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Any ideas then gentlemen re the additional parts required for the mocal?

RW1, mines a 94 VR so its got the coilpack, and its auto. I recently took out relay 109 to clean but it was spotless, absolutely no pitting whtsoever. I sprayed it with contact cleaner anyway and refitted. Its got the black plastic cover. My own feeling is something related to the immobiliser as you've pointed out. The auto electrician had a look but didnt pick anything up, but tbh I dont think many of them know what they're doing. And at £45 ph (he spent about an hour) to call him out a few times(or another time where he spends a couple of hours) will equal the cost of a new speed sensor anyway. (the crank position sensor, i take it you're referring to?) I recently took the sensor out and cleaned it up. It wasnt too mucky or pitted and the magnet seemed to pull hard towards the engine block so i thought it was okay. Plus the mating surface for the sensor on the block was rusty causing a possible high resistance circuit. Would there be any other way to test the CPS? TIA How could you test to see if the immobiliser isolates the ECU?

RW1, pm sent

I knew it - this one was short lived. At idle (stuck in traffic) it died and took a 5 minute wait to get restarted, much to the annoyance of the cars behind. Same thing again about 3 miles down the road. The auto electrician came and checked the electrics and as luck would have it there was no problem he could find (as is always the case!), nor did it cut out at all, so he wasnt able to diagnose anything. I thought that cutting out at idle would be related to the ISV being gunged up, but thats clean and moves very freely. The Crank sensor is also clean (as per my previous post) so I'm at a bit of a loss now - not really sure what to check now. All the fuses look ok, relays seems fine, nothings loose, it just dies if it wants to at idle and takes a while to start. Oil temp was about 96 at the time, so there should be no issue with heat soak. Bloody annoying, as its fantastic otherwise.

what you doin with the systemmarc c?

I've just bought a mocal but its just the heat exchanger. where can I get the rest of the bits as per kevhaywire, s pics earlier? Installation guide then chaps please? Can see it being too hard, although location may be tricky as I've got aircon too. Any suggestions? Thanx all.

Yep, same here and its not too bad around town too. They're not the smoothest of boxes anyway, i think that is something down to the old 096 design, as every auto VW of that time that I've been in seems a little rough on gear changes. Having extolled the virtues of an auto, mines going up for sale once I get the scuffs done and repolish all the leather. Will post details and pics in another thread when its all done.

I'm actually thinking of selling it and buying a manual simply for the fun factor. Someone offered me 6.5k at a garage recently which made me think a bit. Was thinking of a conversion but unfortunatly time is a luxury i am distinctly short of.

Got it off ebay so i guess it *may* not have all the necessary bits. BTW, whats the best way to clean the rad fins - a blast with a pressure washer maybe? Just a thought on the cooling effect of the fans, they might not be able to draw enough air through the plates. One section is obscured by the aircon rad anyway so that wont get cleaned at all, unless I remove it.

So that means no cooling fan assistance to the mocal? Any tips on the install? I'll post some pics of teh bits I have when they arrive so maybe someone can tell me what else I need and how to install. Cant see it will be too complex - remove the existing cooler and plumb this one in with the new hoses (of course not that simple!). How to mount it would be an interesting question.

Mmm, seems it doesnt like high temps. Got to 112C oil yesterday in traffic (very stop go) and after pulling in to a petrol station, of all places, it didnt want to start as I moved in after the pump space cleared. :oops: Left it for a few mins and it started up nicely. Having said that, it then tried to cut out about 3 times on the 2 mile drive back home, and the temp gradually came down to a more normal 104C. Is this just one of those VR6 things? The mocal is on the way so I just need to install it (guide would help chaps!), so maybe this will solve the problem.

I've just bought some ramps to get under the car instead of using the jack and axle stands. Its a standard VR,not lowered but the front lip hits the ramps before the wheels even get close. I thought of just removing it but i need to lift the car up first. See the problem? Surely there is another way of getting the car on the ramps without having to remove the spoiler each time?

