Supercharged
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Everything posted by Supercharged
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It could just need an oil pump tbh... I wouldn't drive it though until you know what's wrong or you could do some serious damage! Rebuild engines should include a new VAG pump but I reckon most places will just check and re-use the original or use a GSF one which is usually worse than using the old one!
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Has the oil been changed yet? I would do this and look for any signs of bearing swarf in the oil - maybe fit a magnetic sump plug?
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G60 grinds in reverse ONLY when warmed up?
Supercharged replied to Erickramirez's topic in Engine Bay
When was the oil last changed? I woud change it for the cheaper VW stuff, see if that makes any difference and then maybe try some Redline MT90 -
Its says VRT is not for girls in your sig but come on, you really are a 14 year old school girl aren't you? :D
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LOL - I remember this very thread 6 years ago and wishing I had the £450 to join the group buy - seems like peanuts now! Prices are now £745 from Badger for the 4 stud 305mm kit. The original prices were so cheap becuase the Cupra R's were still under warranty and there were a lot of issues with claims regarding the quality of paint and lacquer peel on the Brembo's. (Like the Lupo wiper sets, VAG keep the prices very low for these parts while the cars are new)
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Gonna say got mine from TPS but had to buy 5 metres as they don't keep 'workshop stock' like the actual dealers...
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Would a dodgy brake comp. cause increased brake travel?
Supercharged replied to kvwloon's topic in Drivetrain
It can yeah but if you can here it squeek and it just passed an MOT then it must be working as must the rear calipers I would hope! As above when was the fluid last changed? -
To be honest, anything over 10k miles is good going for a bbt engine!
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I just don't fit anything non geniune now, it's a false economy.
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Fla - just go and buy an eezibleed kit mate, you'll have in sorted in 5 minutes!
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Pressure bleed it mate - far easier... Just hook up Eezibleed and open the slave nipple, let about 250ml of fluid thru and you should be fine. On a VR you shouldn't have a nipple on the master but if you have the earlier setup and it works then no point changing it... you could open that one too if the bite point does not feel right - this just gets rid of any small amount of air sitting at the end of the cylinder.
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That part above is for fronts on base suspension models (not VR6) and it's only worth buying genuine VW ones. They are £21 +vat from TPS and you need a 10 tonne press to fit - ie take the hub carrier off and take to a garage. You will also need a full camber setup doing after changing them. Also worth getting the hubs blasted and painted while they are off if you have time -
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I wouldn't buy reps tbh... I'd get anything genuine BBS or if you want bigger wheels then look at Audi's with the same fitment.
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Change the relay - may be the original one!
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You just need the Tool from VW made by Hazet - halfords also do a copy of this made by laser - not as good but will do the job!
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Yep, always buy new ones as VW recommend.
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Yep - common point of failure on a G60 and cab be potentially very dangerous so anyone who smells fuel should check this immediatly... All 3 pipes should have been changed at least once by now! I'd also keep an eye on it if you used standard fuel hose as the cheap stuff does not seem to last all that long as the G60 engine bays get so hot..
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It did indeed, no advisories which is always a bonus He's been too busy driving it all day to post on here I think!
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I didn't realise you two were brothers but it all makes sense now!
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That WOT switch tells the ECU to look at the lambda signal so I assume something around that area is not right... You should be able to unscrew the lead to fit the sensor...
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Do you do a lot of reversing? :)
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Those were the days! My first one was 97 or 98 I think down at the TRL 8)
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Hmmm - no, mine you have to leave strugleing and it just sorts itself out... if you try and drive off it kangaroo's though. You need to check the Blue temp sensor and wiring, thottle switches and making contact, vac leaks, earths, idle screw no coming out etc... Maybe clean the ISV also as this is the component that should keep it running in this situation. Is it deffo running on 4 when this happens?
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At 15 years old I'd be looking at replacing the lot now, all the hoses and all the plastic outlets. IMO it's the only way to do it unless you want to be constantly fixing parts and changing coolant.
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Very similar and probably compatible... You might find the 2.0 one uses banjo bolts on the lines where the older one uses union nuts.