, hand them the broken one, they hand you a new one, job done, rather than having to send it away or call your snap on rep to bring a new one. although the ratchet handle screwdrivers are very good.

had the same happen to me, i knew i was meant to adjust the bias valve but completely forgot as i was too excited about the ride height and wanted to take it for a spin, but ended up actually taking it for a spin when pulling up to a junction, i ended up facing the opposite way in front of a lorry :shock: worn rear bushes also wont help.

I think it mentioned in the instructions for mine (weitecs so should be the same) that the 40mm of adjustment was to keep it within TUV standards, any more that that and the TUV approval was void, but they do adjust much more than that, you can actually have the underside of the car sitting on the floor and still have thread left.

It really has nothing to do with them being expensive or cheap sockets, pretty much all brands do both types, flat drive and multi point, flat drive are better for getting out tight bolts as they are less likely to round off the head, multi point are more convenient in tight spaces where you may not be able to get much of a turn on a bolt, they give you double the amount of possitions to grip the head of the bolt, and can also be used on the multi point bolts as above. my mate who is a big snap on fan has the full range of sockets in metric and imperial in flat drive and multi point and snap on cant really be described as cheap :lol:

its just a standard 12 point socket, the type you normally use for hex head bolts, i think its a 10mm for the clutch.

If it wasn't your fault you should just be able to insist that the other parties insurance will have to pay for the repairs, even if it does cost more than the value of the car, it should also not be recorded as a cat c/d or whatever, as they shouldnt have written it off. I had a similar thing when someone crashed into the back of my van while i was stationary in traffic, the cost of repairs was higher than the value of the vehicle, but my insurances legal cover asked me if i wanted them to tell them to repair it which i did as it would have cost us too much time and money to get another one. the van wasn't recorded as a write off and came up clean when the new owner did a HPI check on it, although he was told about the damage by us.

I have had a dizzy cap fail before and it looked absolutley fine, but had started shorting internally, even if it looks bone dry just the humidity in the air is enough to make a difference. I also had one that was arcing from the king lead to one of the outer leads over the outside of the dizzy cap which i only found out when i touched it :shock: I have also had rotor arms that have failed after a few weeks, the built in resistor failed, for the cost of a new rotor arm and cap its got to be worth trying. both the faulty dizzy cap and rotor arm where halfords items, the BERU ones from AVS are much better

there doesnt appear to be anything wrong with those disks, you will struggle to find any that haven't got a good crust around the outside after a few thousand miles, nothing that cant be sorted with a bit of a scrape and some coarse sand paper or a wire brush, and the braking surface would be back to shiney after 5 minutes of driving. Car looks like a complete bargain.

powder coat shouldnt peel, if anything its less likely to peel than 2k According to the place that powder coated my BBS's it usually depends on the wheel as some manufacturers have a higher silica content in the alloy, and this can cause problems when being painted or powder coated, appearently when the wheel is heated during the curing process the silica can rise to the surface and cause problems, they also baked my wheels for 24 hours before they coated them to get rid of any moisture, and then gave them 2 coats of soft silver powder coat and 2 coats of powder coat laquer, and for 80quid all in including the chemical dip and media blasting it was pretty cheap as well. a mate of mine had some wheels that had been painted with 2k and they where a perfect finish and did look really nice but he did say they where quite difficult to get the brake dust off and the laquer was becomming pitted by brake dust. My BBS's are much easier to clean now than they where with the original paint, the brake dust seems to just wipe off really easily and doesnt leave any scratches. you should get a much better choice if you choose 2k though as you can have pretty much any colour you want mixed for you, most powder coaters only stock a small range, although looking through the colour charts they had they can order pretty much anything in. It may have been that his wheels hadnt been baked for long enough so the finish hadn't fully hardened.

why do you need a new caliper, i would have thought the worst that would have happened to it would be some scratching where it touched the wheel, I'm guessing from the picture it was the top main caliper carrier to hub bolt that was missing, there should have been no sideways or twisting forces so it should just be a case of replacing the bolts and it should be fine, you also shouldnt need alignment as there is nothing there that would effect it, even when the wheel on my van locked up solid at 50mph it didnt disturb the alignment, the caliper can be changed without disturbing anything. Is the wheel really that bad that it needs replacing? or just a respray? And as far as the garage removing the caliper to do the pipes and not putting the bolts back in properly, i wouldnt be surprised but good luck proving it or getting them to accept liability.

