StuartFZR400

Im just glad I dont come across you hyper fast ralley drivers enroute to work - eeek :lol: Changing gear mid-bend, next you'll be drifting the back, squaring off the corner to handbrake park up ahead of me, lol For engine care, rather than performance;; as normal gear-changing I can see that if you are driving hard, then chopping it down a couple gears will mean that the re-engaging of the clutch will then mean the forward motion of the wheels+shaft will force the engine revs up, which isn't the best scenario. Whereas your heel&toe is just like bike blipping and means for an easy time on the engine.

GPC are in Luton ? and sell more than whats listed on the site? and post to you anywhere in uk ?

See what I can do Neil; it'll be Mk1 Gti, Mk2 CL, C-16v. Was that from either passenger & driver point of view?

Kevin, do a search on here - click Then read the knowledgebase - click me Then THE buying Check-list, CLICK is the MUST read. But as I say, read around the site using the search; or just pop into the Engine, Drivechain forum sections and see how many people have problems and why; you soon get a feel for what goes wrong and you may even see some prices too. You may have heard of GSF who do cheaper parts mostly.

Impossible on my C; the pedals are not aligned for that. Think I'd need a super flexy big toe or a bendy size 14 foot. The 16v response is so slow its pointless too.

You're absolutely right; I was only having a poke at that review. As for this topic, where do you start; what is "cheap"? Most modern cars are good it seems. I remember my dad paying about £6k for a Golf with 600mile on the clock, but my gf bought a 1.5 Dynamique Megan 4 months old with 3,000m for a measly £7k; only big cost is servicing. There are loads of £2k cars out there that will be low maintenance and some not too bad at £1. Her previous 1.1 mk2 fiesta would've been more economical, with low mileage, low tax, low insurance, low fuel-comp, etc etc. What does he want; saloon/hatch/...

I just drive off to work; it'd be a waste of fuel and Im sure the car is designed to work from cold. It only sits there if Im scraping ice off the windows, as yesterday. Im just glad I now live in a town; before I lived right near a 60mph, and I'd crawl up to speed. Even now I pootle along upto my 30 and Mrs-X gives me jipp as she burries her foot to the floor in her 206/Saxo/Megan/box. Everything on the C feels slow and cold at start off, the gear change is stiff, so I just take is easy; it soon warms up and everything flows nicely by the time I get to the duel-carriageway/M6. The C seems to start warming after 5mins and is fully warm after 15mins. However, Im sure driving must put more pressure on the moving parts than at idle?

Sounds tricky for finding these hoses and fitment too. But thanks guys. I just know if I go into my local VW dealer that I will need to be 100% sure which hoses I need, as they often look at me blankly when I just say I need a XYZ hose, they get all confused. GSF are often more helpful - do they not tend to carry these sorts of hoses? Or do you know of different places that do? Although I presume the proper VAG sort will be well made and correct size and reinforced as required - right? I'll just have to start prodding and look for cracks - just that most of the pipes are old and look crazed. Ideally I'd replace them all, but it seems a costly exercise and tricky, as said. Think I'll pick on a few random pipes and look up how to replace them - just worried some will be under pressure... . . and yes I'll make sure I tighten the new hoses accordingly, without cracking any necks. A lot of these hoses look to be in tight spots... :( Check list so far: · Fuel filter · 2 pipes going over engine on drivers side · hose to regulator

ok, I'll check anything...... anyone got photos / diagrames? Wish it would stop raining so I could scrape around

Rob killed Babi's mother... omg Now what for the C ? what went? ... bumper, plate, lights, rad..?

if its a super quick car you're after, then you want a Fiesta Zetec 1.25, because this lad swears by them.... wtf?

I've always liked them. In silver its looked dull, but one passes me in white - yes that right, white and it looks mean. F*kin noisy car. The regular version wasn't as quick as an Elise but its certainly more refined. Lovely piece of kit; what will Mugen do. You getting one Phil?

jelousy will get you no where. :lol: It didnt sell at £3k; but why would anyone pay that? You can have the same year vw Mk4 turbo for about £4k. Anyone else noticed a Need For Speed Underground - naff plastic - theme these days? Im waiting for some chav to copy the active spoiler... I love it when you ease up at some lights alongside a chav-mobile; thier mates (why are thier cars always full of mates) sit and stare at the C with the shiny BBS; the look of 'gutted' across thier faces - Kodak moment!

