leon263

Not easy I'm afraid. You can only get access to the back of the speakers by removing the door cards, they are mounted into the speaker pods from the rear.

On the Corrado, the audio signal goes from the head unit to the dash tweeters first and from there down to the front doors. Take the dash tweeters out and have a look. There should be four wires on the back of each tweeter ....... two in and two out, down to the door. If they are all there and conected, check the back of speakers in the doors. If the wires are present and attached there might be a break in the wire from the tweeter or you may have a duff speaker. The wires to the rear speakers run directly from the head unit to the speaker so, if they are there and attched then a broken wire or duff speaker could be the problem. The tweeters are below the grills at either end of the dash. To remove the grills, simply lever them out with a fine bladed screwdriver.

Spotted on Edition 38 ............ 17 x 7, 4 x 100, et35 Speedlines for £275. Check out the link below. http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=540965

Check out the link below for the shelf rubbers ......... they are a Seat part but they are the correct length and fit the Corrado perfectly. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seat-IBIZA-II-TOLEDO-I-HATCH-PARCEL-SHELF-STRAPS-x2-NEW-1L0863447-/271713638194?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f43651732&clk_rvr_id=825751629942&rmvSB=true

You have PM re. price, payment details etc.

CE2 fuse box number is 357 937 039 and it would have been common to all models from around 1990. I'm pretty sure I have on here from a 2 litre Mk3 Golf if you are interested.

Oooops........... senior moment there!

£35.90 delivered .............. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corrado-Genuine-VW-Power-Steering-Fluid-Container-Reservoir-Nos-/331479387243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d2db60c6b

I stumbled across this site to-day totally by accident and it may well be of interest to other Forum members. Based in Athens, it is showing a wide range of OEM Corrado parts. Well worth a browse if you have time to spare. Click on the link below and select the Corrado section. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/NK-AUTOMOTIVE

Yeah, I do believe you are correct in relation to the Mk2s.

I'm pretty sure both bolts are the same but the upper and lower holes in the strut mounting may be different to allow the movement to adjust camber. Vag Cat also only show the one bolt in their parts list. I have an unused set of Eibach camber bolts here for the Corrado if you would be interested. They are eccentric and you can adjust the camber just by rotating the bolt........ £15 inc. postage and instructions.

Again, aksing the obvious ......... I assume you do have a set of RCA leads running from the rear of the radio down to the amp to supply the audio signal. If so, have a look on the control panel of the amp for a gain control. This is a small rotary control on the amp which basically controls the volume. With everything switched on, try rotating it fully clockwise which would be full volume and see if that makes any difference. Failing that, could you possibly post a photo showing all the connections you have made and all the control settings on the amp, just to see if anything obviously wrong stands out.

Correct, you should get a reading if there is power at the remote terminal when the radio is switched on and no reading when the radio is switched off.

I assume you have earthed the amp and that there is a fuse in the fuse holder in the power supply cable to the amp. Use a multimeter to check that you have power at the positive terminal on the amp and that you have power at the remote terminal on the amp when the radio is on. If you have power at both terminals and a good earth then you may have a problem with the actual amp. Check the amp and see if there are any 'on board' fuses on view anywhere. Some amps will have one or more blade fuses plugged into them on the terminal panel for on board protection. If you find any, check them too.

Showing the same part number as the VW Heritage one.

Clutch slave cylinder would be a good place to start and it's a fairly easy DIY job. I replaced mine around a year ago and the original literally came out in bits. A quick search for a VR6 Corrado clutch slave cylinder on e-bay will show a selection. I paid in the high £40s for the one I used but they can be had cheaper. The link below is a typical example. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-VW-Corrado-Coupe-VR6-1989-1995-2-9L-190-BHP-Top-German-/201059638140?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item2ed0169b7c

Having owned and driven two of each I say there really is not much to choose from a performance point of view. The driving experience is totally different with the G60 needing to be driven to deliver the performance whereas the VR is just a big lazy lump which has loads of torque in any gear which delivers effortless refined power. I'd think that the G60 would be the more expensive in the long term what with supercharger re-builds etc. The VR is surprisingly economical unless it's all town driving and mpg in the 30s would be quite common. Personally the VR is the one for me and the later interior is just that bit nicer too. At the end of the day it's all down to personal preference so try to test drive a couple of each and make your own mind up.

Finally got round to fitting a Mk4 Golf expansion tank and Porsche oil and coolant caps............. can't understand why it took so long. Be aware that the Porsche coolant cap will not fit the standard expansion tank, only the later tank with the blue cap. Well pleased with the result even if it's only because I can actually unscrew the coolant cap by hand!

Have a look at the thread below and then have a look at yours ......... just a thought. Just another thought........ check the wheel studs on the front wheels, my son recently got his Mk4 Golf 18t back after a mechanic mate replaced both front wishbones and experienced similar symptoms before he discovered four loose studs and a missing one on the front off-side wheel. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=90548

Mine were in that state when I bought them but rather than re-cover them I just stripped them and painted them body colour to bring a bit of colour into the cabin ......... just an option.

These would be for a late model Corrado with the window switches on the pods. Early cars had the widow switches on the door card ......great upgrade in any case.

Don't forget that you will need a 'remote on' wire from the rear of the head unit down to the 'remote on' terminal on the amp. You should find a 'remote on' wire on the back of the head unit, normally blue with a white stripe. Basically, it sends a small current from the head unit to the amp to tell it to switch on when you switch the head unit on.

I have that very hose in the garage, surplus to requirements, from a 2.8 Golf engine and compete with the standard clamps. I'm guessing from your terminology that you are not in the UK so this post is probably irrelevant. If you have trouble sourcing it......... it is here.

I'd get in under the rear of the car and see how much clearance you currently have between the TT Comps and the suspension strut or spring. If you have more than 14mm then you should be OK.

The yellow does nothing for me, back to standard or maybe a light smoke tint on all the front lights a set of tinted repeaters for a moody look.