g0ldf1ng3r

Thanks Jim, that sounds like the one. Ive mailed vince to ask if he switched it into the new pipes but wanted to see if i could find the part name in case he wasnt sure what i was referring to. Interesting that you put one on after but didnt notice a difference, if ive read correctly i think the valve helps avoid high pressures building in the hose so maybe it wouldnt be noticed unless it failed.

Am hoping someone can shed some light on a query for me. Im sure ive read on this forum that when you change the cooling hoses on a VR there is a small part which needs to be taken out of an old hose & put in the new one. however for the life of me i can not find the thread, either by searching on here or on google, as i wanted to know the part name. I think it might be a pressure valve or something. Reason being that stealth have recently installed all new roose motorsport hoses on my motor & i wanted to check with vince if this part was done thanks in advance to all

:D

Do i recall someone mentioning that you should never use a rad seal type product on a VR as there are very small water channels that aid the block cooling & can easily become blocked.....or something like that EJ - that pic cracked me up ;)

excellent, enjoy bullfinch! with a remap they make a great difference under foot. im just waiting for vince to call to say the teething issues are sorted on mine :D

nail / head there m8!! ive just had a BMC on my VR & holy mary mother of g*d it now sounds amazing :D

Byrd - interparcel.com can ship to outside of UK As an example for you i got them to collect & deliver 4 BBS solitudes, at approx 16kg each, from somerset to midlands & it was £34, might be worth a look m8 :)

Hi Rog If you PM oilman on here he works for opie oils & has a vast knowledge on oil. I sent him my vehicle details, specs, mileage, brief service history etc & he recommended an oil & explained why ;) Also, thought not directly related to magnetec i found this post about oil viscosity http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=83576&highlight=oilman

hi robo have you got these actively advertised anywhere?

If only they did......then we wouldnt need new alloys just to fit bigger/better brakes :(

Welcome :) Your english & spelling is better than some 'natives' so dont worry ;) lol As Jim said, pictures say a thousand words, hopefully you can post some soon

Ha ha that sentence echoes thoughts of many of us on here :( lol

Oh bugger!! Ive just had stealth fit new roose motorsport pipes when they did my head rebuild.....& i used the jubilee clip set they sell for the pipes.......now im wondering whether i should have asked vince to use the OE clamps :s pants :(

Indeed we were Rog. Fortunately there are lots of helpful people on here :) I would highly recommend one of the bentley workshop manuals, they are great for everything except the engine (as that is for the US spec AAA lump)& are a brilliant guide when trying to get things apart good luck

Have you tried bump starting it? if it starts then likely to be your starter motor but if not it will be a case of figuring out if it is a fuel or spark issue....or hopefully not something more serious IIRC there has been a recent thread on here about testing if its fuel or spark issue

No probs Jim :) probably worth mailing ARP themselves & pose the question

link to the post i mention in case you want to read http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/255594-fyi-reusing-arp-head-studs.html

I found the below post on dsmtuners.com for you jim.....hopefully it will help FYI: Reusing ARP Head Studs Many of you may already know this but for those who are unsure I contacted ARP yesterday regarding how you can determine whether or not it is safe to reuse the head studs. I had a phone conversation with on of the tech support guys who told me that unlike the rod bolts (which you can measure to see if the amount of stretch is within allowable limits) the recommended criteria for the head studs is a subjective one. If the stud feels tight when you reach the recommended torque specification then it is o.k. If it feels soft or spongy at this torque value then it should be replaced. They subsequently sent me an email as well reiterating the same thing: "As long as you have not exceeded the recommended torque for that fastener, and it takes the torque and does not feel spongy, the stud should be fine." I just want to emphasize how important it is to adhere to ARP's recommended install instructions and torque specifications. Hopefully this will be helpful to some of you guys.

No m8, it went ahead but there were very few numbers & people didnt call vince early enough with their payment details. Fortunately Vince was kind enough to still let the couple of us who had them take advantage of the RR setup & fitting costs

cool PM sent :)

She has replied to say 'yes please, thank you very much' :D i will drop you a PM regarding details thanks again nick, they should be great for a set of winter wheels for her storm

Thanks Nick, much appreciated!! i will confirm either way as soon as the gf replies :)

Hi nick my gf may want these. ive just sent her a message & will confirm via this thread as soon as she has replied can i say a yes but TBC please? :)

from their site.... Opening hours: 08:30-17:30 Mon-Fri / 09:00-13:00 Sat :)

:'( damn it i want my white valver back!!!!