Supercharged

Locking - please stick to one thread per problem. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=85710

Normal but I would change the oil if you've not done it recently. What grade are you using - could try a 15W in the summer

Knackered Fan switch - the one on the radiator.

I think the front is the same part as on a C anyway... Make sure you use original VAG wishbones, aftermarket ones are flimsy and not strong enough for Corrado's. I would get them sandblasted, them maybe use a spot weld sealer round the edges then zinc prime and then spray with Rustoleum paint which dries as an enamble and is slightly flexible so should last well. Maybe get the bushes pressed in before painting and I would also try and spray them with some 3M / VAG cavity wax when your finished. Here is a subframe I did with the Rustoleum paint

Knackered ignition switch maybe?

I've got both mains and the Li-ion one and although it's very good you will need the mains powered version for something that intensive, 3corsameal's done a great job but like he said it will take ages! I use Suffolk Stove Enamelers (just outside Woodenbridge) for sandblasting / powdercoating stuff and they are very good - not had calipers done though, only carriers but calipers should be fine as long as you tell them what to mask off (ie the piston bore and the threads) - I don't bother cleaning or painting hardly anything now, just give it to them!

Nooo..... we don't drive 'Correrdo's do we you plumbs! The Corrado (which was originally to be named Taifun (Typhoon) except it was already a registered trademark for a GM truck) was derived from the spanish verb Corra which means to run fast or sprint.

Nice, if it happens we could drill a couple of holes in the back of your US-Spec G60 Eric so you can wear a VW badge :)

If you ring VW Heritage or VW customer services they will be able to confirm if it's a Storm or not.

Have you got the original air box still Chris? - Just K&N Induction kits cause the same loss of torque... Like I said above though the BHP figure was also down slightly so it might just be those particuarler rollers or heat soak?

Not sure what you lot are on about - the toque figure is low - surely should be more like 250Nm peak on a VR, remember it's Nm we're talking not Ft lbs! Curves look good and according to the AFR it goes a bit lean from 4.5k which I think is fairly normal... BHP is a bit low too but maybe its just that RR - I wouldn't worry too much and compare the results next time with other Corrado's at a RR day!

All in the instruction manual!

It doesn't get as hot as the normal rail but the feed pipe has to be longer and across the top so defeats the point really... You also loose the fuel pressure after-run switch.

The new VW ones just require a clutch pedal from a Passat - another £17 or so

Don't go by the badges.... The engine code and power in kW is on the service book sticker and in the boot The 150 PD is ARL engine code and is also the only PD that has the FMIC. It should also go like stink too!

The only Golf it's shared with is the G60 as this has the extra mounting points. You need to get a Corrado one really... Other option is to cut and open out the subframe then use heat to free the remains of the bolt then weld back up - bit of a bodge but works fine if sone properly.... If the subframe has a lot of rust though I would change it - seems to be a common issue with Corrado's now they have got to this age.

As above mate - they are behind the glovebox

Could also be the headsheild on the bottom of the catalyst - the noise resonates up the exhaust so sounds like it's coming from the engine bay rather than underneath - fix for this is a massive jubilee clip.

Hi mate - Yeah I have one for my G60 somewhere but never did one for the TDI... It's being painted at the moment so once I have it back looking a bit tidier I will start one I think - it's almost done 100k now too with that engine!

Always use an allen socket and get new bolts to replace.... If you have problems then use the Irwins as stated above.

Yep, much more dificult and involved install than a MK4 as it's a vacumm based system. Fairly easy though if you are running a MK4 based engine in a C like my TDI for example!

Nah - just check every 10-12k - not that bad at all, regular servicing is key! I'm running a 10mm on mine - basically a bolt coming out of the charger with the belt wrapped round it :)

Race Power Motorsport - Sam had loads of issues with them and there is a lot of bad press if you have a google... Like you said, muppets!

Very impressive for a non crossflow head... and fair play to Berno considering the hassle he's had with the engine (...and then he bought the broken half of Henny's one :lol: ) http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.ph ... opic=18598 This is Sam's (Blue Joe's) old engine with Henny's big valve CNC head running a 62mm pulley and 4 branch etc... Vince did as much as he could mapping it but this would be capable of the magic 300bhp Sam was after if only RPM had built the engine to the correct compression ratio! Basically it's setup with virtually no advance - a spacer gasket of ideally different pistons should make this an absolute monster 8) Power output 3k - 135 bhp 4k - 188 bhp 5k - 244 bhp 6k - 264 bhp 6309k - 276.1 bhp (peak) 6776k - 250 bhp (max rpm) Torque output 2k - 188 lbFt 3k - 230 lbFt 4k - 245 lbFt 5k - 250 lbFt 6k - 240 lbFt

It's a funny market - I'd say as they generally get cheaper, good ones are worth maybe more than they were in the last 4-5 years!