ABV-VR6

Oh really? That could be an interesting setup for sure!

Fantastic! Thanks for your help on this, much appreciated mate!

Then if it's what it is and I think you're right about this, as per another comment on this tread, maybe upgrading to the mk4 refurbish kit would be a good idea to eliminate the problem of the pistons rusting out... Thanks for the link as well!

Yes definitely a good idea! Thanks for helping me out again!

Yes that's what I read too, Corrado have 22mm and DE have 25mm. Plus it's slightly bigger as well by like a centimeter. Technically the piston is larger as well but I can't confirm that yet as they are still on the car. Cheers!

Ok I just measured everything. The DE disc is 288mm diameter, 25mm wide and the piston itself is 54mm just like it's written on the calipers. Now looking at my Corrado front calipers, they're definitely smaller looking and there's no 54 written on them and I have an euro ABV Corrado as well.

I just measured the rotors the Passat I dismantled and they are like 288mm

Alright I'm back! What a surprise reading all the posts this morning! You guys are fantastic helps, really appreciate all of it, thanks! Like it was mentioned, It's confusing and kind of hard to find just the piston itself. I do think 731 and 732 are just to show left and right like Keyo was saying. I think it was smart to do the research from the caliper part number, I'll keep that in mind for next time... Dox was saying stock are 54 as well but on the thread I've read it's saying the piston is larger on the DE calipers? Here's a copy of the information discussed in the thread I've read: Option 3 is the DE brake Option 1: Pad, Rotor, Braided lines, new OE fluid Pluses: -Easiest, possibly most cost effective setup. -You do not need to purchase new calipers. -Unless you have concerns about cooking your brakes (extensive track work), plain rotors are plenty. -Slotted rotors are OK. Drilled rotors are touch-and-go. Ensure that the drilled rotor you are buying is drilled during the casting process, not after, which increases the likelihood of cracking. In most cases, plain rotors are plenty for a street car. -Braided steel lines are a must to increase pedal feel and braking effectiveness. Rubber lines expand and contract with the increase in fluid pressure, meaning not all of your pedal work is transferred to the caliper. -You'll be hard pressed to cook OE fluid in anything but the most extreme conditions. Use it and never have to worry about the chemical compounds within your fluid. Minuses: -There aren't any. Option 2: Girling G60 brake calipers from an Audi 90 Pluses: -A simple cost effective upgrade. -The calipers are cheap from a pick-n-pull yard and sometimes you can even get them free. Add a couple shims, the appropriate pads and it is a bolt-on affair. -Calipers are 2-piston items and as such have better clamping force than stock single-piston calipers. Minuses: -They are heavy. Heavier than stock. -You get an increase in clamping force at the expense of increased weight. -Some Wheels will not clear calipers (et dependent) Detailed link to part numbers: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...liper-swap.htm Option 3: 11.3”/Driver's Edition upgrade – found on all VR6-equipped VWs from 1996 to 1999.5 Pluses: -The caliper features a larger piston and a larger pad. -Rotors are not only larger in diameter (0.3”), but also 3mm thicker. -Secure an entire spindle from a any VR6-equipped VW from the above years and you have everything you need to bolt it on. -Larger and thicker rotor means increased thermal capacity. -Larger piston means greater clamping force. Larger pad means greater swept area. -Increased lever arm (distance from hub to caliper) means a theoretical increase braking feel and less work to accomplish same braking performance – less pedal pressure and less fluid transfer. -This setup puts you only a caliper carrier/spacers and larger rotor away from Option 4 (below). Minuses: -The entire setup will weigh more than stock, increases your unsprung weight which detracts from handling. On the flip side, this is an OE upgrade, so all weight increases are within OE tolerances. -Requires new front brake lines Option 4: 12.3”/1st gen Audi TT/GTI 20th Anniversary/1.8T GLI/GTI 337 upgrade Pluses: -Same calipers & pads as Option 3 – simple, straight forward upgrade from 11.3”. -Substantially larger 12.3” rotor. Same thickness as 11.3” upgrade, but now 1.3” larger in diameter. -Increased lever arm (distance from hub to caliper) means a theoretical increase braking feel and less work to accomplish same braking performance – less pedal pressure and less fluid transfer. -Larger rotor means increased thermal capacity, making this setup very competitive in virtually any track application with the right pads. -To cut down on weight, ECS sells a 2-piece replica rotor with aluminum hats. Minuses: -16” wheels are required. -Standard replacement rotors weigh a lot more than stock or 11.3” items. -Requires 1st Gen Audi TT carriers & washers -ECS 2-piece rotors are not cheap at $600/pair. Option 5: Mk4 R32 brake upgrade. Pluses: -One of the best factory braking set-ups ever produced by VW, this side of multi-piston/ceramic. -Large two-piston calipers mean increased clamping force & pad swept area -13.1” rotors mean increased lever arm -ECS Tuning sells 2-piece variations on rotors Minuses: -Very heavy, heavier than any other factory component upgrade -Requires 17” wheels. Some will not clear depending on spoke design. -Requires caliper carrier spacer -Requires new brake lines Option 6: Wilwood Dynalite 11” kit Pluses: -Light, aluminum 4-piston calipers. -Uses factory 11” rotors. Substantial increase in clamping force from four pistons. With proper pads, higher resistance to fade versus any other 11” option. Minuses: -Wilwood supplied Q-pads require a lot of heat to get up to operating temperature. -Calipers are substantially wider than stock – will clear 15” wheels radially, but may require 5mm spacer depending on spoke design. -Caliper pistons do not have dust boots – caliper rebuild is required every 10k to 15k miles or seasonally. -Wilwood BP20 pads are ideal for autocross and street driving, but will reduced rotor life to 10k miles. -Wilwood is an American company, using SAE fittings – adapters are required to connect Wilwood braided lines to factory hardline, creating point of possible fatigue if not installed correctly. Some suppliers will NOT sell you carrier adaptors separately from calipers. Option 6: Wilwood Dynalite 12.19”/13” kits Pluses: -Increased lever arm, increased thermal capacity, rotors are either two-piece or one-piece depending on supplier. -Wilwood retailers/suppliers can get you thicker rotors and associated calipers, further increasing your thermal capacity. Minuses: -Same as Option 5. -12.19” should fit most 16” wheels, 13” kit requires 17” wheels. Pay attention to spoke design as calipers are wider/thicker than stock, 5mm spacers may be needed. -Rotors need to sourced from a Wilwood supplier/retailer. Sizing and thickness is proprietary to Wilwood. Rotor rings (for two-piece applications) are more expensive, as are one-piece rotors. Option 7: ECS Tuning/Porsche Boxster Calipers Pluses: -Larger, 4-piston Porsche Boxster Brembo Calipers. -Bolts on to 12.3” Audi TT rotors -Larger pistons, larger pads means increased clamping force and swept area. -Brembo calipers are metric – line connections are straight forward. -Calipers say “Porsche” on them. -Should work with most 16” wheels. Minuses: -Larger rotors means increased weight. -Calipers weigh more than most factory upgrades. -Pricey when new. -Substantially larger caliper means greater portion of fluid is being used; factory 22mm master cylinder may not be able to handle increased fluid transfer. -May require 17” wheels or larger spacers on 16” wheels. -They say “Porsche” on them. Option 8: Brembo Gran Turismo kit Pluses: -Made by one of the most respected manufacturers in the braking industry -Proper fit is virtually guranteed -Sold through TireRack, another well-respected company -Multiple caliper color choices -They say “Brembo” on them Minuses: -Pricey -Possible brake master cylinder fatigue -Requires 17” wheels -Limited supply Option 9: Custom Wilwood/StopTec kits Pluses: -Several suppliers available -Custom built to fit your car -Full catalog of Wilwood calipers and rotors -Some suppliers will do the necessary math to ensure you are not taxing the brake master cylinder Minuses: -Pricey -Can take months to build proper kit -Not all suppliers execute your order to the same standard