its the emissions sniffer pipe outlet, there is usually a thin metal pipe coming out of it with a little rubber cap on the end, the brackets that are meant to secure them allways break and allow the pipe to bounce around, without the pipe you will get the exhaust noise coming from the hole and it will suck air in before the lambda sensor causing possible fueling issues, just bung the hole up with something, a bit of exhaust paste will probably work as a temporary fix, or find something roughly the right size to bung it with. I wouldnt bother trying to remove the nut on it unless you have some plus-gas to soak it in over night, it looks quite rusty and will probably just snap otherwise.

by ducting i mean all of the black plastic pipework, fan and flaps, basically everything behind the dash, the only things i would use from the corrado aircon system would be the aircon compressor, pipes, radiator, condensor and evaporator so everything under the bonnet, and the small section of duct from the centre air outlet to the centre ar vents and the side outlets to the side vents and the foot vents. wiring is quite logical to do its just a case of going through all of the wiring diagrams which can be found at the volkswagen.msk.ru site and matching up all of the relevant wires, i didnt have to remove any of the corrado wiring so if wanted to i could change mine back to standard. none of the connectors will fit though they are all a different style (mostly amphenol connectors)

Is it just one clunk when you first jump on the throttle, or is it a constant clunking all the time you have the the throttle down? if its one clunk it could be dead engine mount, worn suspension bush, top mount bearing or ball joint. if its constant its most likely a cv joint.

those sockets are also very handy for the cv joint bolts and the square cut spline ones are great for removing rounded allen bolts, just hammer them in and out they come.

yeah all of the motorised flap controls are in the seat ducting system, but its not side to side, thats dual zone climate control and only fitted to the top of the range passats, phaeton and touareg as far as i know. its not really possible to fit the motors onto the corrado ducting hence why i fitted the seat ducting system. what the climatronic system does also add is a recirculating option.

It's ok i'm officially a muppet :lol: :lol: :lol: :cuckoo: i made sure that when i blasted and painted the pump and pulley that i didn't paint the mating surfaces on the pump and pulley, unfortunately i seem to have put the pulley on the wrong way round when i put it all back together, so although i torqued the bolts up the paint has crushed down and allowed the pulley to become loose :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: flipped it round, re torqued it and its fine. mods please lock, or ridicule me and change my status to forum muppet if you want, i deserve it.

yeah head bolts are stretch bolts, unless he was refering to the exhaust manifold studs, which it is a very good idea to replace as it make putting it back together so much smoother. the laser set is about 28 quid, but you should be able to get one from somewhere like machine mart. if you struggle to find one let me know and i will send you mine in the post.

its not a straight forward swap, although most of the power supply and signal wires have the same colour codes as the original system, i got the complete wiring loom from the seat and spent a very long time looking through wiring diagrams and removing all of the irrelevant wiring, leaving just the climatronic wiring and sensors( which there are a lot of). I also had the complete ducting system from the seat, which was probably the easiest bit to do, you need to remove the complete corrado ducting system and fit the seat one instead, even the centre duct matches up with the corrado dash, you also need to modify the passenger side under dash tray, or get one from an aircon corrado as the motor is bigger and mounted horizontally unlike the corrado one. you may need custom pipework making up to run to the pump, but the seat pump fits on the original corrado bracket (at least on a g60) as well as finding an aircon rad and condensor that will fit, or just get the aircon system from a corrado or passat vr and use that, and just get rid of the corrado controls, the electrical connections should be the same i didnt end up fitting the aircon pump and pipework as i have a toothed belt system now so fitting the pump isnt really an option, although the wires are there to connect it straight up. the passat climatronic controller and seat controller are interchangeable with exactly the same connections on the back, the seat just has a bigger clearer display with dimmable red illumination and bigger buttons. the system does not need to be reset or programmed and does not talk to the cars ecu as i was originally told it needed to be, and as soon as it gets all the correct inputs it works fine, it does have outputs for diagnostics readers but they are not required as it can display fault codes and show input states when you put it into diagnostics mode.

I was thinking it looked like a mix of green and red, so probably a mix of the proper power steering fluid and the atf fluid that some people use by mistake. its a rapid clicking that gets quieter when i turn the steering and can be easily heard over the sound of the engine and toothed belt, the sound is definately coming from the pump as the sound matches the speed that the pump is spinning at it has done about 2500 miles since the rebuild so should have shown up sooner it there was something in the system. I will whip it off when i get home and have a proper look at it, and i suppose i could allways run it without the belt for a short while until i get the new pump sorted.