ABV-VR6

It definitely seems really nicely/solidly made, you can tell on the pictures. Glad you got them in and it was easy to do for you. Must be relieved! When I totally understand and agree with your point (and I speak of experience) I got my unique idea stolen in the past and it really pissed me off. But in this case, I don't think the demand for a "copy" is to cheap out the inventor but more of an issue with availability. Seems like he's not willing to sell in the UK (for reasons we know) and maybe not everyone like you has access to an address in a different country. That said, offering to lend it resolve the issue and if I was in the UK, I would have just done that. Others may just want to own it too... And in my case, shipping alone to Canada was £40 plus taxes and duty and the part cost and that makes it cost too much unfortunately. Anyways, I don't think I will be doing that again anytime soon but if availability at a reasonable cost was offered, I would consider. Just though I would make the intentions clear! Cheers

This is the integration kit for the 02M 6 speed I was talking about : https://www.fablessmanufacturing.com/products/vr6-02m-complete-mount-kit-vw-mk2-corrado?_pos=2&_sid=c4e491e8d&_ss=r&variant=32690254872673 But it looks nothing like OEM, the 02M is heavy, the axles are like a $1000 for both I think... Not for me but I wouldn't mind what you have 😉. Cheers!

Thank you very much for the information Keyo, much appreciated. This is definitely a super nice piece, there must be only a few just like the VWMS intake? New old stock the chap had in his shop? Im assuming you will install a limited slip differential with it? You will be upgrading to a 02J shifter I'm assuming as well? I did and it's pretty straight forward " I think I made the list of parts needed on the forum". I don't have 6 speeds but I'm upgrading to a 3.94 ring and pinion, a 0.75 5th gear and a lsd. Here in Canada there's a company who make an integration kit to bolt a O2M 6 speed transmission but I'm not a huge fan of the extra weight, crazy expensive custom drive shafts etc... But what you have it's definitely the pinnacle and I didn't even know it existed! That would also be the only thing I would upgrade to "if I could". Sometimes I wish I lived in Europe! That's amazing you've found that! Cheers mate

This all looks fantastic Keyo! I can tell these parts look like some part of VW racing history and definitely looks stunning. But because I'm somewhat new to this would you mind educating me about it so I have a better grasp of what I am looking at? This is what I think it so far: this is an "add-on" that bolts to the transmission and allow you to install a 6th gear. Obviously Volkswagen Motor Sports. The first part you showed us is the new "box" for the shifter inside allowing for 6 gear shift. Is it beefier? On what is what used for? Tell me more please! Cheers

Thank you!! I'm super pleased with how it looks. It's getting addictive to install parts back on the car. My dream come through after all those years! Cressa: I did an ABS delete has I've read too many bad stories on the unit and didn't liked the clunky look in the engine bay. Plus I like basics, the less the better to me and frankly I never liked ABS, I guess I'm old lol

That would be really nice! If you make something, I'll buy one! It needs to be strong, I'm blown away that the 8mm thick piece of iron from an industrial "I" beam took a serious bend in the process! But I think the biggest flaws can't be fix and it's the size of the hole which do not allow bigger than a 7/16" threaded rod. I think a 1/2" rod would have made a big difference. I mean, the control arm bushing has a bigger hole than the rear bushing which made it a piece of cake to do! Cheers mate!

Thanks a lot! I'm glad it's behind me now. I'm sure I would feel more confident the second time now that I know what to expect. So far: hardest job = rear beam bushings, most nerve wrecking job = getting to the HVAC box fir the heater core 😉

Thanks! Happy I made it happen. All I had was a piece of thick steel, a grinder and a drill, basic jig but worked out good! And yes, I'm not planning on doing another set! Cheers

Welcome to the club! You're off with a good start, like you I improvise every steps and it's been a lot of fun and very rewarding. Cheers!

Now that the subframe is back on the car, I started to tackle the brakes. Thanks to Cressa and the fantastic "how to" on the DE calipers with I spent quite some times looking at it today. I've rebuilt the calipers (my first time), I was a little intimidated at first and I don't know why but it was straight forward! Thanks to you guys, I followed the recommendation and bough a rebuilt kit from Big Redd. Next step, I'm fitting the disks brake, calipers, carriers, stainless brake line... And I can't wait to see how it looks! More to come (soon hopefully) it's addictive! Cheers!

Once this was done, I followed by the assembly on the control arms... I pressed Lemförder R32 rear bushings and Phenix Engineering UHMW bushing on the front. Lemförder ball joints. Then assembled these to the subframe. After, I installed the steering rack with new Febi tie rods, Lemförder bellows and OEM steering rack bushing. All new OEM hardware Very happy with the result!

