G60_Marc

Past few days: Dropped the subframe and gave it a damn good clean. Fitted some powerflexed wishbones. I stripped down my leaking steering rack and rebuilt it with all new seals, greased it up and fitted new genuine vw rack boots and uj boot (no vw specific tools were required for the rebuild!) Also fitted a powerflex steering rack mount. Flushed steering system out with new vw fluid and filled up with new vw steering fluid. Re-fitted subframe, rack and wishbones. (car on axle stands and i was out in the dark with a howling wind, not fun) Adjusted the sterring racks tension. Fitted some new genuine vw cv boots. Tweaked up the rear bearings after a few thou miles of use. The steering rack looked to be only a few years old and was in mint condition internally. It looks as if the previous owner or rack fitter didn't use vw specific fluid in it which might be the cause of the seals failing. The steering now feels as good as new. PASSED MOT TODAY 1st time and 0 advisories :clap: i should flippin hope so too. :lol: p.s. I really enjoyed watching the car come backwards off the rollers when he pulled on the handbrake. My previous brake refurb, pads and cables has worked a treat. :grin:

I watched a mint half leather golf rallye recaro interior go for £1750 ish the other week on ebay and thought :shock: I wouldn't be suprised if these go for the same kind of money. I watched them up until they went over £800.

Mk2 golf washers will fit. Genuine corrado heated washer jets are obsolete. They do come up on ebay now and again, I bought a pair on ebay last week. Non heated mk2 replicas: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-MK2-MK3-G ... 2c5603672a

My parts arrived today :clap: 1H0 498 020 for trw rack, new boots and some fluid. I will have a crack at it this weekend. Any tips and info would be much appreciated! Any idea what the white sticker is for :confused4: it was in a bag with the seals. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfSL372219.JPG[/attachment:3en1o65o] SL372221.JPG[/attachment:3en1o65o]

Me too :luvlove: Well, it really has been a busy few weeks. An exhaust manifold to turbo stud snapped due to a worn out rear engine mount which meant that the cylinder head had to come off (again!) to get access to it. While i was at it i stripped the engine bay loom out and removed all of the loom tape, cleaned every single wire, replaced many of the amp plugs, repaired many worn out old cables, integrated an uprated headlight loom into the cars original loom, rewired the injector loom with all new plugs and wires and removed the old headlight loom and o2 sensor loom. I diverted the old o2 sensor cables to run my wideband. fitted the complete loom into black split ducting. While it was off the road i decided to spend a bit of cash on her. work done so far: AP Racing CP5200 4 pot calipers. AP Racing brackets for Corrado 4 stud. AP Racing bells. AP Racing discs, 294mm x 28mm, 4 groove, 48 angled vanes. Goodridge braided AP to Corrado front brake hoses. EBC red stuff front pads for AP CP5200. 4 x 17" 4 stud bbs rc's. Aquamist 1s water/metth Injection kit. Mocal alloy catch tank. New vibra-technics front engine mount. (mk2 golf vr6 conversion type) New vibra-technics rear engine mount. (fast road) KW rear anti roll bar. Powder coated and powerflexed front wishbones. Greddy turbo timer. New reiger front grille with eyebrow. 2 New heated washer jets, genuine vw. New reverse light switch, genuine vw. £150 of mikalor stainless steel hose clamps. New cv boots, genuine vw. New steering rack boots, genuine vw. G12++ coolant. New oil filter, genuine vw. New oil. New oil filter housing, genuine vw. New knock sensor. Elring G60 head gasket set and Elring head bolts. New exhaust manifold studs and nuts. New turbo to manifold studs and nuts. New battery. Aluminum backed fiberglass heat shielding for harness and firewall. Lots of harnessflex engine loom split duct with y,t and amp plug end fittings. Lots of thin wall cable, various sizes and colors. Lots of spade type crimps. Lots of solder and heat shrink. 2 x 70A relays and 70A fuses and holders for headlights. New AMP fuel injector plugs and wireing (wired ready for future possible sequential injection) Waterproof enclosure for relays. Osram night breaker bulbs. BG44K Pro Grade Fuel Injector & Fuel System Cleaner. Cleaned and painted the engine block. Stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the rear calipers, now they work as they should. Adjusted the handbrake. Adjusted the bias valve. Fitted a new kenwood kiv-700 media headunit and a 160 gig black ipod classic. PICTURES Probably a few other things i missed lol. My back aches but my "to do" list is slowly getting smaller! :clap: And next week im going to strip down the steering rack (oh joy of joys) Ive ordered a new full trw rack seal kit from vw but it is stuck in France at the moment due to the recent strikes :( Next... :salute:

I have ordered that set from vw today, it is currently on back order. :( My car has a slow leak on the drivers side of the rack. The rack has no play etc. in it at all so i would rather fix it than gamble on a 2nd hand rack. I'm going to get the rack off and get stuck in as soon as i get hold of the seals. Will post up some info/pics.

