g0ldf1ng3r

Glad all is electronically ok. I recall on an install in a previous car where i had lots of engine noise through the sub i fitted a small & IIRC cheap crossover as the can help reduce the interference - it worked a treat & having read this thread i really should fit 1 to my rado lol

When you ran your cables did you run the power for the amp down 1 side of the car & then your speaker cables down the other? It can cause inteference if you run them close together

Great info thanks!! Any idea where the last group buy was purchased from as the prices you state are much better? I have recently discussed engine work with Vince @ Stealth & he told me about the hoses in the link below as i am thinking of replacing them during the work. He has taken delivery of them & said the initial feel is the quality seems very good. Im hoping he will give further feedback once he has fitted them - i think they are for a forum member from here IIRC http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120902984610?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D120902984610%26_rdc%3D1

:D

Thank you for this link!! It does state a possible as 'Improper surface cleaning or preparation. Tiny specs of dirt left on the surface can act as a sponge and hold mosture' It seems like finding a painter who will do an exact & proper job is like trying to find the holy grail :(

I have similar on my bonnet which was only resprayed at a body shop 18 months ago - i was told they had taken it back to metal during the prep from my experience with helping at my friends camper van business if a panel is not properly wiped with tack rag literally just before spraying, or if the spray booth is not completely dust free, small particles can get trapped under the paint & they will eventually (times can vary greatly) work their way to the surface & create such bubbles/imperfections I have been putting much thought into taking it back to the body shop & trying to get them to rectify it but i fear that i will be given a cold shoulder as i paid cash Plus im kinda loathed to take it back there as there were quite a few things they did not do despite them being agreed & i know from personal experience that they cut corners (EG they didnt bother taking off the passenger door handle & thus the paint under it is clearly stippled) i hope to carry out a complete respray myself once the van business can cope with my rado in the corner for a while & i have a 2nd vehicle - as i think this is the only way i can guarantee the quality of finish i want

Parts galore there m8 - what fun ahead :D

Thats a good mention Jim - i took a look when i saw the updated post but unfortunately for an evening meet on a school night it is a bit too far. If it was a sunny weekend it would be a nice run there tho I will find out when they start & try to put a new thread up with plenty of notice & maybe we can get a small crowd attending from here - everyone is welcome & there is normally a good variety of motors present :)

Greetings :) Where are you located? & pics are always good to see!

Excellent another 1 in the midlands :D There classic car meet in Alcester [usually on a sunday mid-morning] will be starting up again soon, i normally go with my friend in his VW camper van from vantasialtd Would anyone be interested in attending a meet there if i put a thread up on here.....hopefully with plenty of notice?

Ooooooo staggered schmidt modern lines!!! :D :D :D Mmmmmm i want them sooooo bad but they are expensive & money is being saved for engine work/subtle upgrades

IIRC the problem with rado headlights is due to the way the factory headlight loom works......in that the voltage has to travel from battery to switch in the dash & then back out to the headlights - which results in a drop of voltage & dimmed headlights I too live in an area where 5 mins drive in any direction & i am on country lanes & i can honestly say i couldnt believe how much of an improvement the KUR2Y loom & new (but not massively expensive) bulbs produced on normal beam nevermind high beam!!! :D Indeed care has to be taken when fitting the loom to prevent any rubbing of the cable on body work etc (thus reducing the risk of any shorting & possible fires) & it is well worth some time taken with insulation tape around the connectors once fitted but the difference is massively visible! (forgive the pun i couldnt resist lol)

If you look in the supplier section on here swampy is now providing braided brake lines try here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?51698-Braided-brake-lines&highlight=brake+line :)

It might be helpful to mention I have had a good chat with Vince recently & received a quote from Stealth in the past few weeks. It does however include a head rebuild, which Vince has explained includes new guides, seals and cam followers & valves and valve seats get recut and re-lapped in, at the same time & the below is what i was quoted...... 1: Head overhaul, chains, tensioners, cam followers, clutch £1625.00 inc vat Vince was very knowledgeable with sensible advice & it may pay you dividends to give him a call

Welcome!! KUR2Y on here makes them & i can vouch for how much of an improvement they make & excellent quality!! :D

Where abouts are you located as there may be some specialists in your area? EG Stealth racing in banbury & DG Autotech near Stourbridge ;)

Very good point raised DriverVR6 - ive noticed that my mpg can go down by around 3-4 mpg on the trip MFA if my tires are several PSI off what they should be

Ha ha & just you wait until you get to listen to the VR go from grumble to growl to full on roar!! i barely turn my stereo on due to that soundtrack :D lol

I too had trouble with the bolts but after fighting a loosing battle with them to begin with i gave up & had a quick trip to local auto suppliers. i got 1 of the correct size allen key's that have a socket end so it fits into a socket wrench......makes the job so much easier with the right tools lol :D

Indeed, definitely worth replacing your carrier bolts as you never know what state the old 1's will be in if you have to wrestle them out ;)

Thanks Steve i will take a look & have a read :)

from experience its definitely around the 5.5L mark & its good advice regarding put about 5 in & then check levels until correct If you are unsure what oil is best then you can send your car spec etc to oilman from opie (on this forum) & he will recommend one for you....which is exactly what i did ;) also, he wrote a very detailed post on here about the differences between synthetic & mineral oils - which is well worth a read

I too was staggered!!! in fact at the time i questioned my mechanic but he had measured the disc width & according to the recommendations they were both on the wear limit. FYI If i cant do a job myself, or dont have the time, there is only 1 mechanic i let work on the rado (call me paranoid i know lol) - which is a friend of the family & who my family have used for over 20 years, thus i very much trust what he says I record mileage & dates etc for pretty much every bit of work or maintenance etc that is done & the discs & pads brought direct from my local stealer were fitted at 119905. The mileage was on 141857 when they needed replacing i was always under the impression that discs would outlast pads maybe 2-1 or 3-1 but i have heard that due to a lower carbon content (IIRC) discs dont last like they used to.......unfortunately like most things in the throw away society which has been created i guess lol

good luck!! id be keen to hear how you get on as ive been considering doing similar with some 15" speedlines i have :)