Jim Bowen

Started to bid it up, got to be £100

I'll have a look, i did have one but not sure if i already sold it or not

I've gotten so used to not driving it, its become worrying now :lol:

What sensors do you need? Front or rear? My car is sat doing nothing so i could remove mine and post them to you if you wanted to test/borrow them for a few weeks.

There isn't much to the sensors, not really much technology in them, Think its just a magnet with two wires attached. I went for the Eircher ones when fitting the Teves20 system and they work fine (the first time in 10yrs i've had my ABS fully functioning) I had to destroy the old ones to get them out, but once out i just ran a dremel around the hole they fit in and the new ones just slipped in without needing any force.

I would, once you get going its not too bad a job. I've lost count of the amount of times i removed and refitted my suspension.

Have you got the brackets the correct side? I seem to remember when fitting mine they could go on in two different positions. Or could the spring have twisted when adjusting the height? Might be sat weird in the top plate. I doubt its going to be any suspension or drivetrain component hitting each other.

Do you have a spare key to try? The key that came with mine stopped turning altogether one day, tried the spare and it was fine.

I have the same and its not anything wrong, i think its something to do with volt gauge/oil pressure VDO upgrade thingymebob.

Ha. Now you say it, i remember you telling me before about that.

Has it been customised? Just that the plate is different and it doesn't have the horrible silver rubstrips?

Is the ISV damper ok? Have heard of them popping or cracking

Not sure, but i do know sone pumps produce different pressures. I got my vr6 one from gsf. Non genuine and traded in some scrap one I'd taken apart.

Engine speed sensor isn't a fault, that'll always show up if engine isn't running when doing the test

Hi Mike. Thanks for the update. Mine did 3000miles and then went. Which i find weird, Vince reckons the block is twisted. I'm just trying to understand it as it was a new unused block.

I was just searching internet about my new engine build spinning the bearings and i reckon this is the time Vince is referring to. Not sure if Mike is still in here but wonder how the latest engine is? I'm waiting for Vince to strip my engine to investigate. I find it strange that longer valves caused Mikes bearing problems. How does that work?

Mine was like that. I think oil from leaking cam cover gasket gathers there. I wouldn't dismiss the coilpack and leads even though they have been changed. Have you got vagcom/vcds?

Just lacquered the bonnet, needs a sand and polish but will wait a week or so Front edge much better than it was, not perfect but it'll do until i get a respray Chips it had before i started

This is what i removed from my 1995 VR. Not sure if you can zoom in enough to get any numbers etc. Can't think LHD would make a difference to the design of it

Do these stop the window wobbling? Been meaning to sort mine out for ages.

I'm still wetsanding my bonnet, applied some lacquer and it didn't go well so back to wetsanding it.

Cheers. Am sure it'll all get sorted out one day. Not going to rush it, the rest of the car is now all how i wanted it and set the target if driving before the winter of last year set in, so got to do that. Trying to rationalise it and its only really a bottom end that i need fixed. Everything else is good. I find the hassle of sourcing parts and moving engines around the place, (especially to and from stealth as it's about 220miles away) and then ringing people more of stress than what it may cost in money. I do wonder if i just sling in my old engine in with a new headgasket and the head off the broken engine. And then take my time to get the other one sorted out, maybe look into a decent turbo spec build.

They have been the most reliable part in my car :lol: saying that, they did break once...

The only bits i recognise there are the two connectors on the bottom left of photo, the rest looks home made to me. The heated part is the more completed loom, the electric movement is just a couple of wires

In a way it would be nice to own such a unique piece of modification history. In all seriousness though, if the engine is good like it says, it would be worth buying to split and probably ending up quids in, especially as a complete rebuild is probably going to cost £3000-£4000 Think i'm going to fit the spare engine, will see what happens as i'm doing the bodywork at the moment so even if i did have an engine it in, i wouldn't be driving it anywhere for at least a month