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The switches look slightly different early/late but are the same size so will fit I’m sure. Mine is the other way, later dash in a 92 VR6 but everything is the later type including switches and heater controls. As long as it fits and looks good, only a Corrado anorak would know the difference I guess.

The barrel doesn’t lock to on, it can Slip back, so the engine stops like running out of fuel or immobiliser activating, switch on the end of the barrel has the same effect if faulty.

I’d agree with Keyo about the scanner. You’ll need a obd1 adaptor aswell more than likely, they come in at a hefty £2-£3 off fleebay too. Could also be fuel pump relay giving up intermittently or when warm. Good luck chap.

Black crinkle paint looks good on the inlet manifold. They can do that at Stealth. You’ll see the image on the full site if doesn’t come up.

If it’s really bad it’s one of the items you can still get new through heritage. The radiator mount crossmember that the radiator sits on and the engine mount crossmember are good ones to get done while it’s all in bits too.

I’ve had a bog standard G60, 2 standard VR6’s and now a Turbocharged VR6. I had the G60 when it was 3 years old and 19k miles, I had it a year. The standard VR6’s were older but proved more reliable over time than the G60 and more fun. The Turbo one I have now is something else, drives like normal VR6 if you want it to, you’d never know, give it some beans and you reach legal speeds limits in a flash. It all depends what you want the car for, how often you’re going to drive it can be a factor, average mpg in a VR6 27, VR6T 20mpg G60 was more. But for £5k should get you a descent standard VR6 or G60, VR6T or modified G60 for that money may buy trouble. These cars are old, mines 27 years old, no matter what you buy, if you use it stuff breaks or stops working as it should. You don’t own a Corrado and expect it do 10k miles without something costing half a leg especially if your not on top of the todo list. Suspension , bushes, bearings, brake lines, bla bla. Same as any car out of warranty, but these are over 20 years old, but that’s what it’s all about, half the fun is the chase and the reward when it’s sorted. Good luck with what ever you decide on, at least you have a budget to go look at something not covered in rust or that needs a complete tear down to fix and make good.

You need to turn the ignition on and bridge the 3 pin plug on the bottom of the radiator as described in the guide. If you don’t get the 2 stages to come on as in the guide it’ll be the wiring or the fan control unit where all the wiring goes to. The yellow sensor is for dash temp and after run. Stage 3 is off the black plug in the thermostat housing. Bridging the plug does work as it’s how I diagnosed my sender being duff as my stage 1 doesn’t work but when I bridge the plug it comes on great.

I agree with coolant temp up before oil temp 100%. If it’s taking too long for coolant temp to rise could be thermostat is stuck open so water is going around all the system from cold and will take longer to get to normal running temperature for coolant.

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Try typing “Speed clips and bolts” Into eBay, that should bring up the type of thing your after.

I’m not a professor on sunroofs and god help me I never will be be but from what I’ve seen of broken ones it’s usually to do with a cast chromed zinc alloy part that looks like a disformed donkeys leg to start with. One of those breaks when it jams and a bit of leg falls out and things start grinding, buggered.

Lol it ain’t just the cars

He broke his header tank the week before it’s a nightmare everything is old.

Love it. Get ready though, Corrado love is an addiction.

Dealer still does them but pricey.

When you bridge the plug the fans should come on but not as fast and boomy, bridge the other wire and should get faster, if it’s doing that it’s got to be the sensor as the rest of the system is doing what it should. Maybe the switch over temps on that sensor are different to what they should be. If it’s not doing the above things with fans when bridging then your problem is between the plug and the fan control unit including this.

You tried this an it works by bridging its got to be the sensor. Where you get it from

You should be able to see the digital readout in daylight clearly, the lcd display is nothing to do with the bulbs you just need them when it’s dark. Should be like looking at your old Casio back in the day

Are you on about the ones near the engine at tha back of the bumper. If so they screw into a curved special bracket I think the bolts have a 10mm head on them. I got one of the brackets last year from heritage. Lilfuzzer on heat will no doubt have some of the bolts they aren’t your average shape or look.

Did you try bridging the plug that goes to the sender in the rad like the guide suggests. If your Uber loud fans are comming on at 110 degrees ish on you dash water temp and nothing before then it would suggest there is something wrong with that sensor or the wiring connected with it from the radiator.

They always come on together they are joined by a belt only one is powered, just at different speeds depending on temperature. They are loud at full pelt. Look in the definitive cooling guide in the engine section for a very good write up detailing sensors and temps.

ivE found they are pretty difficult to get them to stay in once they have come loose. I cleaned mine out best I could without pulling anymore out that seemed a good fit, let it dry out in the garage for a week. Put some Por15 in a syringe with a fat needle and very carefully injected the length of the rubber while pushing the rubber in, wiping excess off straight away. Put masking tape over the top to keep it tight and left it for 24 hours . No problem since. Hope this helps

Finally fixed my dash clocks lighting so I can now see everything at night. Also while I was in the area fitted a fuse to the earth on the headlight switch. Marvellous

When you replaced the pump and the filter did you also change the relay under the dash, if not I’d try that next and the ignition switch on the end of the barrel

Is that a typo. 185 degrees for water or oil is very bad for the engine.