KipVR

I use that washer bottle on the drivers side of the engine bay!

Thanks for the reply guys, but I'm still a bit confused!! So I have a my N80 EVAP soleniod wired in exactly the same as the Audi diagram- power from Fuel Pump Relay, switched earth to J220/64 I also have a resistor simulating the N112 Secondary Air inlet Valve - power from Fuel pump relay and switched earth to J220/44 I got rid of any SAI pump errors by fitting a resistor to simulate a load across the relay, I cant remember how many ohms it was as it was years ago, but I don't have any SAI fault codes. For reference the power feed to the resistor also comes from the fuel pump relay, with a switched earth to J220/46. I could replace the resistor with a relay but not sure this would gain anything? The error I am getting is '17881 P1473 EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit'. From googling it, I'm not sure if the UK cars even have EVAP leak detection pumps.. Has anyone else had this code? Where are you guys putting the EVAP resistors?

So I've just plugged my car into Vagcom for the first time in ages to try and fix an ABS fault and thought I'd check the engine codes whilst I was there. I had a fault pointing at the EVAP pump being open circuit. Did anyone else fit the pump? I must admit I don't recall seeing it on the wiring, but I could easily be wrong. I fitted the 24v EVAP solenoid, but not the pump- I didn't even know they existed until I just googled it!

I would get a dent guy out to pull the dent out first, most bodyshops are good at using filler, not so good at pulling dents out.

Thanks Chris, can you PM me your bank details and I'll send payment. I'll stick with the VR one I think, less hassle for the moment.

As above, I managed to break mine, grrrr! The one that screws into the gearbox worm gear, I think they are obsolete now...

Yeah I have a load engine wiring loom unused, have you got a picture of the plug? PM me one and I'll see if I have it.

I've got one, pm me your address and I'll send it to you

I'd also like to know the above. My MOT's due and so I've been trying to fix my ABS, I've been working through the usual causes and noticed only the centre 79 relay here clicks when the ignition is turned on, if anyone can shed some light on these (what each relay does) or point me in the direction of some wiring diagrams I'd appreciate it. The Bentley manual seems to use a different system.

Hi, do you have the vehicle speed sensor that plugs into the gearbox?

If only I had a bumper for stripping, I've got a guy coming round to my house to soda blast a test patch on the painted brickwork this morning. He's quoted £600 for 60 sqm which isn't bad really seeing as the soda costs £1 per kg. Still, it might rip the soft reds to bits...

Wierd, I've had a couple of bumpers done this way (admittedly not Corrado bumpers) and the results have been exceptional, with mould lines totally intact, cheap too compared to the time it takes to get the results by hand (days)

Yes here you are pal, not the best pic but all I have at the moment.

Soda blasting or dry ice blasting is the best way for plastic bumpers, it's not abrasive like bead or shot blasting, and so lifts the paint off whilst leaving the plastic intact. It's commonly used on GRP cars like TVR's Lotus etc. There are people advertising a mobile service on eBay. Do not use paint stripper of any kind, the plastic absorbs it, and over time any new paint will go crazed or lift off.

When your tyre is cupped it sounds like a wheel bearing, you could try mounting the tyres on the opposite wheels if they are cupped on the inner edges. But I'd just get some new tyres and be done with it.

Might be quite expensive, but Pirtek will probably make some up for you on site.

Sorry to read this has happened to your friend. I can't believe people break IMO houses to steal cars, I suppose it's a quick buck.... Have they looked for the sport in Cheshire? I hear there are a few there [emoji1]

I think I ended up using a mk3 GTi pas pipe or something as I wasn't happy with the VR one.

I was a Gumball marshall in 2000 (I think!) great cars, got to go to lots of places in Barcelona Grand Prix, but most of the people doing it were tossers. Max is a good guy.

Do you mean f type coupe?

I'm so happy to be getting rid of my diesel mk5 140, did everything brilliantly except provide me with a smile. I only bought one because I was doing a crazy long commute. Given that you are only doing 5k a year, you will never get the extra back you paid for the diesel. Now the most reliable car I've ever owned is a 2003 330i touring, bought on 63k now on 129k, and it's just a big lump with no extra valves or turbos to cause problems. Despite the extra fuel cost (24 mpg) when you take depreciation and servicing into account, it's been the cheapest car to own, and I love driving it.

It's not necessary to use two fans at all, the Spals etc are so much better at shifting air than the oem ones. What is good is fitting a resistor to one of the 12V feeds (the resistor is inside the fan on the oem ones) so that you retain the two speeds. You can use the headlight resistor up by the battery if you are no longer using it. A smaller fan just cools part of the radiator and misses all the water that goes either side of it so you get hot spots in the rad which isn't good.

That's a truly great Corrado you have there Chris, and I'm sure you'll look after it well. I also think it's a sound investment as I reckon Corrado's will go up in value over the next could of years, the more original the better.

^^ Totally agree, and also the image of front wheel drive back then was ok for a hatch but not great for a sports car costing what it did, no matter how well it cornered. Still, it has fared a lot better than the Ford Probe,Calibra, and E36 M3

Best to try and find a fabric with the foam already on it