Yes mate, I totally agree with you there. Ebay is not reliable, etka don't show just the pistons, maybe they were just ment to be fully refurbished... I was thinking... Do you think mine are silver because they were on a passat but the MK3 GTI got the red version because of the GTI trend to be red? At this point int I'm starting to think that maybe I should just get new calipers and call it a day if it's that hard to find parts. I have the knuckles so the hardest to get I have already... Thanks a lot your time to both of you!

All I can see on the calipers is 731 on one and 732 on the other one. Both ATE 54 DE VW. both have stamped 5345 as well on the calipers. On the knuckles one has DE GER 255 and the other one is DE CDP 256

I'll go check right now to see what I have, give me 10 minutes! Cheers

I read a post on vortex about all the front brake upgrades for the Corrado long time ago. It was written that any passat B4 VR6 were equipped with DE brake which was 11.3 instead of the 11 the Corrado came with. The difference in disc size is not much, the big difference was in the size of the piston and the DE were a good cost effective oem upgrade. All that is needed was calipers, carriers and knuckles. Bolt straight on. Am I wrong? What's starting to make me doubting myself now is they are DE brake as per the stamp on them but they are not red? Too early late 1996? Discs are 11. 3 tough. Anyways, thank you so much for the eBay link, looks like it is what I need. But I'll be sure I have the right thing first before buying I guess!?