No mate, they go pretty much in parallel so as one goes up so does the other, with pretty much the same differential throughout. Its just that those are the only temp data I remember offhand. Mine doesnt. It still wants to continue increasing in temp. Supercharged, what makes you think the rad thermostat is dead? If that were the case, wouldnt the fan not come on at all, or be running continuously? If it needs replacing, what else do i need (apart from the obvious!) Thanks all.

I know its been covered, the whole overheating business, but this one seems bizarre. Oil temp is nice and steady at about 85 on the motorway. As soon as I pull ino normal town driving (and thats without any traffic) the temp shoots up to about 110 with the fans tripping in at about 104. Both rad hoses get warm so the thermostat is not stuck. And as soon as there's a nice straight run it cools down quickly again to a normal 85ish, which also suggests the radiator fins are not blocked. It is literally a town run of a few minutes that causes it to heat up. Recently drained and flushed the system and refilled with G12+. Coolant level is okay. Oh BTW, I've got a mocal through Ebay (which the To##er still hasnt posted although he's cashed my cheque, but thats another story) so when this arrives its going in sharpish. What should i do in the meantime? Any ideas? Thanks all.

Mines an auto, and, being an old 4 speed box it is a bit sluggish compared with a manual. Plans to convert it to manual have been put on hold as the missus prefers auto. Haing said that, i always find driving it LIKE a manual using the gears is the best way to get the performance out of it. Its damn quick on kickdown but even better dropping it into 2nd and then third, plus you have the benefit of easy traffic driving. I know its been knocked but th auto concept is not too bad tbh, and thats from someone who never really likes autos. There may be other auto boxes which can be dropped in, which i may consider. I'll look into it and report back. Not bad tbh.

Blue C on the A40 past Hanger Lane at about 5pm on Tuesday. I horned and waved at you but you didnt respond. Its the Corrado family mate, dont you know? :wink:

Why not just use some waterproof draught excluder? a lot cheaper and should do the trick.

Just a bit of feedback here chaps - after having the car diagnosed manually (ie sensors checked with meters rather than just VAGCOM) it turned out that the Crank position sensor was not operating at its best. Took it out, cleaned it, magnet seemed quite strong, but the engine block was quite rusty where it attaches to teh block. Gave it a good ol' clean with emery and a spray with WD40 and so far there's been no problem. Yet.... Anyways, upshot is if you do have this problem, check teh Crank sensor but also check the block for a clean conductive surface. If not give it a clean until its nice and shiny. And remember to clean all that crud off, and dont let it go in the engine! I'll report back if there are any other problems.

Just for the record, i removed the MAF and gave it a bit of a spray with carb cleaner, left it to dry and reinstalled. So far there's not been any problem, but it looked spotless and the wire was clean and unbroken. I've also removed the Crank sensor and given that a clean too. Again clean but the block was quite rusty, so i guess that may be part of teh cutting out prob. Gave that a good rub with emery and the then a spray with WD40 and, as I said above, no probs so far. I'll put the CPS comments on my "cutting out" thread for anyone else with a similsr problem.

The cutting put problem has been referred to in a few of my previous posts. Having had the car inspected by an auto electrician he said that the MAF sensor was not at its best (dont know how he diagnosed that one) and the Crank sensor needed either to be replaced or removal and a good clean of the earthing contact on the engine block, which I'll try first. His thoughts on the stalling were that these two were the key suspects. ISV etc is all ok, in fact verything else is ok (for the moment!) Hence my question. And when dr_mat, you say "the right equipment" what does that include?

Just to resurrect this post, I'd be interested in testing the MAF as well as systoms of failure. I was told the cutting out problem may be due to the MAF being faulty?

Looks very well finished. I do prefer the straight unstitched seats, like yours, in comparison to the normal multi-sectioned leathers that are standard (like in my car). Looks a lot more modern. The sectioned leather just feels old, no matter how clean or polished it is. Give us some feedback after a few months as to how the leather is holding its shape and colour. OK i admit it, I'm jealous.

looks lovely. Superb wheels one of may alltime faves. Specs of the car and some interior plus engine bay shots?

Indeedy - anyone used this?

Kev, make sure you take some before and after pics, although looking in your gallery the leather does look fantastic already. Probably best for some tired looking areas like the bolsters.