Alright quick update mates! I had a few days off and worked on my car! The reassembly is starting, the boxes of parts are getting low, feels awesome! First I started by installing the bearings and hub in the knuckle. That was not that difficult (my first time) and after the rear bushings, everything seems simple 😉

Well I made it happen! It was not easy, challenging and stressful but it's done. I heated the beam with a heat gun, bushing in the freezer for a couple of days. I used a 7/16" threaded rod, bunch of washers, lots of grease. I broke about 4 rods just on one side, it's pretty nerve wrecking when you think about all that time to change the setup and the bushing is warming up... It's too bad the hole is so small 7/16" is the biggest thing that passes... Anyways pictures for reference if someone one day needs to make a basic DIY tool for that... Cheers!

These are nice numbers and you must definitely feel relieved after that second run... Good for you! I've been debating between 263 or 268!

Wow that's a freakin nice piece/find! Like everyone else, I would love to have one as well... Very happy for you!

Very curious to find out what you have in mind! I'm sure it's going to be good!

Sounds good, keep us posted! I'm going to attempt with my Mickey mouse jig on the weekend, that should be interesting!

Didn't finish my thoughts but that way I would think you wouldn't have to align the steering since you would be leaving it in place. But if you want the steering down, then do what Sean said and good advice about reconnecting the pipes first. It shouldn't be that hard to reconnect, like he said there's a notch on it. Keep us posted!

You can do what Sean said and that should definitely work. I don't think you would have any problems centering it since the 4 bolts that holds the steering rack in place are fixed in the K frame which means it only goes where it needs to go. From the top of the rack, you would have only the 4 nuts to remove. Once the K frame drops, the steering rack will just be "hanging there" if you remove the tie rod ends first

You know, I've just done it not that way since the engine is out already but I did just remove the K frame and wishbone and the whole steering stuff. I never done it the way you're thinking of doing it but I would think it should work. Of course the first thing would be to secure the engine with a crane and maybe a jack underneath just in case. Then, un bolting the steering rack (4 screws) from the K frame if you don't want to mess with that. Remove everything related at the wish bone or straight at the knuckle where the struts are attached if you want the whole thing out ( if not ball joints, tie rid ends). Then I would carry on with the 3 per side bolts that holds the K frame. I would finish by the the 2 rear engine mounts so you're over the frame when it drops. I think it's doable seriously! That's on top of my head right now... Questions?

Damn you!! 😂🤣😅😁 Maybe the PO was smart enough to put some anti seize of the shafts prior 😜 Cheers mate!

I had to do that recently as well. Both originals and so stuck in there that I never been able to remove them. I don't have a press... I tried the "trick" with a torch and putting the axle nut back and slam it with my 10 pounds sledge, didn't even budge... I smashed so hard that the nut broke the filets even if it was all the way in, pretty pissed. I ended up removing the cv from the shaft and bough new outer CV. I had new knuckles and hub so that was ok but may not be the case for everyone... Good luck! I can't help out with a special trick but I can tell you that I will be putting some anti seize before they go back in...

The "c" is definitely softer feeling but I don't know if this is due to age? It may have started at the same length but there's also a change in the design. On the "b" the "walls" are thicker and the opening don't go as far either as they don't pass the holes but with the "c" they go well above. Openings are pointier too compared to the rounded openings on the "b". I've been contacted by gurby28 on the forum and apparently etka as the "c" are for cabrio 2002. What I find strange is my exhaust line is completely original so I don't understand how these ended up there if they were. Also the dealer told me they were replaced from "c" to "b" but I don't see that on etka for the Corrado. Who knows? Not me apparently lol. Might never find out, just hoping I bought the right thing at this point!

Absolutely Keyo the car is in amazing condition to start with! So far, other than those rear carrier hex bolts I never had to fight with any other bolts... I found light surface rust on the welds in the rear beam, the reinforcing bar inside the rear beam had heavy pitting. The K frame had a bunch of small dots from what looked like brake fluid leak from a while ago. And finally some surface rust on one of the engine mount bracket. Beginning of light surface on the axles, control arms, brake dust shields and brackets for the hand brake cables. The picture of parts before powder coat, the shinny spots needed attention. The axles, I wanted them smooth so I put them to bare metal all the way. I wanted to keep the oem ones even though it was a lot of work and not really cost effective ( I bought all new ends and all new oem boots) because I've heard the oem axles are the best and powder coating them required full disassembly. I'm doing this mainly preventative work of what eventually will happen. I want to keep the car and I think like in construction, starting on a solid foundation is key. These were my phase one of powder coat. Yes, the rad shroud and support along with all brackets and anything that needs attention in next (phase 2 is under the bonnet). But ya, the shroud has zero rust! And the support as light surface rust in one corner that's it! I was very surprised! Cheers mate

Thanks to all of you for your positive comments, that keeps me going and indicate me that I'm heading to the right direction. After all, I've never done anything like that, I improvise almost every steps so it feels good. Cheers and stay healthy!