Sorry to hear the bad news chap :( The same thing happened to a mates mk2 rocco on the day he bought it. The car was immaculate for its age. His car sustained very similar damage to yours. Because of the cars condition and nature of the shunt he managed to get the other drivers insurance to pay for his to be fixed and not written off. The body shop did a top job leaving only a tiny crease in the boot floor near the suspension. Hope the same will happen for the nugget. I very nearly had a rear end shunt myself just yesterday. I was on an open A road in Herefordshire with a tractor turning right into a field ahead. All of the traffic ahead of me had stopped. Now, i always look in my rear mirror when stationary for any reason as i am aware of the damage a rear end shut that you have no control of can do. What did i see in my mirror, a people carrier whith a woman using her phone coming at me and not slowing! I put on the hazards got on and off the brake pedal and also got on the horn. All i could do was watch her panic, hit the brakes and luckily come to a stop with the abs doing its stuff big time. If i hadnt been looking and acted im sure it would of been a very bad smash. And that is not the 1st time such a thing had happened to me. Sometimes i think it would be a good idea to fit a loud horn to the rear end of the car and some police style flashing stobe lights to the rear shelf to wake these numpties up! Good luck getting it all sorted out.

A few things that might help: The red/white wire at the sensor plug comes from fuse #18 and is switched via the ecu relay. This relay is controled by the ecu. Fuse #18 also feeds the fuel pump. The red/white wire feeding the sensor should only become live (+12v) when the engine is running, and not when the ignition is just switched on. The brown wire at the sensor plug should be connected to earth (battery negative) via the engine mount. Make sure engine block has a good earth to the battery. The black wire inside the 2 core cable running from the ecu to the sensor is the screen and is wrapped around the purple signal wire as it travels up the cable. It will be connected to earth inside the sensor via the brown earth wire when the sensor is plugged in. The purple wire inside the 2 core cable is the signal from the sensor to the ecu. The easiest way to test the output of the sensor would be to tap a wire onto the purple cable of the sensors loom (car side) and run this wire up to your multi-meters positive and put the multi-meter negative lead to earth. Set the meter to the d.c. voltage range that is as close to 1 volt or more, not less. With the sensor plugged in start up the car. With the engine running you should see the voltage on the meter fluctuating between 0 - 1v Also sending an iginition switched +12v to the sensors red/white wire is not a good idea as it will shorten the sensors life.

one on ebay at the mo, looks mint. (not mine) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volkswagon-Corrad ... 45f5d490d7

If you want cheap get a narrowband (ive got an auto-gauge LED one here if you want it £20 posted) simply give it an ignition switched +12v positive and -12v negative and connect its input into the purple wire on the stock sensors plug. or for accurate readings get a wideband set up. With a wideband you can remove the stock o2 sensor and replace it with the wideband sensor as most wideband systems have a simulated narrowband 0 - 1v output to connect to the cars original ecu. Aftermarket ecu's are different as they can read wideband output 0 - 5v. This is what i did on my 91 G60 with stock digifant ecu: Removed stock sensor and replaced it with bosch 4.2 wideband sensor (same size thread as my original sensor) Chopped the old sensor plug off the loom and pulled the red/white +12v feed and the black 2 core (purple and black inside) out of the engine bay loom and pulled them back into the car above the fuse board. I used the +12v red/white to power the wideband controler, the black wire (inside the 2 core cable) to the wideband controlers -12v negative and also connected to the cars earth and the purple wire (again inside the 2 core cable) connected to the simulated narrowband output on the wideband box to send a 0 - 1v siganl to the ecu. By using the red/white +12v the wideband turns on only when the cars engine starts up and it is also fused via the ecu. It is better to use the old sensors +12v as its not good to have the wideband start up without the engine running which will happen if connected to an ignition switched +12v But remember if you do it that way and you later sell the car the wideband will have to stay in unless you re-install the narrowband and its wireing. Hope that helps.

