leon263

I think the general consensus of opinion would be 16s for 'go' and 17s for 'show'. The standard Speedlines on the Corrado are 6.5 inches wide and are ET43 so fitment is a consideration. Even the 7.5 wide 16s will sit a further 31mm out due to the difference in width and offset and if the 8.5s are also ET25 you can add another 12.5mm to that which I would think could lead to clearance problems. If you could get the BSXs in a higher off-set, say ET 35, they would be a better bet. Check out the off-set calculator at the link below .......... enter the widths manually and alter to off-set figures using the plus and minus buttons and you'll get the resulting difference in fitment. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

The photos below show the washer jet arrangement from a MK3 Golf. The Corrado set up is identical except that the grey tube on the Corrado is approx 1 inch longer. To remove the set up simply pull the black jet part out from above and then pull the grey tube out from below. I successfully used the Mk3 parts by extending the grey tube by using part of the broken Corrado original. I cut it to length and taped it to the Mk3 Part using thin brown parcel tape. Its a bit of trial and error but once installed it worked perfectly until the wiper motor packed up later on. (totally unrelated). Installation is simply the reverse of the removal procedure, push the tube in from the bottom and the nozzle from the top. I've since sourced a complete replacement motor so if you fancy a play with these parts drop me your name and delivery address and I'll pop them in the post to you.

There are only the two holes at the front of mine which would appear to be the norm.

You are quite correct Jim, I've just checked on VagCat. The strip locates over a set of pins on the lower edge of the door and is held in place by double sided tape and the clips.

I need some of those clips too so post up a part number if and when you get them.

Whilst not a cure for the cause, a cure for the symptoms is to put a couple of de-humidifier bags in the car, one on the dash and one on the rear shelf. I bought a couple a few years back and they cured the condensation problem in my Corrado which lives on the drive all year round. The link below shows typical bags but a search on e-bay for 'de-humidifier bags' will turn up hundreds. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-Large-DRY-AIR-CAR-HOME-DEHUMIDIFIER-BAG-MOISTURE-ABSORBER-/171271771237?pt=UK_Car_Interior_Accessories&hash=item27e097d465

You could try the solution as shown in the photo below which I used in my Mk3 Golf Cabby. The light in question is a US spec. daytime running light that I picked up in one of the many forums I visit. Originally it would have been mounted from behind so I basically cut the relevant sized hole in the bumper and glued it in from behind. I then fitted a chrome indicator bulb and extended the wires from the original side repeater ....... job done. I have seen similar Corrado specific US side repeaters, which are orange, advertised from time to time which seem to mount from the front into a recess in the bumper but I quite like the clear version that I have used. If you do a search on Google Images for Corrado USA spec side markers you'll find quite a few pics.

I recently replaced all the hoses on my VR6 with a set of Venair silicone ones and I have the original hose that you require if you are stuck. It runs from the cylinder head to the heater matrix with an offshoot to the throttle body. Internal diameter at each end would be approx. 19mm. It is marked with the numbers 1H0 121157 and PXO13323 and is in excellent condition with no signs of wear , splits or cracks. All three original clips are also present. Let me know if you would be interested.

Those symptoms sound very familiar to ones which I experienced a few months back. As mentioned above, the culprit turned out to be the slave cylinder on the gearbox. I sourced a new one on e-bay for around £45 and removal was as simple as removing the hydraulic feed pipe and two mounting bolts which can be done without removing anything else. Lift the old one out, fit the new one, replace the hydraulic feed and bleed it ........ job done.

Happy bidding ............. still available from VW if you miss out. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Volkswagen-Clutch-Release-Bearing-And-Clutch-Arm-02T-141-153-F-/271647697815?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f3f76eb97

Just received my headlight switch from Matt to-day. A quality item at a very reasonable price and delivered without delay ............ buy with confidence! Many thanks again for your time and effort on behalf of Forum members Matt.

Very bottom of the main page ......... Wiki and knowledge base ............ Wiki exterior .......... T .......... tinting rear lights http://wiki.the-corrado.net/tinting_rear_lights.html

There is a comprehensive guide in the Wiki section on this Forum. Have a look at 'Tinting rear lights' under the letter T in the 'Exterior' section.

Standard wheels will be 6.5, ET43. Simple maths says that you will have 32mm less clearance behind the fronts and they will extend another 18mm. You will have 39mm less clearance behind the rears which will extend another 25mm. I'd think that you will certainly need spacers behind the wheels to clear the struts and obviously the width of the spacer will bring the wheel out by the same amount. I'm not quite sure how you would work out the width of the spacers without having a selection of them to try. Perhaps some-one else who has a similar set-up will jump in and help.