On my 16v C, there is a strong smell of petrol on start-up. The smell goes away after a short while, Im guessing the petrol is a small seep and just evaportes off the hot engine area; as the smell is present in the bay too. Now Ive done a search on this and it seems a popular one; but many of you lucky soles seem to find a pipe spewing out pertrol like a fountian - no such luck for me, all smell and no fluid signs. I've checked the wiki too. Now my problem is knowing where to look. Does anyone have a photo or diagrame showing the fuel lines within the engine bay for the 16v-er? Oh and do you have any tips for replacing? Any easy or hard to do? Any of it dangerous? If stevemac is still about, do you have the GSF part codes/prices? Ideally Id replace all of them, considering age. cheers, stu

hmmmmm; Ive got the same thing. Anyone got a guide to petrol hoses and where to find them in the engine bay?

I know mine should do about 400 mile on a tank. But I often fill at the 350 mile mark, as the needle sits in the red for god knows how long

Whats the octane of regular unleaded? I've always used Optimax, and toyed with using Super Unleaded at Esso, as Optimax has gone upto 95p here.

Tell me about it; the old Mk2's sometimes give a little smile or nodd; but the nobrainer Mk4's always try it on - which the old 16v must bow down & take it; just a tad jelous of you VR6's You'd be surprised what tried to go past on the way to work. My pet hate is the people (mostly women) that ease past on the duel carriageway at about 10mph above the limit the cut across your bonnett just before the roundabout (several along this stretch) and slam on the brakes to an almsot stop, to look. Whilst I have to pop into the outer lane so I can trundle through without stopping at the usually empty roundabout; floor it and wait for them to ease past about a mile later; rinse & repeat! You never get raced on a bike ;)

a low mileage 16v would be ideal, so be prepared to pay a higher asking price for the lower mileage. 94 year would be best, less chance of rust etc etc etc. Then service the main items your self. Buy mine; its had the shocks and a vag exhaust put on, so should last years; infact I think I'll keep it - lol

There have been a few cars over the years and you go - whats that? Saw a really odd looking TVR the other day. There used to be a Ferrari Dino that used to live local - that was lovely little motor. Seen a few Honda NSX on the road, much wider than i thought. See too many Astin, Porche, Lamborghini and Ferrari's here at work, in Brimingham; all the modern stuff; theres one Masseratti that parks round the corner. Best time was when a Dodge Viper pulled up alongside us once; rumble... I like to spot the old stuff that most people ignore. My mates gf says its not worth looking at if it doesnt have this years plate on it - wtf.

+ postage , no? lol

Sorry Andy, not much help. They all "look" like this a bit; the Mk2 Golf one did. Are you getting it fitted or fitting your self? Why not ask VAG if you can buy the other type (assuming one does) on the arrangement that you can return it with a full refund if the first one is a successful fit? :?: - just an idea ;) If it didnt fit, I would feel within my rights to retun it and expect a refund.

Finally found what I was looking for, too many threads on oil coolers here - lol So...... Quantum vag stuff is fine and good value but go Silkolene if you can afford it? How about the full synth Gold Quantum?

Campaign - they (Proxies) came on the car (fronts) with what I'd call 5mm. Yet 12 months later and about 5k miles they were down to the wear bar. I'd buy them again at the right price. I ran a low pressure, just over 30psi As said I was happy even in the wet, of which many people say they're no good. They might not be as super grippy as some tyres in the wet but were predictable and 80% good in my oppinion - which is going some considering the lack of tread pattern. Now thats fast wearing to me as I was used to the Michelins on the Mk2 Golf which lasted about 40k miles (front, then 60 on the rear). Only the Fireblade uses a rear tyre that quickly.

Got to agree there. Both on my Golf Mk2 and the 16v Corrado, I did not need to jack it up and thats when the C was 40 lower. The C is very tricky to get your big hands in to get the filter off. NEVER work under a trolley lifted car. The filter shouldn't be over tightened. Newspapers on the floor is always a good idea to save the driveway/lawn. I always use a new washer on the sump plug. And a dab of oil on the rubber ring on the filter helps installation. Keep the old oil container for next time if you want to decant into something. That semi-synth Silver Quantum was good for the Golf, not a single rattle in the 18 year old, 120k mile, car. Always paid about £10 for it at VAG. (although v a g just quoted me £54 for the Gold fully synth)