sankysvr6

It does make it slightly quieter gives a more of a quality feel inside, I put it inside the doors as well which helped loads and made a nice thud when closing the doors. You can hear the sound of the doors change, when you tap it with and without the tape.

I used the tape like above I'm previous Highline, just to help the cabin a little more quieter.

Not sure really never compared the 2, I guess it all comes down to how you are going to be using. i.e. sprinter/cruiser or for an ICE install.

Maybe better to try another dealer, as other dealers may still have stock. Are you sure they have been discontinued, as they are same on a range of VW's upto 2000. Make sure you supply the part number with the B. As just the numbers will come up with a blank on the system. 191501639B

Dynamat or use lead flashing on the floor for sound deadening and maybe put some new underlay under the carpets. Maybe fit one of those short shifts from Dave16, and through clean of the carpets.

Its probably the baud rate of the scanner, that wont let it talk to the older cars. Why not just buy one of those USB VAGCOM leads off ebay and run the free software from Ross-Tech, off a laptop?

I've used the same glue 3M 80 and its still held on. Did you degrease the bonnet first, and let the glue get tacky for a minute?

Well the weather was amazing this weekend and the misses was to work. So what better then spend the afternoon cleaning out the front wheel arches.

A tip for fitting these, is to wet the leather once fitted on the handle and then grip it with your hand to shape it for the finger pattern. Just squeeze it to get the water out as much as you can, then let it dry before fitting. For that OEM finish

You will find 2 bolts behind the arch liner, the third one is front of the intercooler. But there should be an air duct in front of it that will stop you getting access. Unless yours is missing like the persons in that link, then you won't need to take the bumper off.

If it's a G60, you will need to remove the front bumper to get the intercooler off. As for cleaning I sprayed brake cleaner in there till ran clear, the sprayed some more and shook it about and and drained. Repeated this till the can was empty. Then filled the intercooler with washing and up liquid and water. Let it sit for a bit, then rinse out with water.

I would just paint the control arms up for now, and keep look out for some second hand. That you can have powdercoated and new bushes pressed yourself. Then just giving to a garage to have them fitted.

Has you car got ABS? I think the cover is more to help the stub axle bolts from falling out and help keep the ABS sensor clean. I paid around £3.59 in March this year for them.

The next job on the list was to look at the oil leak on the return line form the supercharger to the engine block, I originally thought this must be the crush washer at the end of the pipe, but it turned out to be an O-Ring on the bracket that I didn't know about. This was all cleaned up and new O-Ring fitted on the bracket, as well as a new crush washer on the return pipe just to be sure. Whilst I was at it I also gave the engine bay and wiring looms a bit of a tidy up. Also replaced the worn out tensioner bushes with some home made jobbies. Also reconditioned the carbon canister whilst I was waiting for new parts to arrive. Had to machine a new bottom for it, as I had to cut it open I reconditioned the active charcoal by setting it alight to burn the fumes that had collected on it, this took a good few hours. All built back up and ready to be fitted. This last picture was just to see how the wheels looked against the refurbed callipers, just waiting for the new tyres to arrive now.

So started the refurb on the front brakes, to match up to the same quality and time put in the fronts. Went for a complete strip down and a recondition of the callipers with seals and pistons. As you can see the one of the pistons were badly pitted, so just ordered a pair of new ones from BigRed. The new seals and dust boots were ordered from VW. Also had the callipers and dust shields powder coated. Callipers Everything stripped and cleaned ready for the re-fit, also changed the front ABS sensor to save on stripping it all down again. I also replace the standard brake hoses to braided ones, but for some reason they didn't come with the standard bungs on the hoses like the originals. So I had to use some gentle persuasion to get them off the old hoses and fit them to the new ones. The next job was to change the power steering fluid and also the belts at the same time. The old fluid looked a little passed it, this was replaced with some genuine fluid. Think I might do another change in a few months time, once the new fluid has circulated all round.

If its just the leather that has warned away on the handbrake handle, why not just remove the old leather and fit a new piece on. I bought this one and re trimmed it myself, its not hard. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/black-stitch-FITS-VW-CORRADO-88-95-LEATHER-HANDBRAKE-HANDLE-COVER-/351000479569?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item51b9424751

Can't wait to see this, I wonder which of the common problems the corrado will have. Hope they have a sunroof problem, and explain the best way about fixing it.

Not clued up on the sunroof. But for the spoiler, you could repair this your self with some basic tools. Probably best reporting back what it is, or not doing when you get the car.

Do you think you could highlight these problem areas, with a picture of the underside of the car. Just so we know which areas we should look at on our own cars.

Is the boost return pipe still available?

Is the boost return pipe available?

I would go for a volt gauge as you can read the oil temp from the MFA.

Stick 'clbpol25' in the discount code for ECP and get 25% off.

Just seen and read this whole thread, some fantastic work going on.

Has anyone rebuilt the carbon canister rather then just removing it? I know the majority think there is no need for it and they would prefer to just bin it so they can get more cold air in. But I want to try and keep the G60 as stock as possible and would rather keep it all there, just as it was intended. After reading many post about the canister, it seems they are only good for around 100K or so. Which gave me the idea of maybe trying to rebuild it.