Jim

They're who I use too, and similarly ludicrous price on my VR6 too. I don't understand how they're so much cheaper than so many other specialist insurers on Corrado's. They're also good to deal with apparently in the event of an accident - mate of mine insures his Scirocco MK2 with them, and they were very good when it got broken into a couple of years ago.

Do you have a wife / partner still in employment? Insure it under her name and add yourself as a named driver?

I tend to muddle along with what tools I have - never occurred to just buy an extension and go in from above but that does sound a bit more sensible :)

Not sure on the size and access is a pig unfortunately :( Will fire up the parts catalogue again in a bit and see if it states the size of the bolt head. I found reaching down under the inlet manifold from the air box side yielded successful results without the need to remove any parts.

Haha :) I am only any good for Corrado parts though.. Might not be much good sorting parts for an EOS or a Passat :)

May as well just replace them both as they're not expensive (ETKA saying about a tenner each). Part numbers are: 028 919 081D - low pressure switch (blue) 068 919 081 - high pressure switch (black) ETKA also shows a replacement seal / washer for each - part number N 013 811 5. According to the diagram the high pressure switch is on the left as you look at the engine / oil cooler housing from the front, and low pressure on the right.

Car looked terrific today Darren :)

Post went through fine on the Wanted forum. Welcome aboard, and good luck with your quest to get this Corrado back on the road - glad to hear of another one being saved rather than scrapped :)

Often wondered what happened to this car! Good to see it back again. Was it sat outside the whole time, or was it tucked away in a garage? Looks in remarkably good shape either way given how it's not been touched for years and years!

Yesterday, about 6.15pm, I almost crashed my car when I spotted an L reg flash red VR6 come past me just near the arches in Spon End. Looked totally original, being driven by an older chap with white hair. Never see Corrado's around these parts any more!

This sounds like the foundations of a great plan :)

If I had my car back from the garage I'd happily let you pull bits off mine, seeing as you don't live a million miles away.

Take it with you :) Super scene points for having one of the rarest VW's in Australia. Think there's literally single digit numbers of them out there! A member on here did it quite a few years ago... there is a couple of forum members on here, out there :)

My trick for this (and it's convoluted) but it's worked as mine doesn't release on the passenger side properly at the moment.. Open drivers door. Hook the buckle for the seatbelt on the driver side over the bonnet release catch and pull it forward. Pull the top part of the seatbelt up so it's out and above the door / roof line - it will just about reach. Keep it pulled tight so that the bonnet release lever is pulled all the way back, then slam / shut the door trapping the seatbelt this way. Then you should be able to walk round and unlatch the bonnet... push down on the side that won't open and it should spring up and you should be able to open it.

Precisely what upsets me about the whole situation. No grievence with ChrisL who acquired it after it left Chris Gaskell's estate - fully understand his reasons for selling up, but it's changed hands 3 times since he sold it now mere months ago, each time clearly people driven by nothing more than greed / profit. It's infuriating.

I need to start keeping a closer eye out on these sale threads. Missed loads of things I would have picked up in recent days! :(

I would imagine that most specialists would strongly advise against taking the engine out to 3 litre and then turbo charging it, but worth consulting with someone like Stealth Racing for their opinion. Given the sort of power you'll yield from going turbo anyway, over-boring that extra amount won't add a lot in the grand scheme of things but will surely only cause more complications regarding keeping temperatures under control, and most likely accelerated bore wear on the known weak cylinders 1 & 6. You'd surely be best off just sourcing a good, clean 2.8 block (of which there are plenty) and spending the money on just rebuilding and strenghthening that rather than spending the money on the overboring, and oversized pistons, etc. Taking the 3 litre route just doesn't seem logical, for the sort of setup you're pursuing.

Drat. Was going to bag that for retrimming :)

You gotta be prepared to travel for these cars unfortunately!

Wiki guide is a winner. It's a doddle of a job.

Awesome diagnostic information and overall setup of the cooling system on the VR is available here: https://sites.google.com/site/stoyneff/miscellaneous/the-vr6-cooling-system I'd certainly start by double checking the fan power connector is in place correctly (I've known them to break / drop off) then test bridging the temperature connector pins and seeing if the fan comes on. That ensures the fan itself is working, and that the problem may lay upstream - such as the yellow temperature connector, or the rad fan switch itself.

Yikes! That engine bay isn't pretty! The fuel lines, etc are the most corroded I think I've ever seen, but hopefully it is all just surface corrosion and you can get it running easily enough.

That is ****ing laughable. Not because I don't think it's one of the best Corrado's in the country, but because of the just shameless attempts to profiteer off backs and hard work of other people with **** all effort. It sickens me to my stomach. I am on the verge of emailing them abuse.

I'll drop him an email and point him at this thread :)

Good point - sorry! :) If the mileage is real, apparently it's only done 7,000 miles in the last 10/11 years!