krnau

great, thanks! btw, if I used et25 rims... how many milimeters would the train width increase?

What's the ET for the sebring wheels? Et35? thanks!

Sounds simple, but I can see this going horribly wrong! the only way it can go wrong if if you put the diode wrongly, and the worst thing that may happen is that high beam turns on when you switch to low beam. it would be a matter of puting it the other way :)

you only need two diodes (make sure they are for about 30 or 40 AMPs!). then, one for each headlight. you need to put the diode so that when high beam is ON, current flows to the low beam. that's all. you'll need a polymeter in order to work out which of the 4 wires is the high beam bone, and so for the low beam. job done in 1hour or so 8)

electric tape joining the screwdriver and the screw. bolt it in, pull back the screwdriver and the tape will come to you with it :) job done where are those screws btw? I think i don't have them in my car. i've removed the clocks about 20 times and I've never seen them (unless they are the ones on the top of the speedo surround, attached to some metal thingys that are attached to the dash itself and, btw, one of them is broken in my car so i don't have that screw and the surround keeps rattling.). the undersigned, thread hi-jacker 8)

:( I'll try to upload a picture tomorrow :) thanks

Hi there, I've spotted a rust spot in the tailgate's glass' rubber seal, on the bottom-left of the rubber. It rained 5 days ago, and yesterday I pulled "a little" the rubber up and there was water still coming out of it. Should there be draining holes in there, or ... should there be any water????? thanks :)

Yeh, they do... then it will be a matter of lubricattion I think... sorry, can't think of anything else..

I would gently spray wd40 in the TBmechanism, just to try :) if you push the tb against the microswitch.. do they get in contact??

can't you move the switch even further ?

This happened to my KR too. You should try to adjust the idle switch. It's attached to the TB with 3 little screws IIRC. Unbolt them and move the microswitch until you see it gets in contact with the other part :) a 5minutes job, that (at least for me) allowed using A.C. in the city/traffic jams, etc. without the car stalling :lol:

no idea, sorry :S thanks for yer reply :)

:lol: :lol:

it happened once to me as well :lol: since then, I always leave the expansion tank cap where the bonnet's "hook" engages the chassis (bad description, useless words, but you get the idea :nuts: ) in order not to forget

it's 99% probable that there is a split/cut wire in the clocks harness. this wire is the one that takes the signal to the indicator green led light in the clocks. I found the easiest way was to remove that led :lol: :lol: as a temporary fix (temporary fix = lifetime fix :nuts: )

I'll get brand new oem mounts next time. I don't know about this chap's ones but I've tried several makes and I've had to replace the rear (biggest) engine mount twice this year, gearbox one once, and 3 front ones .... all of them new, but not oem. IMO, cheapish engine mounts are only a temporary fix

yep, I got one of these too. Despite fitting OK, it looks like it's 1 or 2mm loose...

see the pic below Sin título.png[/attachment:3vejecn9] where I did the yellow mark, I have a cap in there with nothing plugged into it. what's supposed to be there?? the green mark shows a thread, to which nothing is attached in my engine. is it ok?? and second thing, I can't manage to see the engine part number (or 1.8 or whatever) because of all the pipes that are near to it... wasn't there supposed to be a sticker in some other place or whatever? thanks!!!

first thing to look at, and it's obvious but just to say it.. look at the car papers and check the engine is a 2.0. There are people trying to sell 1.8 16v clios with the williams look (body color, interior, etc). early willis are more expensive due to the numeration, but who matters anyway? look for one with oem rims. the rims only are sold at about 1.000€ (at least, in Spain). if it has aftermarket rims, then you can try to get a discount !!

erm why bother? :shrug: don't get that hot in UK. plus adds weight! it would be useful in cold winter as well and doesn't add that much weight I think :D

a golf mk2 one should fit to early corrado I think. why not update to climatronic anyway???

the wire that you want to rewire goes from the temperatur sensor to the back of the fusebox's connector G2, pin 1(black / green). then, looking (again) at the back of the fusebox, connector U1 , pin 1 (balck / white), takes this signal to the clocks megaplug,pin 17. apart from this, you can find new speedo voltage regulators, but I can't remember where from :( maybe a quick google "voltage regulator golf speedo" shows you the answer :) I hope you get it fixed :wink:

i've been experienceing the same since I bought my car 3 years ago. I've replaced -oil temp sender -clocks -wiring from sender to clocks and stilll the same :pukeright:

mine used to do it (last time I checked it was 1 or 2 years ago). if I locked using i.e. passenger's door pin (or door lock with the key), it had to be opened through the same door; otherway, what you described happens. It may be another good point of owning a corrado, like the only one window rolling at a time

what to say... I love corrados... :grin: