KipVR

What have you put in your main beam reflector?

I've got the high pressure pump for my washer bottle (mk1 golf diesel bottle I think) and the headlight motors (with manual adjustment at the moment), but I still haven't got the little potentiometer that fits to the rear beam, when I have one I'll fit it all in one go..

Well finally got round to finishing off my lights, had to use a couple of changeover relays because the projector unit only has one filament in it, and the high beam is simply a shutter being moved..so now I've got 3 micro relays per side - low, high, and change... Here's a pic from my driveway, what this doesn't show is just how good the sideways light dispersion is- it's awesome! Also the light is really even with a great cut off. In all its a massive improvement in lighting, a different league to the original ones with a loom. Well chuffed[emoji41]

Did you fix this?

To get the guides out you will been to take the rear part of the tunnel out, undo the nuts holding the handbrake cables on, and then just get under the car and pull the guides through the rubber grommets, a bit of lube makes them come out and slide back in easily. Ooh err

Looking good! Are you doing the handbrake guide tubes that go through to the cabin? They are fairly easy to get out. VW (and every other oem) use plain ecoat on most steel pressed/fabricated parts, and will have a minimum salt spray hours durability. Wishbones, sump, rear beam, cross member etc are all plain e coat, no paint. I'm not criticising your choice though, paint will last much longer!!

I'm not entirely certain, but I believe the VW black ones were for the Mk3, and had a different sunroof switch in them like I this pic. Some guy worked out how to spray the Corrado ones though and keep the illumination icons clear, like illfuzzer says, you may just need a steady hand! Looks to me though that he sprays a coat over after clearing the icons, cos they are all much greyer than the oem ones- you can see in the pics

I had my headliner done in Charcoal suede last year, this summer it started drooping because they just stuck it straight to the original liner and the contact adhesive attacks the old foam. So if you get it done make sure they take the old fabric and foam off first!

I think that he's actually spraying them black with a special spray paint, some guy in America started doing it a few years ago, but vw black ones came on a few Mk3 GTi's I think.

Hey if you look through my previous posts on this thread, you'll find the Audi ECU pin out chart I made, it was for a TT 3.2 BHE but the ECU is the same. Should be just about all you need for info along with the A2 resource. Get the Audi engine harness (usually comes with the engine as its a faff to take off), I'd buy a Corrado VR6 car harness, and splice into that. Be careful with load ratings, fused outputs, which outputs are on the load reduction relay etc...You can buy the junior power timer terminals online if you don't want to solder or you need to up the gauge of wire. Best tip I can give? Do it yourself, no one else cares like you do.

You might be right there Kev but I figured if it was out of sync it would just stop in the same wrong position every time rather than ratcheting out with each attempt to shut it?

Yeah modern cars are much better in this area! When you wash the car give the seal a wipe, as when grit is stuck to it it acts like sandpaper...

Golf 650B at Cwmcarn car park!!

They were always badly wired up, because the dealers fitted them!

The vw alarm module and the closure module are two separate items, usually hidden up by the glovebox. I may have a spare module if yours is playing up.

Pull the headliner down at the back and have a look, you may well see the weld where it's been deleted.

Sorry Jim, re read my post today, it sounded very matter of fact, wasn't meant to come across like that!

You don't lose the rear steer effect at all because the rear beam slides sideways on them, but they don't self centre like the bonded oem ones do. The rear actually moves about more with the poly ones, but because they are not pulled back to the middle after the corner it's not so well controlled. On a track car you would poly bush and use shims to prevent any sideways movement so your geometry is constant and therefore the car more consistent. I really like the feel of them though, it feels more active, but it can feel less planted as a result. No harsher at all, it's in the wrong place to make any discernible difference to ride comfort, maybe more road noise but nothing notable.

That'll be the full closure module with your alarm, turn the sensitivity down on it.

Make sure you put them on well, because if they are a little bit loose they'll give you door closing problems and scratch the paint on the sill.

I would have a look at the rear washer hose, it could be squirting water inside your boot lid if it's split, that might well cause condensation.

Depends how factory you want it to look and how good your fabrication skills are! If factory then Swifkids right, us syncro stuff with early Haldex, but the later stuff is much much better.

Small engines in small cars are great! I bought an old Seat Arosa for £300 a few years back for commuting across the New Forest. It was the 1.0mpi version, it wasn't quick but it never felt that slow either. The thing is it was so simple and cheap to maintain and because it was so cheap I didn't care about it too much. My mate had an old 306 and we regularly bashed into each other messing about at work.. Drove it about for 3 years in the end, sold it when my commute changed, and made £500 in the sale! When you have less traction, the fun happens at lower speeds!

It's e coated from factory bruny. Still looks immense however it's done!!

Thanks Jamie, it's been quite different work doing it too which has been a nice change from the usual. Hi Tom, hope you are well chap? I've moved out of Salisbury! Not far though, just near Fordingbridge.