g0ldf1ng3r

if southie is not responding & cant be contacted then someone could try contacting the supplier themselves & see if they can run the group buy southie did put the supplier link in the 1st post, http://www.classic9leathershop.com/bonnet-liners-for-volkswagen/ & they still have the liners advertised i would imagine the company may be happy to let a new person run a group buy as the probably want to sell more liners & it would be easy to make a list for a 2nd run you may have an issue with companies posting the 3M spray adhesive though as i know they they dont like posting such items any longer good luck all

f**ing scum of the earth! Dont f*ck with another mans vehicle i work & live in the surrounding 15 mile radius of birmingham - if i see it i will try & get some info & post

if it is not the immobiliser collar / chip in key issue (as you havent changed your barrel) it could be that the collar has somehow stopped talking to the immobiliser the issue would be the same - car starts ok but then cuts out after few seconds IIRC someone here recently had an issue where the wire which goes from the immob collar to the fuse board had a break in it - that thread might help you also

Mr_Rossy that would be very kind of you!! I would like a pair please :) Thanks muchly Edit - could i also have a 2nd pair for the gf's storm, thanks

I brought my KW's direct from KW & they matched the best price i could find online

hi, what year is the motor? in your post are you referring to the ignition switch or barrel? on late models the key has a chip in it which is read by a collar around the ignition which feeds back to the immobiliser, if the chip doesnt match the collar then it will cause the car to start ok but then the engine will cut out within a short time. i had the above issue when i changed by ignition barrel & in the end i had the collar recoded to new key in hindsight i think it is possible to split the black plastic on the keys in half & swap the chip over ;)

have you tried dropping Southie a PM? he was the person who started this thread

Welcome :) Glad you have finally made the leap to a VR - hope your enjoying it!? Have you any pics to post, its always nice to see new members motors. If you check out the 2nd page of my member thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=44751&page=2&highlight=g0ldf1ng3r it has pics of when i had fitted & adjusted my KW V1 coilovers. It is on the standard 15" speedlines & I went for a '2 finger' gap between the top of the tire & the wheel arch all round. I find this height on these coilovers gives me a great balance between excellent handling & stability whilst giving the suspension enough room to travel so as not to feel too crashy. Personally, i found that any crashy or harshness was vastly reduced once i had also renewed my front wishbone & rear beam bushes (as well as the rest of the running gear) Everything then feels nicely cushioned but when pushing it round corners it just grips & grips :D

good advice supercharged! vince at stealth said he took advantage of the box being off & replaced a few other parts as he had them on the but i cant recall exactly what he said they were

great find!!

Ive recently fitted the Infinity Kappa 52.9i 5.25" in my doors, to match up with the 693.9i 6*9's in the rear, & am happy to say they are awesome!! & i found them drastically reduced to about £60!! Unlike many coax speakers the infinity kappa's come with their own in line crossovers ;)

Thanks Rob I will probably stick to the ring xenon's as i find the light output is excellent in both strength & clarity

are you referring to the night breakers rob?

Morning Rog H4 is the correct fitment. Whats the review on the night breakers? I use ring xenon ultima but need to replace as one side has popped & am always interested thoughts on alternatives Thanks

Brilliant! This has started my friday with a smile :D

Fecking awesome Mr_Rossy!!!! The low burble you get between 2000 & 3000 revs when you give a little press on the fast pedal sounds like a V8 burble........on m'way cruising at 70mph ish it is quiet as a mouse.......from low revs to redline the sound changes & builds from the low rumble i mentioned to a full on roar that overpowers even a moderately high volume on the stereo The main issue is the noise is so god damn addictive lol

Its not just on long journeys either :) I have a 12 mile each way journey to work & is a mixture of dual carriageways, 40mph & 30mph country roads & i normally see around the 32-33mpg mark on the dash when nearly home :D I find a good thing about the VR is there is so much low down torque you barely need to press the accelerator to build up speed to the appropriate road conditions My valver last week produced a dash reading of 67 IIRC over what cant have been more than 20 odd miles......not so sure thats correct tho lol I should probably mention that the 32-33mpg is with the 263 cams, BMC & remap carried out ;)

gearbox off + new clutch kit + labour of chosen establishment I took the opportunity to renew the gearbox mounts whilst the box was off too ;) my main point if you order a valeo clutch would be to check the release bearing is genuine valeo manufactured one & not from one of their subsidiaries [as per my previous post]

Thanks Mic, much appreciated - funnily enough that is the exact place i have been salivating over them & yes that painful price is the one i thought it would be

Mmmmm Mic those AP brakes are droolsome!!!!!! want want want lol can i ask where you sourced them? was it direct from AP or via a reseller? & what specs are they? thanks :D

I had a very annoying chirping noise after the work at stealth, which included new valeo clutch & release bearing (vince also fitted new clutch arm & a couple of other things whilst he was in there) vince replaced the new clutch with another & the chirping remained. vince logged a claim with valeo but to stop me having to wait for them to process it he then tried a new valeo clutch plate but with an LUK release bearing - chirping remained grrrr! vince wasnt totally convinced it was the release bearing & thus he checked my master & slave clutch cylinders - both tested ok but he made a small adjustment to reduce the travel of the clutch pedal by about 10mm (as if you dip the clutch a small amount the chirping stopped) but this too ended up with a still chirping clutch......very annoying finally after several months of vince chasing valeo he ended up getting a valeo rep in as they were rejecting the claim & vince proved the point to him - valeo in the end agreed the release bearing was at fault & issued him with a 'revised' bearing interestingly vince found that although the 1st clutch was a valeo boxed product upon inspection the release bearing itself was not valeo but one of their subsidiaries. once valeo had issued vince with the revised bearing direct from themselves it was fitted & guess what....no chirping :D good luck with yours - i hope the info helps

Definitely worth checking the connector onto the sensor and also the wire for any breaks etc as if the voltage along the wire is effected it will throw out the dash readings Im not sure what laser tool vince used to check the temp at the sensor but it would be a sanity check to confirm what the actual temp is (rather than rely on the dash reading)

hi m8 a little more detail would help here......what kind of temps are you seeing & how does this compare to after the recent parts you have fitted/removed my spurious oil temp readings on the dash was found to be due to corrosion on the connector which plugged into the new oil temp sensor - i had a reading of 150 at one point & went into panic mode lol the new oil temp sensor was fitted during work at stealth & they put a fresh connector on there & normal oil temp activity was resumed oddly though i had asked them to check if there was any difference between the temp at the oil sensor & the reading on the dash & their laser tool showed that the dash reading was 6 degrees higher than at the sensor itself Also regarding oil pumps, yes they can cause issues - if you can then check your oil pressure when the engine is cold, IIRC it should be at around 1 to 1.5 bar Again when my VR was at stealth it was found that my sump oil pump was not well & it was resulting in way too high a pressure - about 9 bar on the pic vince sent me - & had caused it to force a leak out of the new head gasket

Thanks VR6 South - ive found the guide :D hofmiester and anyone else, its here http://www.tigerstyle.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13624

Thank you thats great info & what i was hoping for :) I have found a few refurb guides online but they are all for the full 3 piece splits (still good info though) - i will have a search for the polo forum one you mention