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Toad

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Everything posted by Toad

  1. I believe the ABF was taller to so that the thrust forces on the front and back of the bores were reduced, leading to longer block lives. I intend to fit an ABF with spacer plate and turbot to my valver at some point, using a short runner intake so there's no clearance issues. I have heard a rumour that the ABF will fit with early bonnets, but can't be sure... TBH, get an early car, wack the ABF bottom end in and run the standard KJet for ease of conversion.
  2. Quite a lot of people have had this issue if I remember rightly. Use the search...
  3. If they are or you can get a second hand one, it should be machined to fit the head = More expense...
  4. Block of wood sounds like a good answer. The head sits on dowels to fix the alignment and it might be a little tight on them. Valve seats are ground ( go for a 3 angle seat), guides can be replaced, stem seals, the whole head is decoked in a hot bath and comes back looking shiny. They are pressure tested to check that there are no cracks, the valves are typically inspected and replaced if necessary, new tappets are fitted.
  5. I wonder how popular a a 2.4 24V rado would have been?? Wonder waht tuners would have made of it? Hmmm
  6. I've been given a book on the corrado for Christmas, featuring lots of articles on the rado from 1988 to 2002, and plenty of pics of F242 BVV, F239 BVV and H988 WNV, Anyway the first article mentions that The corrado is being offered with the G60, the 1.8 16V and the 1.8 8V engines. The intersting bit says... "Not until next year will the 2.4litre 170bhp V6 (codenamed RV-6) be seen under the bonnet of a corrado. The 24 valve engine should be good for 150 mph. VW's synchro four-wheel drive system is also likely to accompany all corrado's powered by that potent power pack." Wonder if they ever made one?? Also I guess the RV-6 is the engine seen in the odd pictures of the Scirroco which is often miss-labeled as a VR6 (It isn't as it's got a different head, reminiscent of the 24V or R32 with the plugs in the centre) Seen here... Edit; Well, in a goof... Anyway, if anyone is interested, they can buy the book at http://www.brooklands-books.com ISBN 1- 855- 20673- 0
  7. Considering the damage to the cam bearing, the only encouraging thing I can say is that aluminium scrap is still worth a few quid... :( Damage to the cam bearings in the head can be line bored out on some heads, but not this badly, or on the vr I believe. A few stiff tapps with a hammer to the head should start to move it, I'd be wary of using a screwdriver as a wedge as you could damage the block slightly. Sorry dude...
  8. You could probably end up with the timing 1/2 tooth out if you didn't line it up properly. I wonder if it might just be so that you can quickly see that everything is in the correct position, i.e the cams are not 180 degrees out without looking at the top of the engine??
  9. Have a bit of a search, a few people looked into R36 conversions, and it isn't practical at the moment because of the FSi technology used. Basically you'll need a passat to nick the loom, ecu etc out of to get it to run, there isn't a standalone that has amplifiers to operate the injectors. And it needs 10 lambda probes... Think the new R32s are FSi too, so you'll get the same issues. Storm developments have some R36s and are supposed to be fitting them to R32 Golfs, but I've no idea if they actually work properly, I'd doubt it going on evidence I've seen. Check out this thread
  10. Hmmm, 2.8 24v I assume? Got any Part No.s?? ;) Edit... 021 103 601L for the sump, 022 115 629B for the dipstick tube and 022 115 607A for the dipstick Do they sound right?? 1/2l extra oil in the 24v sump isn't it??
  11. Indeed... Hmmm, maybe anodised aluminum tanks, so they are fairly matt, and scratch resistant. I might have to get a nugget to try this myself. Lol...
  12. Toad

    Engine run on

    I thought that might be the case, but it would have been an opportunity to add to the toad-love thread when Jim bent over the bonnet of his car... ;) I'm sure Stu may well have a couple of bits.
  13. Toad

    removing engine

    I tend to use a tractor. Not terrible fine control at times though ;)
  14. Toad

    Engine run on

    I think the 5th injector only sprays for a second or two when it starts when cold. If it's leaking, then unplugging it will not help a great deal. I think I have a spare, and a few 9A sensors knocking around, if you both wanted to converge near here I'd even lend you tools to do the swapping...
  15. Quite miss my valver, especially while I nurse the vr around hoping that nothing else tries to fall off before the valver achieves roadworthyness.
  16. Wonder what they would look like in black in your engine bay???
  17. Yeah, fuses and relays are fine, went through that all whilst I was keen. TBH the ABS is the least of the issues, but it would be nice to know that it could work if I wanted.
  18. I'm quite taken with the wheels. Think they suit her. Love moonlight too...
  19. My abs is forked, the light doesn't come on (tried changing the bulb) and the pump doesn't fire up when the ignition is on. I did get codes saying that a couple of valves were knackered once, but haven't tried again. Think I'm gonna try pulling the ecu apart over chrimbo, guess I can't break it any more than it already is. Lol.
  20. Toad

    Sticking brakes

    It's probably the water in the cables freezing... Mine did it all the time. Leaving the car running on flat ground will raise the temp of the air under it and free the cables off. Then don't use the handbrake. Only cure is to replace the cables, which will make a massive difference to the feel of the handbrake etc. Cables are £8 each from the dealer and are best fitted with the car on a ramp. I'd clean the handbrake mech on the caliper up and douse with wd40 too, then a layer of grease to keep the salty cacky water out for the winter.
  21. I'd go for starter motor tbh. My valver would play up when hot because the old motor was knackered.
  22. 1) Your coolant level sender is indeed probably knackered. You'll need a new tank. 2)Try plugging vag-com in and watch the temp levels in that, might just be that your temp sender is knackered. Does it read 90ish when you aren't cruising though? 3) You might be able to unscrew the bottom section and reseal depending on the type of pump, will only be a temporary fix though as if it's been leaking the coolant can get into the pump and corrode it. A new unit will last years, if that helps to offset the pain of buying it.
  23. Through his letter box right? :lol: I was actually thinking of packaging myself up and couriering myself to his house. Imagine his face when he opened the fairly large (probably fairly sweaty) box to find me inside.... :D I like the Jim, hence my lack of doormat bothering activities toward him.
  24. Was that the sound of your pacemaker imploding? Anyone know his address? Send the paramedics immediately. (And send it to me so I can give him a special surprise!)
  25. Yeah, I trawled through that thread a couple of times, feeling more upset with my fellow VW enthusiasts every second... I dunno if I'd be too happy about some of them clambering over my car though.... I'd have to be there to inspect thier positioning and movements closely :norty:
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