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KipVR

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Everything posted by KipVR

  1. The front lambdas are widebands and these are used for the gas analysis, fuel correction etc. The rear ones are simply there to tell you if your cat is working and nothing else, hence PSI did away with them. The ECU only throws the car into limp mode if the widebands are not operating properly, as the rear operating does not put the engine in any danger. Make sure that PSI have put the Widebands the correct distance away from the ports, it's quite critical within reason - a cm or two doesn't matter but a 300mm does matter. Is your CAT working ok? Was your old engine using oil? it may have ruined your CAT. Hope you get it sorted buddy.
  2. This is what im talking about 90 quid ant bad was that for the full lenght of the car up to the brake MC? Where did you get all the bits - Rally Design ? Sorry, I can't remember where i got it all from, online somewhere! I'm running it from the ABS manifold onwards. From what I've been told, it expands less than copper pipe, but more than steel (oem), it certainly feels like that's the case when you compare the two side by side. But in reality I have never been able to tell the difference between copper/braid/steel when driving the car, it's not the night/day difference you get when replacing your rubber hoses with braid.
  3. It costs about £90, it expands less than copper, but more than steel. I prefer it as there are less joins in the system. You can use the fuel line clips found under the floor to clip it on with. No special tools or anything necessary. :D
  4. The Accord was a very good handling fwd car, but EVO voted the Integra as their best ever handling fwd car. I (ok my long term girlfriend did!) owned one for a bit and it ran circles around the Corrado in terms of handling, not much else though.
  5. KipVR

    door lip scratches

    How about the clear protection film perhaps?
  6. how about a Petrol Lupo, nippy in the city, EASY to find a small parking space for it, good on fuel, cheap bits (Arosa even cheaper) etc etc. Ford Ka, Toyota yaris etc....
  7. Scraping underseal off is a bitch, I'm on my third day of being underneath the car scraping suspect patches of underseal off and my arms neck and back ache so badly, I wish i had rolled the car over now but initially I thought there was only a little bit to do- how wrong I was lots of little bits that if left would be holes in three years ..... I think a acid tank is definitely the way forward!! More pics needed though :D
  8. Thats awful, hope you get it back mate.
  9. Is it possible to get a small amp under the seat?
  10. I wouldn't but others may have a different opinion, you may well force water into small cracks that you can't necessarily see. Then it stays there and rots the metal under the coating.
  11. I'm also doing this at the moment, I think it's fine to go over the old stuff, but feather the edge of the old first so it's not a sharp line and clean it up with a bit of thinners. Also make sure you use an etch primer onto any bare metal - that's very important. I found that where all the studs holding the brake line clips join the chassis a fair few of them had rust creeping under them, and a little bit on the fuel tank strap anchor points. By far the most was the front jacking points though, luckily still not bad though :)
  12. Hi Pete, there going to have to be staggered, but it all looks ok if a little tight. I'm effectively using the TT downpipe as a donor for all the bits, they are all chopped into seperate sections, then welded back together again in a slightly different order!- and not by me because my tigging is sh1te :D I'm not bloody suprised, seems the 24v home builds either get broken or sold as soon as they are finished or not quite finished. Just hope I don't go the same way. :D You should see them in the flesh they look much better, they suit it absolutely spot on, so glad I took the chance on them, I never thought I'd say this but I think they suit the car more than RX's do. The rears need to come out a bit though, and I'm a bit worried as the fronts are quite far out without the spacers to clear the calipers but I think it'll all be good. 8)
  13. Well, for the first time in over a year the car moved! Not far though, just from being beside the lift to actually being on the lift! It's now having the TT downpipe (which has the CAT's, flexis and lambder bosses in) modified to fit by Jon, whilst I've been scraping any suspect rust areas back. Unfortunately there are a few more patches than I would have liked to have seen, but none of them are very bad, just surface rust that easily comes off with a wire brush attachment. I've ordered some VW underseal to put it back to how it originally was. When jon's finished tacking up the exhaust the engine's out for loom fitting and brake lines- after all the underside has had a thorough clean of course!!
  14. Really impressive mate! I like the way the icooler won't be seen, are you using crazydaves fan set up?
  15. cheers Chris, I can't wait to bolt all the bits onto the car though, see it all together.... :D
  16. I'm 99% sure they are the same as leon carriers, but never had a pair of leon brembo's or carriers to confirm it, but I'm sure the calipers are identical. The reason I have made them is because Seat ones are £100 each new, or £100 pair used, but it's cost me just £40 in materials to make my own!
  17. Almost right, it's a 53 plate 330i sport, don't see the point in the diesel unless your doing big mileages to cover the extra outlays.
  18. spot on, you can't weld it, and 2014 cracks easily when you weld it. Got Helen's new car today!! really nice drive. 8) Going to take the tints out which is a pain in the ass. Also finished my brackets! Off for hard anodizing now.
  19. Thanks mate :D , you can use either 2014 (copper alloyed) or 7075-T6 (zinc alloyed), I prefer 7075 for it's good fatigue resistant properties, the downside is it isn't so good with corrosion but neither are great. However both are very similar and if they are hard anodized it really doesn't matter which you use. If in doubt use steel :D
  20. Rears finished, two seal kits for £25 pounds +vat, powdercoating for a fiver.....and an evenings light work. :D Brembo brackets will be finished tomorrow.......
  21. jackhammer.gif[/attachment:3o1kbxh8]
  22. KipVR

    Headlight Mod

    They look bloody ridiculous on Audi's.
  23. Smack a torx in there, none of this namby pamby irwin girlie sh1t. :D
  24. It's the oils in the plastic that leech out over time gradually taking the black pigment with it, the more detergents that are used on the plastic the more oils in the plastic are drawn out. This is why you often find the roof spoilers the worst of the lot- because it gets more soap on it during a clean. The worst thing you can do is put silicas on it or heat it up with a hairdryer/heat gun, this draws out what oils are left in the plastic and eventually makes the problem worse, this is why they last less time in hot countries. But the plastic doesn't only secrete oil over time, it will absorb it too, so the best thing you can do is try to put oils back into into the plastic. The vegetable oils or nut oils (hence peanut butter) will help, olive oil, liseed oil etc will all work well, and over time you will gradually reverse the process and they will stay blacker for longer. You could try putting some black dye in the oil to help it, but I've never found this to be necessary. The best oil to use I would guess would be a thinner oil like linseed oil, my thinking being that it would be absorbed more easily, but then it may come off quicker so the plastic gets less absorbtion time. Actually heating it up and then applying oil may help but all of this last paragraph is speculation. :shrug:
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