There is one on e-bay at £29.95 ............. ouch. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK3-2-0-16V-GTI-ABF-OIL-LEVEL-DIPSTICK-051115611B-/281447579378?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4187953ef2

You have PM.

The heated mirror glass has long been obsolete from VW but is widely available on the after market scene. You could spend 99.95 euro per side buying replacements from ARZ Tuning in Germany (an excellent, if pricey, source of obsolete parts and well worth a browse) or you could buy replacements at around £13 on e-bay which come complete with the heating elements and plastic backing plates. I installed a set about 18months ago and it's all good so far. As stated, you can, with a lot of patience, remove the backing plates from the original glass and re-use it but I just went with the glass as supplied. The backing plate and glass just clip onto the motor and you can simply prise them off. If you tilt the mirror either fully up or down it gives you more space for your lever. Once removed, you will see the two wires going to the heating element. There are mini female spades on the wires and mini male spades on the glass. They will be well rusted by now and if they haven't already broken off they probably will when you try to remove the wires. Fitting the new glass is just a case of plugging in the wires and snapping the glass into place on the motor. The pic. below shows the two original backing plates which I removed form my original mirrors.

Sorry I can't help with both outer bulb holders but they are readily available on e-bay, if not on here. You may have more difficulty sourcing the loom and plug but they are not really necessary. If you check out the photo below, all will become clear. The plug on the loom goes into the bottom right area of the bulb holder and has four connectors in it. You will clearly see that the four connectors are marked on the rear of the bulb holder as BL,58,BR and 31. They are in the form of four male spades where the loom plugs in. You will also see a number of other male spades on the rear of the bulb holder marked in a similar fashion. If you crimp a female spade onto your existing wires and plug them onto the correct spade, everything will work. The existing wiring colours are as below ......... Passenger side bulb holder ..... BL ........ Black/ white 58 ........ Grey/ black BR ........ Black/ red 31 ........ Brown Drivers side bulb holder ..... BL ........ Black/green 58 ........ Grey/ red BR ........ Double black/ red 31 ........ Double brown Hope this helps, shout if anything is unclear.

This solution will work perfectly, just cut both wires and change them over ....... re-connect either by soldering or by using crimp in bullet connectors. VW in their wisdom wire their radios the opposite way to everyone else. Normally the wiring loom on the back of the radio will already have push fit connectors in both feed wires so changing them over is easy.

That's exactly the set up that I'm using at the moment ..... two passenger arms with approx. 3cms cut out of the drivers side arm which was welded, dressed and painted. You can use a standard set of Lupo blades and they work perfectly. As mentioned, the arms will not lift fully off the screen with the bonnet closed but you will get them up far enough to wash the screen or change the blades.

I've found over the last couple of weeks that I'm having to regularly 'recover' web pages when the site freezes for no apparent reason .......... not happening on any other frequently visited forums. Anyone else having similar problems or is it just me?

Good question indeed. The instructions are a bit vague on that point and merely say that the bolts will give a range of adjustment from +1.75 degrees to -1.75 degrees. Check out the link below which explains in more detail how they work and what results you can expect. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-1990-1997-Eibach-front-camber-adjuster-bolts-/230584751940?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35afec1744

Yeah, they will suit any Corrado.

Stainless battery clamp. I recently bought one of these stainless battery clamps for my Corrado from Fla on this Forum. I was sufficiently impressed and ordered a second one for my Mk3 Golf VR6 Cabby. The clamp fitted perfectly on the Corrado but due to a totally different battery tray layout on the MK3 the clamp turned out to be unsuitable and is now surplus to requirements. Unused, apart from a trial fitting, the clamp will be supplied with a nice new M8 bolt and washer. List Date: 8/16/2014 For more info, click here to view the original listing: Stainless battery clamp. -------------------------------------- SOLD -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: Stainless battery clamp. Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

Eibach camber adjustment bolts Here we have a set of Eibach camber adjustment bolts for any Corrado model. These bolts replace the top two bolts (one either side) where the struts bolt to the hub. When fitted, the bolts can be rotated and a built in cam arrangement will give up to 1.75 degrees of positive or negative camber. Brand new and unused and complete with fitting instructions on the box. List Date: 8/16/2014 For more info, click here to view the original listing: Eibach camber adjustment bolts -------------------------------------- SOLD -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: Eibach camber adjustment bolts Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!