Simeon
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Everything posted by Simeon
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Wow, you guys are being robbed, laid up policy on my splitscreen van is £35 per year with RH Specialist.
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Cheers for the reply, Mk3 Vr6 will be 5x100 then so you get the different ball joints etc which allows the extra castor. I'm not sure the 4x100 set-up has this advantage?
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Nightmare mate, at least they come out quite easily :) Glad it's not just my manifold that needs 4 hands to get it lined up then. Interesting re the heat wrap, I had a Google last night and it seems that wrapping manifolds is a big no no these days, causes them to crack/rot/destroy themselves etc. There's a company near me in Bradford that coats manifolds, so I might get a quote off them. How are you finding it without any wrap on it? Are underbonnet temps really high now or melting anything else?
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Yeah, I was concerned about that. I was thinking of putting a heat shield of some sort on the actual steering boot too. Couple of questions on the manifold - did it fit ok? Offered mine up and had to force it on somewhat to get it to line up with the studs which seemed odd. Also, the wrapping you did looks really smart, any idea how much heat wrap you used? Cheers
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Yeah, I only took the front off to fit the fmic :lol: I have the Rallye one together with 630mm rad and all factory Rallye pipework :)
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Hi all, I'm fairly new to Corrado ownership - I have only driven my G60 about 1.5hours home from where I bought it and its not moved since. As a result I can't really comment on how it handled (although I remember thinking not very well, no doubt due to the many dodgy bits I've uncovered since). Now, I didn't mean to pull it all apart, but I now have the steering rack / track rods / subframe off and I have all the parts I need off a Mk3 Golf Tdi to go 4x100 widetrack if I want. I have Googled it and there are a few old threads where people comment that wide-tracking 4-pot Corrados isn't really advisable as it ruins the handling characteristics .. this is fairly contrary to my background in Mk2 Golfs where wide-tracking is the be all and end all in handling upgrades (not that I ever did it..). Does anyone on here have real world experience with narrow and wide-track on a 4-pot who can advise whether it is a good idea? Cheers in advance :)
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Decided repair was better than replace as the rest of it is in decent condition. Various threads said that the Mk3 subframe was different too, plus this way I don't need to buy a new rear engine mount :) Obviously engine is out now, have also taken bushes out of the wishbones and stitch welded them. Whipped sump off the engine and removed the oil pump and bigend bearings - new ones on order - then can bolt back together with my windage tray and Shrick sump. Won't get anything done till Saturday now, so will get some more pics then as I know we all like pics ;)
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Located near Huddersfield, West Yorkshire. Collection only. G60 'box CBA code. £100 cash collected
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Few bits off my G60 that I want rid of, thought I'd offer them up before chucking out.. I'm near Huddersfield, West Yorkshire - collection more than welcome. Inlet adaptor - £5 (postage £3.50) Fan and fan shroud - £10 (postage £7.50) Inlet manifold, bit oily on the outside, but good condition - £20 (postage £7.50) Radiator plastics - £5 Closing plate - cambelt to block - £5 Intercooler (pipes etc are now sold) - £10 (postage £7.50) Carbon canister - Free (Postage £10) Fuel rail wiring, off running car, but needs some attention as always - SOLD Fuel run on valve (I think?) - £5
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Thanks for the write up :) I've just bought a set of TT wipers for £25 delivered off ebay and was thinking of chopping a piece out of the arm and welding back together, but your solution is even neater.
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Finally got around to doing a bit more work on this ... it's definitely gone backwards Decided to fit lightened flywheel, new clutch and CTN gearbox. While I was pulling the 'box out I noticed that the subframe is holed :( so that needs to be replaced too .. yay You can just see the hole here Good job I decided to look at the clutch as the springs are no good - you can see the one at the bottom of the pic is completely buggered I'm actually going to pull the engine out as it will just make replacing the subframe easier.
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Don't waste time painting block etc if you're going to actually use it, I did this once when I fitted a G60 in my Jetta and looking at it after 2 months of daily driving I realised I should have spent less time painting and could have had more time driving What size are those Le Castellets? Look like the rare 15"x6.5J ones
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RH Specialist for me - salvage rights, UK and EU breakdown cover, cheap, good to deal with :)
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This made me smile as I'm in exactly the same position, except I already resigned from my accountancy job last September and have been unemployed since December .. I'd finally had enough of KPMG so jacked it in. Sadly I'm finding it hard to really get any enthusiasm for anything else that doesn't require going back to uni. I was hoping to start up something of my own, like you I enjoy practical work, but I dont think I really have an entrepreneurial streak sadly. Currently looking at going 'into industry' as the recruiters put it, found a local engineering firm that make specialist turbo parts that are recruiting .. perhaps they'll let me get out on the shop floor sometime :lol:
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I couldn't find any codes recently so used ECP as they usually have 33% off on weekends.
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I had to buy one recently and thanks to Fords new pricing the cheapest new one I could find was £52 ish off ebay.
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Simple - Location. If it wasn't a 6/7 hour drive from me I'd have bought it :) Looks a lovely motor, glws :)
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What set-up are you running? Presumably just a 68mm pulley and appropriate chip? [Edit; sorry just noticed you said it has been cammed. Has it got bigger injectors or a 3.5 bar fpr?] If it's running rich then it's either a crap chip or a duff sensor. Do a basic tune up yourself, or print the instructions and take it to a friendly garage if you don't have the know-how / tools. Then it's a process of elimination to solve. Was the injector wiring replaced/repaired when the engine was rebuilt?
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Sounds like the new map is duff. Get a standard ecu and stick it back on and see if it behaves itself
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Ah, nice looking motor, I wanted to look at that one, but it was down Cornwall way and I am near Leeds so deemed it a bit far.. Enjoy :)
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Just read your build thread mate, great job, wish this wasn't so far away .. and I had 3K spare! GLWS
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Drivers door electric window switch surround?
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I am in need of a new bonnet release cable if you (or anyone) has one. Even just the piece that goes between the two release catches that the wire goes through would be a good start...
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Cheers mate, but I already have a Wagner cooler and all the pipework etc. Did a bit more this weekend, decided I needed to drain the PAS fluid and get the front panel off for a clean up and to give better access to the block. Glad I did now as the fluid was pretty black! Am I right in thinking that the fluid I need to put back is the green stuff -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302024960542?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT More bits stripped off: Rusty front panel, but luckily doesn't seem to be rusted through anywhere: Cleaned all the crap off the front of the block, not going to paint it or anything, just want it clean: Inlet etc off, just the rocker cover to whip off and paint then I can start actually putting bits back on :) Quite a bad leak from the rocker gasket down the back of the engine.. One job that was very satisfying was cleaning up the loom. I've only done it from the bulkhead, but the rest isn't too bad. Whipped off all the old tape (why do people put electrical tape on looms!?), then cleaned all the glue off, did a couple of repairs and taped it roughly into position, just need to do final wrap after connecting it all up when it's back together. Ordered a new water/oil cooler, just hunting down the gaskets I need and will start cleaning bits up this evening. Haven't split the charger yet ... fearing the worst :(