VW_OwneR_85

yea they do

the easiest solution i can think is to trace back what you have done , im assuming you have cut and reconnected wires to make them all fit better?

if you want the best looking red rears then either remove your lights or buy a 2nd hand set and take them to your nearest bodyshop and have them spray them with a candy red {translucent} basecoat then clearcoat, will look something like this and because there done properly you should have no problems with selling them on if needed

take a look here first ,http://wiki.the-corrado.net/changing_heater_scuttle_foliage_cover_seal.html http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161329044751

^agree about colour coded bits its too much, with the lights I think it would look a little like the painter couldn't be bothered to mask them up properly as that part of doing all reds is a PITA..

take it to a bodyshop is your best option, they need sanding out, back to fresh metal and repainting, don't leave it too late as the rust will only get worse and harder to treat and more likely of it returning through your new paint job a year or two down the road, in the mean time you could try to remove rust in the chips and fill the chips in with touch up paint, it will only slow the rusting down so its not a permanent fix, if you didn't care about how your car looks then you could sand them out yourself , etch prime bare metal then slap on some paint that's water proof to stop corrosion, but doing this will only make prep time longer for a bodyshop to sort out in the future..

look like lenso bsx iv had some before , not sure on the centers

had an audi 1.8t turbo with a similar problem , oil light would come on randomly when driving, the problem was oil pick up gauze was blocked,

if you didn't already know your need one of these tools to pull the leads out and re seat them http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-VW-Golf-VR6-Audi-VAG-Spark-Plug-HT-Lead-Clip-Remover-Removal-Tool-VS5293-/260410340724?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3ca1aa7574

it will be easier to get another AUE , your need the BDE engine harness + ecu and swap over, not sure but you might be able to copy your aue harness in terms of being modified to fit rado , as the differences between them are more then likely at the ecu rather then fusebox side,im sure someone will confirm though

don't take much notice of the advert being 20v turbo, It would make more sense being listed as "mk4 engine loom conversion" as the work involved wiring wise is pretty much the same thing, and amongst the engine codes he listed he has "BDE" and that's one of the 24v 2.8's , your just have to message them on ebay and tell them your engine code and what your doing but they seem like a good place to start and trouble shooting later on...

Agree with Kip ^ , that's if you want to stick with oem management, I didn't have the confidence to modify my wiring loom myself, instead I waited months and then some for someone else to do it for me, only for me to basically be thrown in the deep end and have to learn about it to install it and get it working and then find out why it wont start, If I was doing it all again from scratch I would lay both engine wiring harness's out in front of me with all plugs labelled up and go for it, that way I know whats what and whats been done and what hasn't been done, I got united motorsports to do my ecu work and they were great! , if you ebay search vw engine conversion theres guys on there offering wiring conversion looms and ecu work for this , cant vouch for there work but there service is there... good luck looks like a good place to start , price includes immo removal http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-20Valve-Turbo-OEM-Engine-loom-conversion-AUQ-AUM-AGU-AYP-BAM-BDE-SEAT-VAG-/161422816200?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item25958cb3c8

liking the filler cap! iv thought about doing it myself , would of gotten the cap and surround anodised black to suit ;)

think that's the only problem with this thread , its slowly gotten info from across all 24v engines rather then just a certain 3.2 it also includes info of 2.8 24v's aswell even though though its almost the same install theres allways going to be things which are needed and are not!.Check out how I installed my pedal if you need idea's,easy to do and you don't have to remove the pedal box or anything like that , but you will need to be able to weld...

again from a vr6 aspect that small pipe on top of the header tank does have a nice steady flow of coolant returning back to the tank on idle, that would indicate the water pump is working well, try raising the revs via the throttle body to see if any coolant starts flowing back to the tank at a decent rate, faster the revs the better the flow should be, assuming this smaller pipe does the same function as vr6 one, which I would of thought it would be

water pump? I know some of the old vr6 ones have had plastic fins/impellars which can become brittle and break off.. not sure with a g60 though,

why wouldn't you use the 24v wiring and ecu? just scared of the wiring aspect?

some bodyshops can scan your vehicles paint and then mix that up in aerosol for you...

when I said k&n style filter I didn't mean to replace your current panel filter with a k&n panel filter as that I would of thought wouldn't make any difference, I should of said cone filter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-UNIVERSAL-INDUCTION-AIR-FILTER-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-VR6-/390488499892?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5aeaeda6b4 ebay search vr6 cone filter , you can pick them up for as little as a tenner , just to try them out before commiting to a better quality one, if I remember rightly even with a cone filter it still doesn't give the VR purr under light throttle , its only when you hoof it, so changing to a cone would probably just enhance the sound your already getting, idd say if your not happy with that then look more towards the exhaust side,

completely agree, looks awesome so far dude ;)

its worth selling it off cheap 80 -£100? ,im guessing it would be a good base for someone wanting to try reupholstery or getting it done without having to remove there stuff,

IMO if you haven't cut/damaged the rubber finishing seal around the perimeter then it will be fine to bond back in with windscreen adhesive as that's what actually makes it weather proof ,

if you don't get results with new leads , look at the maf sensor next, swapping it over with a friends will be the quickest way to check it...

Iv owned a mk3 vr6 and it felt just as quick as the corrado tbh.. Lol similar story actually , my friend whos into mk1 caddys recently pulled his motor out to find out that its actually got a 1.8 and the whole time hes owned it {more then 8 years} hes been buying parts for a 1.6 { carbs , spark plugs, etc } as that's what it was supposed to be..

Yes please!!!