1st thing to check would be the single wire that is located just above the injector rail that connects to a temp sensor. If the cable is damaged/disconnected etc. and it touches anything earthed the fan will run on even with the key out and car locked.

Another easy way for anyone who maybe interested is to break apart an old style windcreen wiper blade remove one of the thin steel strips from inside the rubber (most have them inside) Bend it in half and there is your tool.

16v Turbo setup for sale on ed38 http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... pic=332890

While re-wireing my engine bay I recently bought a set of these: Durite terminal extraction set. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... gterms.php Click the picture of the green and pink things for a closer look. A little pricey but they have removed pretty much every pin ive thrown at them so far and also handy to have in the toolbox for the future. You could make a tool to do the same job.

Not today but over the past 2 weeks. This started out as a snapped stud on the turbo manifold so i had to remove the head to gain access to it. I then got a bit carried away saying "well while im at it i should do this, this, this, and this" :lol: I've got 2 weeks off work to get it all done. AP Racing CP5200 4 pot calipers. AP Racing brackets for Corrado 4 stud. AP Racing bells. AP Racing discs, 294mm x 28mm, 4 groove, 48 angled vanes. Goodridge braided AP to Corrado front brake hoses. EBC red stuff pads for AP CP5200. Aquamist 1s Water Injection kit. Mocal alloy catch tank. £150 of mikalor stainless steel hose clamps. All new cv boots. (genuine vw) 3 x G12++ coolant. Oil filter. (genuine vw) Elring headgasket set and Elring head bolts. Exhaust manifold studs and nuts. (genuine vw) Loads of aluminium and fibreglass heat sheilding. Vibratechnics front engine mount. (mk2 golf vr6 conversion heavy duty one) 440cc lime green injectors. Reiger front grille. Loads of harnessflex engine loom duct and y,t and amp plug end fittings. (full engine loom strip down, clean, cut, splice, repair, and intergrated uprated headlight loom) Loads of thin wall cable. (various sizes and colours) Loads of spade type crimps. Loads of solder and heat shrink. 2 x 70A relays and 70A fuses and holders. (for headlights) New AMP fuel injector plugs and wireing (wired ready for future sequential injection) Waterproof enclosure for relays. Osram nightbreaker bulbs. 4x100 to 5x130 hub adaptors. (for future porka wheels) BG44K Pro Grade Fuel Injector & Fuel System Cleaner. lots more little bits n bobs ive probably forgot.

Same here :confused4:

You really need to know what pulley/injector size the 5.5 chip was written for. If it is mapped for larger injectors your fueling will be out on full throttle, not good. I have an SNS 5.5 here that is programmed for a 65mm pulley and red top injectors with fuel pressure at 3 bar. One thing im pretty sure of is that all 5.5 chips are for 3 bar fpr, earlier versions needed a 3.5 bar fpr.

Odd looking charger on the 4th page, Polo G40 ?

Do the ignition lights come on? If they do a few things you could check would be ignition switch, relays, the cable and its connector that go to the starters solenoid (thick red/black on my G60), the solenoid itself (run a wire with +12v from the battery to the solenoid +12v terminal and the starter should turn over, also check that the large +12v and the earth cables from the battery to the starter motor are connected tight and that there is no corrosion on the terminals. Do you have an immobiliser? could be faulty. Use a multimeter to test the various things.

Mine does a similar thing from time to time. The car is running fine then i stop it to get fuel etc. get back in and nothing. Turn the key to the run position and the fuel pumps prime, ignition lights are on, but nothing when the key is turned to the starter position. All wireing has been checked and is ok, starter is ok as is its solenoid. If i turn the key a few times or sometimes wait a while at some point it will start up as if nothing happened. Im thinking on mine that it could be the iginition switch. Probably only happens 1 out of 100 journeys.

Nice. The best ive done so far on ebay was back in april. I managed to get a set of nearly brand new early style headlights for 99p with free delivery. They arrived very well packaged in bubble wrap, shredded cardboard etc. and recorded delivery too. and they were totaly mint, not a mark on either of the glass or reflectors all tabs adjusters perfect. I was well chuffed. Gonna be selling them soon for a lot more than that as ive just changed to late headlights :grin:

Maybe the Lambda sensor or its wires near the exhaust.

ARZ sell them also http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_i ... nlets.html

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-MK2-LATCH ... 335f45269b http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-CORRADO-front- ... 20b25c4fb4

Fitted some brand new late front indicators. So now i finally have the full set, mint late head lights, mint late fog lights, and mint late indicators. :dance: