1xshaunx1

Yes mate

Mine were about 1620-1640mm. Both the same, it has to be balanced with the same length of cable from the end stop, or the pull mech gets really unbalance. That’s why it’s best to do both cables at the same time.

I’d pull the switch out and check the wiring going to the fuse box from the switch. It may be it’s wiring might be damaged and arcing onto others.

Finally got around to finishing my rear brake renew and upgrade. carriers callipers discs bearings pads and now handbrake cables. decided to use the TWR ones. Febi ones were very similar, same ends but a metal part where it slides into the tubes before going into the body TRW GCH1656 £50 delivered for the pair, as you require two of the same part Febi 14274 £20 delivered for the pair. To be honest I just wanted to compare the two brands and see if they were both the correct length. The both seemed pretty much the same as the original one that came off

Looking sharp now👍 That banana went back on better than I thought it would too.

Looks good 👍 but still needs some windscreen washer liquid topping up 😂😂

A worry for us all. But I think this is the exception not the rule. Others my say different but I’ve not noticed this being a problem area on current or previous cars, but definitely worth a check.

I opened the garage door last weekend 😂😂

I’ll pop round at the weekend if you want and you can look at mine n see if we can work it out.

I was thinking it would be the shorter ones and the longer ones for Passat, Vento etc

Are the rear abs sensors 1130mm or 1285mm long. Looking to change my stubs and get it all ready first but there seems to be 2 lengths available. Any ideas anyone.

Look what the wife found down the side of the wardrobe. I must have put it there for safe keeping and forgot. She only found it because of getting ready for the decorators. No more unfortunately

I have a blind doe.

It does look nice and tidy. Good look with the commissioning 🤞. Can’t be much more to stop you.

I’ve just done my rear calliper upgrade and used about the same amount maybe a bit more. Drivers rear seemed to have more air in it too. Used a pressure bleeder that uses 20 psi out of a tyre.

It’s took a while, but it just come to me because of what you are trying out Keyo. I've never tried to test my seats heating, tested seat switches and power movements 9 years ago. Never even bothered me as it lives in a garage now and before mostly summer miles but not many. So heated seats hasn’t been a priority. It is now sometimes this forum creates missions

Certainly looks better and I think you’ll find they don’t give you lower back ache after a while like the standard ones. Vince powered mine to the fuse box although the heated bit isn’t connecting in yet. What bit are you missing ?

You need to try and run it with a good evu first then I’d be tempted to let JMR have a look. He seems to be the 4 pot/G60 man.

Any updates on this, was it a bargain ?

The car is in a garage not a restaurant and recovery drivers are allowed and need work, all involved just need to practice distance and self protection, which in turn keeps others safe.

Oh Keyo, all this extreme negativity, he didn’t want advise on a concourse show wining, body job cost estimate 😂😂😂😂

Can’t see the effect on unfortunately

Totally agree, about £1250 for the seats and the same for the car. But you’d be hard pressed to achieve that in one go in Ireland.

If I’d have tried that it would have fried it and never worked again. 😂

Certainly reads like it’s worth saving. Be gentle with your sunroof when opening for the first time in ages. Make it go up, clean and lube the seal Before ! you try to open it backwards as the seal can stick the sunroof to the roof body stuff breaks when you try to go backward first. Never be tempted to just keep adding water to a coolant leak you must put proper coolant in as it can cause its own problems. Good luck, you’ll have to keep us updated with your progress, insurance is probably cheaper and fuel definitely is since you last had a blast.