StuartFZR400

Not sure how to bc Here is the thumb: click for larger version (cracked it finally - cheers Phil)

The snow didn't last long; just wish I had more chance to have a peacful drive about that Friday. I hear Wednesday is supposed to bring plenty more though.... and Thursdays smattering:

You guys ever watch that invesitgator prog' - Monk ? :lol: No, no, I agree; nothing on the paint and feet kept on the mats pls; no chocolate.

On the topic of Speed Cameras: Is a speedcamera van allowed to park on the verge of a duel-carriageway that has those little 'No stopping' signs (red circle and cross with blue background) to carry out his work? I was on my way home doing 50-ish in the 50 when a jag wapped past at about 100, and it seemed to flash after he had gone.

or is it a Fireblade? :lol: Has she taken a phone-photo yet??????????

Is it possible to have rounded off a rack tooth? Im not sure how the rado hooks up. Sounds like a replacement of the rack job. You able to get it off ok?

vwdubs - do you mean there is not enough travel and thus feels like there is no suspension. Or are you saying a harder low spring might force the car upwards faster unless you fit a firmer rebound damper? red corrado - you'll get a firmer and bumpy ride from stiffer springs and if you swap those 15" wheels for aomthing bigger, eg 17", then the ride will get even more bouncy (due to a short stiff tyre wall). . My 40mm drop on 17" was like driving a go-kart, brilliant whilst on smooth tarmac but a spine breaker on the usual british country roads. Having said that, I did like the firm ride, the car felt solid. The standard springs and wheels give me a lot of feel but feels loose.

Mat 76 Mine had a 40mm drop on the front and a tad less at the back. All speed bumps were a problem. I could not get into an NCP as the ramps were too steep. I've gone back to standard and find it feels very high up; also you'll notice I said the lower setup had the front down, now it feels like Im pointing upto the sky. With the Standard setup I still manage to scrape the plastic skirt on some inclines, eg works carpark entrance. I'd go for a 20mm drop. However, you'll find plenty of people love a 40-60 drop and get away with it just fine. Just avoid speedhump roads - lol ; oh and buy a small front skirt As for the wheel arches, my 17"'s rubbed a small amount on full lock when low.

Yeh, I take it 0.8 gives a splayed effect Kev ----, / \ surely if thats the way you like it, its ok (within a %) Should go round corners better right? Do you get bad uneve nwear on the inner edge of the tyre usually kev?

That would get rid of , lets say, 30% of bad drivers. Then another 35% knowingly drive badly (and suddenly improve when they see plod) and would up thier standard just for the test and then go back to bad ways. Then the last 35% dont even have a licence !!

They do this down our road. A 40 that was constantly broken. However the local representative gets out there in his bright high visibility jacket and stands there with clipboard, next to this huge board that displays your speed - everyone slows down for it. So when I asked him the speeds, he said they were all below 40. Madness. Then i've noticed in the winter people drive at 25 to 30 in this road, then summer it speeds upto about 45-50 - odd. I fully support low speed limits and keeping to it; speed cameras by schools is a fine idea. More Plods on the roads are the only solution to BAD driving. I swear standards of driving are getting worse; too often its the case Im behind someone, wall back, and notice they're wondering over the white line etc, until a lorry comes the other way. Women in MPV's - oh dont get me started, thats another topic. And wear flat caps :lol:

Sounds mad - I've heard the rumour that not only can Mr White Van Man setup a speed trap for you, but now there is word that joe-bloggs will be able to "do thier bit to help society" by being given a speed trap gun. Can you imagine the mayhem that would cause? People trying to find retrobution; its bad enough the static cameras get burnt. This is one bad idea. Can I video all the bad stuff otehr people do? (I'd run out of tape) additional question below

Presume that your 40mm lower car, with correct wheel offset(?), has no bits hanging off/sticking out in the wheel arch to catch the wheel ?? The clunk noise happens when moving forward/backward or when you are still and move the steering wheel?????? - if its the movement of the steering wheel, try the steering rack as Kev suggests. How? - um, not sure, Im guessing you'd have to disconnect somewhere to move freely - anyone?

Andy - are you volunteering to create/add-to a 'How to' on the knowledge base? - GREAT IDEA http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.p ... Drivetrain

The problem is not a dead battery then. The dizzy cap must be fine. Its not the fuel filter as the problem would be opposite to this. So you're getting low revs or too much fuel when in neutral. One waay of knowing if you're running too ritch and drowning your plugs is to do a plug-chop. Drive hard and then cut the engine; inspect hot little plugs and check the colour/smell. Are you able to tweak the idle revs up a tad??? Does it still do the same thing???

Did you clean the fuel filter? - restricted fuel flow in comparison to a big intake of air (because you've opened the accelerator) will mean you're running weak and it will splutter and die, until you wait a few minutes. Always best to try the cheapest options first (FREE).

Duff - just a hint ; I pour mine into a seperate container to mix with water and keep it like that (5L). Then pour in until it reaches that big black line that says Max. Then give the rad hoses a good squeeze to free air-traps. I've also heard there is another way to avoid air-traps but I cannot confirm this.

I take it the battery is fine though? Does the car re-start immediately? ISV sounds a good idea ; sounds more petrol related. However, can you tell when its going to stall? Are you able to dip the clutch and rev it hard to keep it alive? Surely when changing from 3rd to 1st, it will cough, but letting the clutch out in 1st I presume it keeps going, as if you'd bump started??? Otherwise just check all fuel hoses etc are ok. Then seek further help... sorry I can say more

I did all that before until no more bubbles appeared. Seems I'll need to get teh old CD rom manual out and try to get it up and running, as im sure I read somthing about disconnecting another hose. But thanks anyhow

Temp You've gotta admit ABS and all the otehr horrid 3 letter bull is actually worth having. First off you could say it helps as a safety feature, and whilst you may well drive safely and more so than most, there could be that one occasion that ABS will stop you more safely if a kid ran out in the road. Just a thought. Then there is performance - firstly you maybe able to prove to me that you can do a quicker lap on the track without ABS, but all the other gadgets really do help; why else do F1 develop these things? Now if you're taking that rocco off road, then yup, turn it all off. Safety! you know we're jealous though ;)

Duel carriageway, with central arm-co. Its defo speed-cam for my westbound direction. When I say "flash", its more of a glint. Suppose I'd need a photo to give you an example.

Sat afternoon, Foleshill road Coventry. Lowish dark rado, with 16 or 17". Couldn't nod or flash - was in the Renault. Seen again near to ringroad by gf. I wonder if this was the same one I saw a couple weeks ago. I never see em in Brum

Having changed the top main radiator hose, the rad is giving off steam. Before panicing and thinking the rad has sprung a leak, I remember that this system can get Air Pockets. :?: Does anyone know the procedure for removing this air pocket; Im sure there is some pipe or somthing that can be opened or used to top-up. Picys with arrows help

Walesy - are those 15" on your sig? and what width on the front; it looks massive, but a narrow tyre? No rubbing in the arches? (and the offset is?)

If your oil is 90c or less, then its still not up to working temp; a car typically takes 10mins to reach 100 (for me its been 15mins in this 1c weather. The oil can get as hot as it likes - almost. Most manufacturers won't admit this, but the working temp of a FULLY sinth oil is massively high. Howmany thousands of deg does the crank get? quite. Fully S in theory shouldnt ever need changing, but because of little imperfections of dirt and moisture getting in, its best to do it every year. Keep an eye on water temp - if it starts going over 110, slow down a tad.