leon263

I have both metal door pins as shown below but sadly I don't have any of the plastic parts. £10 posted First Class ? .......... let me know.

Powering the crossovers from the head unit would certainly work OK. In the original set up on the Corrado, the power from the head unit goes firstly to the dash mounted tweeters and from there down to the doors. You will find two connectors on the back of the dash mounted tweeter, one in and one out. To avoid cutting any cables you could just extend the cable from the head unit to the tweeter and run it into the crossover and from there runs cables to your new tweeters and woofers.

Shouldn't be a problem.

If you have a look at the crossovers you will see that there are two input terminals (+ and -), tweeter outputs (+ and -), woofer (door speaker) outputs (+ and -) and, if you are using the Diamond Audio crossovers you bought from me, RAF (rear ambient fill) outputs (+ and -) In a normal system the tweeters and woofers would be wired to the outputs on the crossovers. In the case of the Diamond Audio crossover, the rear speakers could also be wired to the crossover. Normally the input signal to the crossover would come from an amp in the boot, the crossover would do it's job and send the relevant frequencies to the relevant speakers. You could supply the input signal to the crossover by using the front speaker leads from the head unit but you would be doing the speakers no justice due to the low power output of the head unit. I've never seen it done and I'd really recommend the use of a multi channel amp in the boot. If there is no RAF output on the crossover the rear speakers will run off the head unit as usual while the front end speakers will run off the amp. You should be looking at using a three or four channel amp which would allow for the future use of a sub. In the case of a three channel amp you would wire the crossovers to outputs one and two on the amp and use channel three to drive a sub if required. In the case of a four channel amp, use channels one and two as above for the front end and then bridge channels three and four to drive the sub. Bridging merely means using the + output on channel three and the - output on channel four. The terminals will be clearly marked on the amp should you wish to use it in bridged mode. Installing an amp is simplicity. Run a fused 4 gauge power cable directly from the battery to the amp, earth the amp in the boot or under the rear seat to any handy bolt, run a 'remote on' wire from the back of the head unit to the amp. This tells the amp to switch on when you turn the head unit on. The 'remote on' cable on the back of the head unit will be blue with a white trace and should be clearly labelled. Run an RCA cable from the back of the head unit to the amp to supply the audio signal. Depending on the quality of your head unit there may be front, front and rear or front, rear and sub woofer RCA outputs. In a basic, no sub, set up use the front output. As you mentioned, keep the power cable well away from the RCA cable to avoid interference and if you buy a four gauge amp wiring kit, it will contain everything you need. Any question ............ fire away.

Check the 'cars for sale section' ........... where have you been the last few days?

Knock the remains of the old clips on through the bulkhead so that you are just left with a series of holes. Place the new clips into the holes in the bodywork and then tap the pin down through the clip with a hammer until it is flush with the top of the clip When you tap the pin down it spreads out the little legs on the base of the clip and lock it into place.

Great price for a quality set of hoses if red's your thing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221477316815?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The photo below shows a 195/45 on a 7 x 16 rim at the front ............. 205/45 on an 8 x16 rim at the back

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=87269

I'm fairly sure the cables and shifter are common to all models. I've got a pair of cables here still attached the shifter box although the actual gear lever has been removed. The part numbers on the actual cables are 1H0 711 265 and 1HO 711 266. I'd be happy to sell you a single cable, both cables or the whole lot if it's any good to you. I also have a set of two cables which have been removed from the shifter box. Part numbers on them are KUO 535 711 265 and KUO 535 711 266 Photos below. Again. either or both cables are available. I've just checked VagCat (vag parts catalogue) and its shows the cables as part numbers 1H0 711 265 and 1H0 711 266, so you may well be in luck. Check out the VagCat link below the photos below, the shift cables are numbers 30 and 31 on the list and they are common to all models from 1989 to 1995. http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1990/76/55/846444/

I've just had a look at my '94 VR and it has the height adjusting function on both front seats. That being the case, 535881253 would be the passenger seat handle and 535881254 would be the drivers seat handle in a right hand drive car. Check your passenger seat, maybe the handle is just missing.

Check the link below if all else fails, the screws are countersunk M5 x 12. I think the part number you posted refers to the handle for the front/ back adjuster. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-DRIVERS-OFF-RIGHT-SIDE-SEAT-HEIGHT-ADJUSTMENT-HANDLE-VR6-16V-8V-G60-/271511331375?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f3756222f

Bear in mind that when fitting a new screen you will also require the seal that goes up either side of, and across the top of the screen as well as the two trim pieces that go up either side of the screen. Normally supplied with the glass but be sure to check.

Check out the link below. ARZ Tuning, a German company. http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p634_Windshield-with-trim-seals---VW-Corrado.html

I'll have one please ......... leon263 x 1

On it's way mate, posted First Class at 16.49 to-day.

Yeah, I've got an original rubber one here in good condition, complete with the grey plastic connector. Part number 021 103 493 A £10 posted?

Mine is the same, as was my last VR6 ............... who knows?

I completely lost the clutch on my '94 VR6 recently and got away with just fitting a new slave cylinder at around £44 so it might be worth trying that before you buy both. It can be done from above without removing anything else. I did consider the master cylinder as shown at the link above, but if you read the small print in the ad. it does state that it's for a left hand drive car ......... not sure if that would matter or not but in the event it wasn't necessary anyway.

Officially referred to on VagCat as an Air Guide Part number is 535805825C for the left side and 535805826A for the right side.

The left hand one is available from ARZ Tuning at €79.95 but the right hand one has not been listed for quite some time. http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p630_Roof-Trim---left-side---VW-Corrado.html

Part numbers below, Google the part number for an image. It's a plastic clip which slides onto a lever to the back of the door latch mechanism, the rod then clips into the plastic clip. 357837083 ............ Left 357837084 ............ Right

Part numbers for white plastic clips and rubber inserts as below. Clips from your dealer, inserts from Classic Parts in Germany, ordered through VW Heritage. Clip, 535 853 832 A 03C x 10 required, still available from the main dealer, around 70p each inc VAT. Insert sleeve to sit in the windscreen lower framework, 535 853 837, classic part as of 01 Feb 12.

You have PM

Photo of smoked protectors as requested