g0ldf1ng3r

unfortunately paint shops can be a PIA - especially accident repair ones - they make a job look good when it is first done but they cut corners & the finish doesnt last i paid quite a for notes for work on the VR not long after getting it & 18 months later the bonnet was a night sky of micro blisters this time i am hunting for a proper restoration body shop & also one that guarantee's their work if possible

sorry no idea on the fans but i would try replacing the temp sensors. i have a VR & 1.8 16v so unsure of the 2.0 MFA hidden menu is: turn the key on-off-on while holding the MFA button, but then i am unsure of the order of output readings as you cycle the MFA

MFA MPG explanation i have just found: It measures engine vacuum (or boost in certain clusters from cars with boost engines), compares the vacuum readings to a table to determine engine load, and then calculates that with road speed to get MPG. If you have a non-stock car (something that breathes better, or is boosted and the MFA doesn't sense boost), it'll read higher since it thinks the engine isn't working as hard as it should to go as fast as you are going. There is a diagnostics menu in the MFA (turn the key on-off-on while holding the MFA button, starting the car is optional), it'll show you the raw signal from the speed sensor (1 number is added for every 1/4 turn of the wheels, and it uses that distance measurement plus time to calculate speed). There is anther setting in diagnostic mode to show instant mpg (so if you floor it, it'll go low, if you coast in gear it'll be 99.9, or close as can be to infinity). And there is yet another setting in diag mode to get a raw reading from the vacuum sensor (it displays a coded number that directly relates to a specific in/hg or bar reading (so you can use it like a real vacuum gauge). Also, each MFA cluster is coded to the engine it came with (16v, Digi 8v, CIS 8v, etc) for the load table. If you have the wrong cluster in the wrong car it'll be off too. G60 Corrados (and Mk2s in Europe) had a vacuum sensor that also senses boost and displayed proper MPG. if you boost a non-boost-sensitive cluster, it'll just read no load on the vacuum scale, so that'll drive the average up too. This is why if the vacuum sensor is broken or not connected (no load), it shows 99.9mpg, and if the speed sensor is broken or not connected it'll show ---mpg (you're not moving). My engine is basically a stock 2.0 16v (chip and exhaust, but those shouldn't affect the load readings as the engine breathes the same) and my MFA is consistently 2mpg higher than actual.

nice lambretta! a colleague at work would love that - she has 32 scooters with her husband lol

nice pics - glad the day went well, congrats to both

absolutely brilliant info, very much appreciated thanks John :) i am considering about the same as what you have described & will add the place to the short list i have pm'd my email address if you wouldnt mind sending me a couple of sample pics :)

sweet! thanks for that easypops - bfstachan sent me some as a thank you for helping him a while ago id best get that dash out

i need to do this on the valver before winter but unfortunately need to pull the dash out again to do so did you glue the felt on easypops?

bit harsh but maybe worried of transit damge

i used interparcel.com to collect a set of speedlines from somerset & ship to midlands - less than £40 IIRC

such a pity it is so far away :( ive always been fast in a go kart too

great info - could you pls expand a little. eg full or partial respray? windows out or not? any rust repair? & cost if you dont mind divulging (or ball park) oh & time taken? thanks

sad news :( check the wanted section m8 for those who have asked for VR's

i always use interparcel.com in recent times

thanks for the info post would this be what i would need to fit VR coilovers to my early valver?

good info, thank you :)

hmm yes it's a bit corrosive that tack PMSL

hmmm got me thinking this has how about plasti dipping the rear badges with a chrome film no need for awkward cutting daveproyoyoyo (whoa thats a tough used name to type lol) - out of curiosity what was the cost of the vinyl wrap?

what a good idea!!

trickle charge wont help if it is that dead Gus - you would need a proper charging unit i would have thought as for stater motor - open bonnet, stand in centre, look down between the fans & the inlet manifold, to the right hand side you will see the thermostat housing (where all your hoses go in & out), the SM is a 6 inch ish long cylinder just below & towards the front of the car a long crowbar (or similar) & a hammer will be needed FYI when mine weNt in the VR a tap worked once but then i had to bump start it actually - if your alternator is ok you could bump start it & then go for a long drive to get charge back into the battery - obviously try not to use many electrics during the drive that would at least allow you to rule either the battery or SM out

likely to be a rayne automotive at that price mixed opinions on here about them as quite a few reported problems & they are only 2 relay version - normally that implies 1 relay for sidelights/dipped beam & 1 for main beam, which in turn means nothing other than main beam if the side/dipped beam relay fails :( unless you keep a spare in the glove box ;)

how did you get on with the battery?

that would really depend on how much you want rebuilt have a read of my build thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?44751-g0ldf1ng3r-s-VR6-amp-1-8-16V/page2 for what i had done & then hopefully a forum member can expand on the bottom end side of things too vince is always silly busy but best thing will definitely be a good chat with him about your issues & potential solutions

true Dox & Vince also makes sure the customer is happy i had quite a torrid time when my VR went there due to the poor workmanship of a young lad he had there - who then wasnt there on my final collection day if it wasnt for Vince's tenacity to want happy customers my experience would have been very different. Vince put every effort into making sure the end result was 100% right - even sending my hand polished inlet manifold to a local bodyshop as it had been scratched & installing the lower door trim plastic out of his own rado cause mine had been scratched as well

he doesnt tend to be on the forum very much stu try sending him a PM & if that doesnt work i can drop him a message to his hotmail for you