Yes it's the front! Discs are 11-3/8" so I guess 11.3 like they called them. Both calipers and knuckles have DE on them

Thanks guys for your help, always appreciated. I looked at Redd's website, they had nothing under Passat B3 or B4? They are from a Passat VR6 late 1996, it had the OBD2 system so probably the first run of them. Pistons are shot are per picture!

Hey, so I dismantled a set of DE brake on a Passat b4, it's a nice OEM upgrade. I'm working on those to get them ready for powder coating and now I was looking to get a refurbish kit for the front caliper. I can find the rubber seals no problem but I just can't find anywhere the piston for them? They are rusted pretty bad. Any idea where I could find these? Cheers!

Nice! Let us know how it goes! I feel like I've seen an old post on this forum explaining how to do the MK4 e-brake swap? But yeah, that plastic e-brake cover looks pretty cheap. Back in the days (about 16/20 years ago) I had created a genuine leather e-brake cover for Corrados that could be installed over the plastic cover. After a lot of tweaking and time I got it just right and started selling them on eBay. I sold over 500 of my kits world wide! I should check to see if I still have the pattern to make one for my car! Anyways, keep us posted!

OMG mate, these are so nice! Good for you! And that GTI 16V so nice in black, mine was white. It's always at that time, first day and someone obnoxious almost ruins the whole thing... You were lucky back then. I have to say that scares me too. I'm already stressing out about getting a rock in my windshield and the car won't be on the road for years lol. Can't find a windshield here anymore... I'll take non Corrado updates anytime! Cheers

Yes they are very expensive new but barely used on Yahoo Japan they are affordable! I've seen a nice set "9/10" a couple of months ago going for $800 Canadian, 520 British Pounds

Looking good and nice project as usual! I sure do like the Japan Racing wheels and the black Schrick that easypops posted gets my vote! If I may suggest another wheel option, I think you may like the BBS RG-F, model RG383. They're like the LM's but in one piece and 16" ET35 https://bbs-japan.co.jp/en/products/1241/ Cheers and keep up to good work!

I learn so much by reading you guys posts, thank you! I'll be checking my drains as well just for maintenance and I sure didn't know about the intermittent wipers either. I hope you get your leak sorted out! Share a picture once you get it re-sprayed too! Cheers

Oh man, I just read your last update. That kind of made me sad to see you were considering selling the car. Why?? You've done so much work and a huge investment to get it to this point. It's one of the nicest car out there and I though you were going to keep it forever! Anyways, good luck with your next steps. Cheers

Okay so a picture is worth a thousand words they say... That's a staggered setup 16x9 ET21 rear and 16x7.5 ET10, this to me looks perfect: https://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?7470505-Schmidt-modern-line-wheels-5x100-16x9-et-21-and-16x7-5-et-10-with-205-40-16-tires-all-around-2900-obo Then there's a square setup all 16x9 ET25 front and ET15 rear just like shiftkid's setup and that looks perfect too. Although I'm kind of skeptical with a 9" rim in the front but it seems to work: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6997330-FS-Highly-Modified-Multiple-Award-Winning-1992-VW-Corrado-SLC-Turbo&highlight=French+European+SLC And then there's a discussion about mounting a 205 tyre on a 9" rim. And the picture that shows it, the stretch on the tyre is WAY to much for my liking. https://rennlist.com/forums/wheel-and-tire-forum/291556-205-wide-tire-on-a-9-rim.html This is what I don't understand. Why does the tyres on the first 2 links mounted on a 9" wheels looks fine but on the third link it's way to much stretch? Just the tyre structure? Even the guy a Schmidt told me not to install a 205 on their 9" wheel, he said minimum 215 and even so it will be very stretched. Also wondering how much work is involved on the fenders to make it happen? That's why I'm confused, there's so much mixed reviews/thinking on this... If the wheels were cheap to buy I guess I would not care as much but at the price they are I can't afford to mess this up...

One more thing, so I did found someone who has your setup, 9" front and rear, same ET and this is just what I'm looking for. He has the schmidt modern line like I want too. What I find weird is 9" seems way to wide, with that calculator, it's over 2" pass the fenders. But looking at the pictures, it doesn't. And also a 205 tyre on a 9" seems so stretched but on is pictures, it doesn't look too crazy. Even the schmidt guy told me 205 was not wide enough for a 9". So with your setup, did you do lots of work on your fenders to make it happen?