g0ldf1ng3r

my pleasure Hasan good luck & give me a shout if you need :)

price will be one of your main factors what budget have you in mind? also, when you say 'handling' what are you after? IE as close to OE as possible, a nice smooth ride & no desire to adjust height or the ability to set ride height & damper settings?

ha ha ha im glad to see you haven't lost your sense of humour m8! :D

can we change your thread title to the below pls wayne White VR6 in Windy Yorkshire! :) - Diet advice now included free of charge ;) PMSL

sounds good in principle wayne BUT even a mint low miler is likely to need lots of £'s spent on it if it is low miles, even if very well maintained, things like rubbers on running gear, gaitors, rear beam bushes etc etc all deteriorate with lack of use unless you buy one that has been sat in an air conditioned, humidity controlled bubble & greased & lube'd every few months old cars will ALWAYS need something replacing / refreshing plus, as you have experience with this one things can look ok on the surface but when you delve in there may be bodge's galore as i say i understand your predicament & empathise with it m8

hi m8 have a look for trimsport in the suppliers section on here, or google them they are developing a carbon rear number plate surround & already have several other carbon products

MMMMM now that's the best post you have put on here for ages!! ;) lol well done on the weight loss, savour your treat m8 :D

i guess we all learn from experience wayne. next time viewing a car take a mechanic with you or spend more time looking at it / underneath it than driving it ;) seriously though, if you really are in it for nearly 6K then surely it has to be kept rather than flushing that money down the drain. yes it may take more money to get it to the condition of a 6K rado BUT lots of the hard work has been done already. it would be very easy to sell this one, wait a while to get over the shock, buy a replacement & then find it needs most of what you did to this one done as well

blimey riley! you aint had much luck with this motor have you wayne :( as chuggs said, by the time you're done most of it will be new I wouldn't be considering selling with all that you have put into it & done m8 - will you seriously be able to cover all (or most of) your costs with a sale? EDIT: you are not alone in that train of thinking though m8. having just got the valver back on the road it needed a hell of a lot more than I was expecting & I am really not looking forward to the bill for it. especially when I still haven't had the bill for the VR's fuel pump issue & the VR is back in for an oil leak fix despite it being looked at last time. thus ive been having similar thoughts to you but with all that time & money spent on it & the fact I regretted selling the valver so badly last time i don't know if i could do it

ha ha ha don't kick yourself m8, its easy done & we are all culprits lol glad you got it all working & you know what to look at if any issues in the future

cool, glad it made sense head unit will be ok for your door speakers & rears if you have them ive not had component speakers before, IE where you have a 2 way speaker & a separate tweeter, so unsure of their connections but would hope/imagine they still only take up 2 channels for the front & leave you 2 channels for the rear IIRC you would set the amp into 'mono' mode as the sub does not need a stereo feed & I think it would put itself into 'single channel' rather than 'dual channel' depending on what you connect to it. IE if you only connect the RCA leads & set to mono & do not connect any other outputs what amp is it? I can check for a diagram online do you have rear speakers or using the factory 6*4's? I have tried various setups over the years of rado ownership & other cars & though I know some people do not like cutting their parcel shelf audio output really does need 6*9's in the rear. personally I always re-trim my parcel shelf with proper acoustic carpet, not the cloth as its too thin & sags over time, & like the look it gives if you run decent door speakers with just a sub then you may get the bass you wish for but you are going to loose out majorly in mid range have you got an amp fitting kit I mentioned? I think they may include a basic connectivity diagram the passive crossovers simply connect between the head unit output & the speaker itself. those on my front kappa's are hard wired to the speaker & are slotted behind the door pod with some double sided tape

oooo cheeky things ahead mic!!??

hi m8 difficult to say, more info would help..... what RMS output has the head unit per channel? what RMS rating are the door speakers & tweeters & are they a 'component' setup? have you any rear speakers & what RMS rating? what RMS rating is your amp in each mode? the above info will allow you to decide if the head unit is powerful enough to run the door speakers (& rears if reqd) OR if the speakers are high enough rated to cope with being run off the amp TBH unless you're running crazy kit id probably say option 1 is more than suffice m8 EG in mine I have sony head unit with 4*52watt RMS which I use to power my front door infinity kappa's, 50w RMS each, & infinity kappa 6*9's in the rear, 110w RMS each. I then have a small sub running off an amp regarding wiring, it depends on your amp / sub location (IE both in the same area). for ease my amp is screwed to my sub box, which doesn't need securing as its so damn heavy you will then need RCA cables to go from head unit to amp & also a 'remote' wire from head unit to amp, this is what turns the amp on when the head unit turns on power the amp via a fused power lead to the battery & find a nice earth for the amp in the boot (you can get an amp fitting kit from Halfords etc which includes chunky power & earth leads etc) then connect the sub leads to the amp & bass is your aunty in terms of setup it will depend on what filters you have & if you are using passive or active crossovers? have you ever done a complete sub install? (sorry if that is a naïve question Hasan) hopefully that will make some kind of sense of it all EDIT: sorry if I have repeated anything, I didn't read the thread in full

glad you scratched your itch m8 :)

^^^^ what he said :D

nice little intro, welcome aboard :)

thanks for the offer Kip I have to wait for my pending mechanic bills to arrive & cleared before I spend on anything else

happy to help m8 :) im not sure if KUR2Y does or not but I was planning on trying to see if he is still active on here & drop him a PM as I need another loom for my valver if I hear off him I will let you know

oh dear wayne - hope you got home ok & its not an expensive fix

ive said it before but im sure this is why KUR2Y always used 3 relays in the looms he produced, it was for failover on the looms he made if a single relay fails then you still retain one side of your lights - kind of a 'get home' thing if they fail whilst out on the road if im correct in my thinking he put one relay in for each side for dipped & normal beams & then a single one to do the high beam for both sides

have you changed the relays? normally when an uprated loom is involved no headlights is due to a failed relay they are only a couple £ each, id change them just to be sure I had to do this very task not so long ago edit: or, if the OEM plugs & loom has not been cut etc, disconnect the uprated loom & reconnect the factory loom plugs & check the lights if they don't work then you know it is not the uprated loom

ha ha good one Tan lol :)

ha ha I picked up on that 'not so smoothed' bumper too Kev - looks frickin awful!!!!!

no probs. I think it has something to do with the 'open circuit fuel mapping' oir whatever the correct term is. I recall vince saying that you can get running problems when the battery is on its last legs as the ECU loses the fuelling info once the car is turned off if the battery hasn't enough juice in it also - I know that my VR in particular does really not like running for just a few seconds. IE if you start it & then turn off after a very short time. if done a couple of times successively my word the engine runs rough as a bag of nails whilst the ECU sort itself out. this last happened when it went to the body shop a few years ago & when I collected it I got half a mile down the road & thought 'WTF they have killed my car'. I stopped & turned off, left it for a few seconds & then restarted & all was well. I had forgotten to tell the body shop to not press accelerator when starting & to let it run for a few minutes each time I want to post a video to show the sound when I start mine as ive always really liked it....it really does do a 'chicka-chicka, vroom' lol

now that is a great piece of advice & very pragmatic