KipVR

Me too, when do you think they will they be available Karmannski?

Will the quality of the carpet be the same as OE?

Sounds good to me! I also like the brakes, don't they limit your wheel options a bit? My Brembos certainly do.

Trouble with the foam sleeves is you have to take off all the multi pin connectors, a lot of work.

Maybe something like this but lower density? if you got it say 80mm wide, you could then wrap it along it's length (not in a spiral) and trim the excess off, but it would need to be quite a low density foam or it wouldn't bend well. http://www.ukindustrialtapes.co.uk/single-sided-foam-tapes/single-sided-foam-tape-high-density

I looked for ages and couldn't find anything. If you really want to do it I reckon the best thing to do would be to buy a thin sheet of foam and wrap it round the loom and glue it along the length creating a seam, but it wouldn't look as good, and would almost certainly require loom removal. I went with spiral wrap in the end, but it doesn't look oe. You can also get the expandable plastic braid which can look really nice when done well and has good sound deadening properties. I wonder if you can get a wide foam tape?

Love that photo in your sig of your Corrado on the RX's, makes me want them on mine again, if only they fit with the big brakes :-( We should do a few sound clips of the exhaust setup's we have, I like mine fairy quiet really, I'm too old for a loud and hard car! I'll post one up later...

Pretty much, if you have a de-cat. Mine is a fair bit quieter than that with a jetex 3 box kit and 2 standard Audi cats, but the rasp is still there at 4k plus. It's a sound that makes you heavy on the right foot!!

Just use a new 12V cooler, my oil temps are spot on and I keep a close eye out, although I did have an almost complete spanking new cooling system so the water keeps a nice stable temp.

B star did some too

No it needs the 24v v6 looms, one that goes from ECU to engine and one that goes from ECU to cabin. Don't forget you will also need the pedal and lambadas from the donor vehicle.

Nice new car Kev, I'll be watching this thread with interest as I'd like to replace the Mk5 GT tdi with a Gti. Looks great in black with tartan. I really like the combined engine cover/filter MAF, why have three components when one will do a more reliable job with less air leak potential? So is the wing issue on all Mk5's? Mines a 58 plate but is due to go for a new door skin on Tuesday because someone reversed into my door when parked! I don't want that repair (blended into front wing) to affect the warranty. (it's a ford dealership doing the repair)

If you lay the wiring diagrams out in front of you and you have the looms in front of you, it's actually fairly straight forward to do the loom- I found it to be rather like doing a puzzle. I'd like to think that I have a better wiring loom now than the original car came with. Not only that but you also get a better understanding of what's going on. There were two big mistakes I made with my conversion, firstly I paid a friend to do the wiring, and I wasn't happy with it at all so ended up doing it myself, and secondly I initially tried to not use the rear lambdas. Like Kev says the Bosch management is good as a complete car, but it's harder to get to work right as a conversion but if you follow the guide I think you should be fine. If you go down the DTA route, you can truly release all the engine's potential. Do it, it's a fantastic conversion and makes the car feel way better imo. We are here to help!

Ahh balls I need some of these, are heritage still planning to make some or it that not happening anymore?

As far as the Scottish debate goes, well, as an Englishman from the South I don't really care what they do as it's their economy. The only thing I do care about is the Union Jack, I rather like the blue!

It's better to own a big stick and not use it than get beaten up by the kid who saw you were unarmed.

But surely there will be no funding for and therefore no BBC Scotland if it's independant?

Kev how did you guess! Yes I am an engineer. You can see the difference I'm talking about here in the pics below, the thicker c'bored one is more appropriate for the intended use than the thinner c'sunk one. Fla, I like your thinking, it would move the wheel out as you mentioned- but may well suit someone wanting to put stub axle spacers on. I believe the ABS sensor positioning would be a problem though.

A copy of the product Stormcharged posted in post no 11 would work fine, and would probably be about £50 per pair for manufacture, plus a bit for hassle. If Rodmax doesn't want to do any more then I'm willing to supply some. I also have some stub axle spacers made, they are 20mm thick, what offset do people want?

I would never normally speak badly about a product that someone puts time and effort into making, but seriously Rodmax, from an engineering point of view what you have shown there is dangerous. There is nothing wrong with the concept, just the execution. You need to use low headed socket head cap screws (DIN 7984 or 6912) in a thicker plate rather than c'sunk ones in a thin one for 3 reasons. 1. Where the nuts are welded into the chassis they are unlikely to be positioned the same every time- despite the jigging, this means that the countersinks in the plate will not line up with the holes and due to the c'sink faces being conical the screws cannot self centre and therefore seat properly- this leads to loosening screws or high side loads on the screw head which leads to failure. 2 Because you've used relatively thin plate you have very little contact area between the c'sunk screws and the plate. The rear beam can be subjected to very high side loads -lets say someone goes around a corner, loses the back and knocks a curb with the rear wheel. On a standard rear beam assembly the stub axle would bend and probably/maybe the rear beam. With what you have done there the weakest link would be the small conical contact patch under the bolt heads possibly leading to the bracket peeling off and hence a loose rear beam which could have much more serious implications. 3. You simply don't have enough thread engagement for the hex screws with that thin plate. A counter-bored hole in a thicker plate allows for any bolt pattern misalignment and retains a large area under the head of the bolt preventing the bracket from tearing loose. Yes it will be more expensive to make but much much safer. Rant over. I may come across like an arse but I'd feel worse if something happened and didn't say anything. If you're selling parts to the public that are chassis, braking or even drivechain related, you really need to get it tested or approved first, even if it's just FEA. If you're not going to do that, at least over engineer it!

Looking for a vehicle speed sensor, screws onto the drive coming out of the top of the gearbox, part no. 191919149D, do you happen to still have it?

VR6 Vehicle Speed Sensor, the one screwed into the gearbox. Part No. 191919149D

Well done that's a fast turnaround! They sound nice eh?

I don't think you should be so judgemental on the evidence given!

It's great for R32 engine conversions, it slots in like this- I used it because it looks oem.