ABV-VR6

Here's the difference side by side of the two models. The "c" being the longer one and the one installed on my car. I ordered the "b" in the end since apparently they're the right ones. Maybe that was the reason why the PO had installed the collar to make it tighter? Anyways, just thought I would put it out there for future reference, cheers!

Got my parts back from powder coating and I'm super happy with the result! I didn't wanted anything too glossy, more like satin or the OEM finish. I do believe that all those days I spent sanding, wire wheeling, filing those parts made a hell of a difference, the finish is so smooth they're seriously better than new. I'm missing a few parts still (ordered but shipping is so slow) I'll slowly put it back together and I can't wait! Now I'm getting excited! Oh, and for all those bolts that are NLA, I treated them with a black oxide solution and they came back the way they were originally... See the before and after picture. I hope all is well with you mates! Cheers

Well the seller just got back to me, 5 days later... 40 GBP to ship here, I think I'll make due with my micky mouse setup!

Maybe I read this wrong but you just want to be sure that it works before installing it mate? If it was me, I would just wire it straight to the battery to confirm the motor spins. The other speeds settings are sensor or fuse related and not a fan issue. If it doesn't work on stage 2 or 3, that as nothing to do with the fan itself and a different trouble shooting is required. Hopefully that helps, if not I'm sorry! Cheers

I agree with you, that may just be it. Combine the super slow world wide shipping issue caused by covid, add the Christmas online shopping and top that up with brexit and it's giving you a good way to get bad reviews on your eBay account... Well at least Bruno had a way to get around it and I'm curious to hear the comments on the tool.

Oh Hasan could you? That would be amazing!

Yes mate, I guess it's free to ask! I'll message him and see. Thing is though, shipping takes likes 6 to 8 weeks right now! Cheers

Same for me, I'm getting pretty much everything under the car powder coated and where the bushings or bolts go, it's been blanked off so should be the same as before. That tool is nice, don't know the answer to your question though!

One last thing I'll be putting the bushings in the freezer for a couple of days before doing it, can't hurt!

Only picture I have (to show my friend) I'll try something like this with tape around to hold... So it's a bearing ring from my bearing kit, 3 box on one side and a piece of metal to shim, fits perfect that way

My rear beam is at the powder coating shop right now so I haven't fitted the bushings yet. Here's my setup and what I'll be attempting : bought a 7/16" threaded rod, heavy washers, 2" long nuts. Shimming with some box set. I'll check if I have a picture. I think what you're doing, primer and epoxy paint is a very good alternative and solid option.

Well I would say it's a wise investment mate! And like Hasan said, it will provide some kind of dampening grom the road noise too. Back east with hatch winters and salted road, I used to do that to my cars too. Cheers!

Well, here's what I've done and it was simple and took less than 5 minutes per side. I drilled through the bushing 6 or 7 time with a 1/4" bit around the center sleeve. Then I used my reciprocating saw with a long demolition blade and "connected the dots" lol. Once the center removed, I used a metal blade on my recep saw to cut the outer metal ring, finished by hand to not damage the beam. I squeezed the outer ring with a vise, cold chisel and hammer a few time it fell off super easy. Yes you can burn it but what a stench and mess... This is a one time thing, while it's in your hands, powder coat or hammerite paint would be worth it... I would never install poly bushings for the reasons you mentioned. I ordered mine on ebay, I went with Lemforder but I'm sure Meyle or Febi would be good too. I would change that bolt and nut too... All available on ebay and I even saw kit (bushing + nut + bolt) , and while you wait to get them, get the rear beam powder coated 😉. Let me know if you more questions happy to help, cheers

Well I've spent quite some times under the car washing the undercarriage and this morning I removed the rest of the exhaust line (after the cat). Looking at the exhaust middle bracket, the one with the double arms, I noticed the P/O installed a metal collar on one side where the black rubber is (rubber still there BTW). So, I'm assuming the rubber may have stretched a bit too much and that was the solution at the time... I figured, well I'll just order two new ones and call it a day! The part number for those rubber bushings on the middle bracket is:1H0-253-147-C. And then I thought to myself, may as well changing all of them, the two rears ones are 1H0-253-147-B. I emailed my dealership to get those and the manager told me the 147-C has now been replaced by 147-B... After being told that I wanted to look at them again before ordering and the ones from the middle bracket look definitely longer than the two rear ones... Long story short: Are the 147-C a longer model than the 147-B and the dealer mislead me OR the 147-C I have right now are the original ones and they are so old they're sagging which makes them look longer compared to the rear ones? Anybody knows? Thanks in advance!

No mate haven't seen the thread?? I've been looking at "drivetrain" fir brake related stuff and didn't see anything new? And no, I meant the caps on the bolts that secures the wheels! Didn't you installed a black cap over them mate?

Wow you did that wiring like a pro! I wasn't aware of all those modifications required to make that intake work, quite a process. Interested to follow the next steps! I also just noticed those black caps over the lug nuts, really like that too! Cheers mate

Thanks to all of you, really appreciated it! Tonedef, that picture is great thank you. It's giving some direction to make something up. I don't have a welder or metal plate scraps but I'll start looking for something down that line. I too like seanl82 was thinking of bringing it to the garage ( would be one of the rare things I would get a garage to do for me as well ) but I live in a remote area and not sure they would have the proper equipment to do it... I have a few weeks to figure this out! Cheers!

Hi all, Well, since I removed the rear axle and stripped it ready for powder coating now I've been thinking about when it will be time to put it back together... The only thing that I see problematic is reinstalling those bushings... All you can read online is how much of a pain in the arse they are to install. And all I can find for the installation on youtube, they have special tools to make it happen. Is it possible to do it yourself with home tools, who's done it, tips? Any help would be appreciated! Cheers

This is the only part that shows rust on the car, I'm stripping it all out fir powder coating.

Well, I got it out thanks mates. I did has suggested, jack under the beam, a few 4x4 where the brakes are to minimize the drop. I attached the proportioning valve to the frame to make sure it was out of the way when the beam was going down. Only surprise is the rear shock bolt. The one by the exhaust, I could move the exhaust and get the bolt out but the one by the gas tank is a different story. So the other for the bolts order it's best to do the 4 at the front, one shock muffler side, then remaining 2 at the front (make sure the jack is touching with no pressure) then you can move the beam sideways to get the remaining gas tank side shock bolt. Cheers!

Thank you, makes me feel more confident to do it now. I improvise every steps so it's good to have my thoughts validated, thanks! I'll probably tackle this today! Cheers

I'm about to remove the rear axle (my first time) and was looking on the forum. These are good advise. I loosen all the bolts. The abs is disconnected. The e-brake cables are removed. The rear proportioning valve is not attached to the beam anymore. I think I'm ready to go. I was thinking of putting a bunch of 4x4 lumber under the beam for when it goes down. Should be heavy, all the rear brakes are still on... I thinking of removing 4 of the 6 bolts from the front brackets under the car. Then removing the bolt on each rear coilovers. Then the last 2 on the front bracket and it goes down. For you mates who has done it, does it sounds like a good plan? Or a different order for the bolts? Thanks for the help as usual, cheers

Thanks mate, really appreciate it! Cheers

I definitely would benefit greatly from a "how to" with pictures, I never did that and was going to improvise so that would be much appreciated! Cheers!

Already on!! Wow looks amazing and it's making me regret to get them in red lol. Those ebc pads are supposed to be really good too, I ended buying akebono pads for mine... Nice work!